wolf pup weight distribution hitch

[mfriederichs]

I have a new 16FQ and I am looking at a Fastway e2 2-Point Sway Control Round Bar Hitch, 94-00-0600. It is rated for a 600 lb tongue weight. Would this be the right hitch for the pup? or would the 800 lb be better?
This is a round bar hitch. Is there an advantage to the trunion style hitch? Your thoughts on this type of hitch for sway control?

I am towing with a F-150 with a weight capacity of 1169 lbs, I want to level truck out a bit as it sags in the back to much when loaded.

Thank you, Mike

[WolfPup2018]

The research i did said that I needed 1000lb rating because the WolfPup3200lb trailers have 336 tongue and any weight you add between the rear axle of the truck and hitch of the trailer. I figure in my 4Runner a few hundred pounds of gear in the back, plus passengers and gear in the trailer would have put me at and above the 600 lb mark. A lot of the online calculators told me I was on the threshold of 600lb but suggested 1000 lb. even my dealer told me 1000 lb.

You have a truck so I think your tongue weight can easily be increased due to the amount of gear you can carry. I ended up getting the e-qulizwer 2 hitch from e-trailer and paid $510 about. Everyone also told me to get this one as it was the top of the line and did the best result in sway control. It’s worth the extra $$ to get it I think. Plus you’ll be ready for a larger trailer in the future.

An 800lb would probably work too if you didn’t get the 1000lb. Not to mention it’s a 4 point sway control hitch.

[TheGerman]

The logic for going to a 1000 lbs WDH totally eludes me. This a small single axle trailer with a GVWR of 4000 lbs and a tongue weight of 600 lbs on the high end. Running much stiffer bars negatively affects ride and rear wheel traction.

FWIW I've been towing my 16FB, which is admittedly a bit lighter than the new 16FQ, without a WDH for thousands of miles. The truck has 1600 lbs of payload though so that might cause less sag.

[wevitt]

Originally Posted by mfriederichs

I have a new 16FQ and I am looking at a Fastway e2 2-Point Sway Control Round Bar Hitch, 94-00-0600. It is rated for a 600 lb tongue weight. Would this be the right hitch for the pup? or would the 800 lb be better?
This is a round bar hitch. Is there an advantage to the trunion style hitch? Your thoughts on this type of hitch for sway control?

I am towing with a F-150 with a weight capacity of 1169 lbs, I want to level truck out a bit as it sags in the back to much when loaded.

Thank you, Mike

I have that exact hitch for sale PM me if you would like.

[Boomerweps]