wolf pup weight distribution hitch

[K2Kevin]

Originally Posted by TheGerman

Don't take this personal but that is bad advice all the way around. While there are a few dealer techs that have a clue, most of them don't as you can see from the dozens of threads on here.



The front end of the tow vehicle should not be lower than unloaded, at least not in this millenium. Ford's towing guide (and I don't even own a Ford) is excellent explaining the front axle load restoration (FALR) and even for a big truck like the F-350 they recommend to recover about 50%. E.g. if the front rises 1" from the trailer tongue weight, the WDH only needs to get 1/2" back down.



The challenge is not to get the rig level and the weight numbers right, you could do that with I-beams instead of spring bars. The challenge is to keep the rig under control when you drive down the highway on a rainy day and some idiot forces you to swerve. Too little rear axle load and it will jack knife.

I did word it wrong. I meant the front end should lower when WDH is engaged to attempt to return the front end back to unloaded height.

And you’re right about dealers not knowing, I was fortunate to have very good service people that knew the system and setup very well.

[Boomerweps]

Looks pretty level now, TT & TV.
You adjusted it from the WDH manual, it's within specs. If it feels right towing, I'd leave it there.
Now check it out on some CAT SCALES, with and without the load bars attached, so you can measure how much weight is being distributed to the TT axle & front axle of the TV, and how much is removed from the drive axle. Mine only moved 220# to the front & 80# to the TT axle. I was loaded for camping. My TV & TT are very level. I'll take some pics next time I run over to the high school to attach my load bars (TT would drag the sewer outlet going out the drive with WDH fully setup ;(.

[WolfPup2018]

Thanks a a lot! Yea it’s a challenge not to hit the sewer line for sure. Seems that every driveway is a risk point. I’ll have to weight it at some point.

[Jessiesgirl]

Originally Posted by WolfPup2018

I lowered the hitch on the shank one hole, added 2 washers, so 6 washers now, raised the sway bar brackets. According to the manual I was under adjusted and needed to shift more of the weight to the front axels of the TV.

This did bring the front end down a bit and reduced the sag significantly. The trailer is almost level and the front end is only 1/2” higher than no trailer connected.

Should I lower the hitch one more hole or do you think this is acceptable ?

Thanks in advanced for the guidance!

Your set up is the exactly the same as I'll be running. How does the 4runner do pulling the wolf pup? Any tips?

[WolfPup2018]

Originally Posted by Jessiesgirl

Your set up is the exactly the same as I'll be running. How does the 4runner do pulling the wolf pup? Any tips?

Awesome! Glad to see someone else has the 4Runner and Trailer! I haven’t actually taken it out yet, brand new trailer keeping the driveway warm! There are a few steep hills out side my neighborhood and as an example turning right into the road from a dead stop going up hill takes a bit to get going as the V6 pulls it uphill! I find it maxed at 40 mph without slamming the gas to shift it in the next gear, just taking it nice and gradual. Once you get going, like on a highway you’ll be fine. You will find your 4Runner running higher RPM on any sort of incline, even doing 60 on the highway as you slowly start to climb. The ultimate test will be a couple kids and full gear in the back. I may take off the rear rack and keep the spare tire inside the trailer and empty the water tank until I get closer to the destination to save several hundred lbs. Also considering a transmission cooler which seem simple to install and will prevent the transmission from overheating.

I wouldn’t travel faster than 65mph, plus you’ll eat lots of gas going any faster.

[Jessiesgirl]

Originally Posted by WolfPup2018

Awesome! Glad to see someone else has the 4Runner and Trailer! I haven’t actually taken it out yet, brand new trailer keeping the driveway warm! There are a few steep hills out side my neighborhood and as an example turning right into the road from a dead stop going up hill takes a bit to get going as the V6 pulls it uphill! I find it maxed at 40 mph without slamming the gas to shift it in the next gear, just taking it nice and gradual. Once you get going, like on a highway you’ll be fine. You will find your 4Runner running higher RPM on any sort of incline, even doing 60 on the highway as you slowly start to climb. The ultimate test will be a couple kids and full gear in the back. I may take off the rear rack and keep the spare tire inside the trailer and empty the water tank until I get closer to the destination to save several hundred lbs. Also considering a transmission cooler which seem simple to install and will prevent the transmission from overheating.

I wouldn’t travel faster than 65mph, plus you’ll eat lots of gas going any faster.

We would definitely not be going over 65, we have plenty of time to get where we are going. Thanks for the reply, my plan is to drive in standard rather than auto, add WDH, brake controller, air bags to the rear of the 4runner and not travel with water in the tanks.

[K2Kevin]

I’m pulling the wolf pup with a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited with Max Tow Package.

Up hills not bad, drove through the mountains with “steep grades” not a problem keeping 55+. I do feel some minor sway when trucks pass, otherwise a great time towing. Took a 3000 mile trip last summer, no issues at all.

To park it in my home storage spot, I have to reverse uphill at a fairly steep grade and hook a sharp left. Placing Jeep in 4 wheel low makes it push uphill in idle.

[Jessiesgirl]

Originally Posted by K2Kevin

I’m pulling the wolf pup with a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited with Max Tow Package.

Up hills not bad, drove through the mountains with “steep grades” not a problem keeping 55+. I do feel some minor sway when trucks pass, otherwise a great time towing. Took a 3000 mile trip last summer, no issues at all.

To park it in my home storage spot, I have to reverse uphill at a fairly steep grade and hook a sharp left. Placing Jeep in 4 wheel low makes it push uphill in idle.

Awesome, thanks for the reply.

[Mad Cow]

Originally Posted by TheGerman

Don't take this personal but that is bad advice all the way around. While there are a few dealer techs that have a clue, most of them don't as you can see from the dozens of threads on here.

The front end of the tow vehicle should not be lower than unloaded, at least not in this millenium. Ford's towing guide (and I don't even own a Ford) is excellent explaining the front axle load restoration (FALR) and even for a big truck like the F-350 they recommend to recover about 50%. E.g. if the front rises 1" from the trailer tongue weight, the WDH only needs to get 1/2" back down.

The challenge is not to get the rig level and the weight numbers right, you could do that with I-beams instead of spring bars. The challenge is to keep the rig under control when you drive down the highway on a rainy day and some idiot forces you to swerve. Too little rear axle load and it will jack knife.

I am looking into getting a 16FQ. Thought about getting a Blue Ox Sway Pro to use. Really not about distributing weight so much as anti sway. I will be pulling it with a 2015 Chevy 2500HD. I can throw over a ton of material in the back end of the pickup and it just starts to become level front to rear. And that is even having dropped the rear with a set of McGaughy's 2' drop shackles. I do have SumoSprings in place of the axle bump stops. That adds 1500 lb of support.

I just think using the Sway Pro would plant the trailer tires more firmly on the pavement in wind buffeting situations and even on rough roads. Actually I may be overthinking this.

[dbledan]

Originally Posted by Mad Cow

I am looking into getting a 16FQ. Thought about getting a Blue Ox Sway Pro to use. Really not about distributing weight so much as anti sway. I will be pulling it with a 2015 Chevy 2500HD. I can throw over a ton of material in the back end of the pickup and it just starts to become level front to rear. And that is even having dropped the rear with a set of McGaughy's 2' drop shackles. I do have SumoSprings in place of the axle bump stops. That adds 1500 lb of support.

I just think using the Sway Pro would plant the trailer tires more firmly on the pavement in wind buffeting situations and even on rough roads. Actually I may be overthinking this.

Make sure you specify the 2.5" shank if you get it assuming the 2500s have it. You don't want to pay additional shipping to get the right one later.

I painted the chains with DWs nail polish so I didnt have to count chain links all the time.

Ditch the 1ft tool and get a 2-3ft breaker bar and save your knuckles.

It's a good hitch and should give you piece of mind.

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by Mad Cow

I am looking into getting a 16FQ. Thought about getting a Blue Ox Sway Pro to use. Really not about distributing weight so much as anti sway. I will be pulling it with a 2015 Chevy 2500HD. I can throw over a ton of material in the back end of the pickup and it just starts to become level front to rear. And that is even having dropped the rear with a set of McGaughy's 2' drop shackles. I do have SumoSprings in place of the axle bump stops. That adds 1500 lb of support.

I just think using the Sway Pro would plant the trailer tires more firmly on the pavement in wind buffeting situations and even on rough roads. Actually I may be overthinking this.

you would be way better off and happier with an andersen wdh then any of the bar type wdh . lighter , no grease and no sway also helps to eliminate bounce . i tow a much bigger unit and the andersen works great

[Mad Cow]

Originally Posted by dbledan

Make sure you specify the 2.5" shank if you get it assuming the 2500s have it. You don't want to pay additional shipping to get the right one later.

I painted the chains with DWs nail polish so I didnt have to count chain links all the time.

Ditch the 1ft tool and get a 2-3ft breaker bar and save your knuckles.

It's a good hitch and should give you piece of mind.

Yep. 2.5” shank. Great thing is my location. I live near the Blue Ox main offices and shops. Can get things piece meal to the perfect setup. Good tip about the handle.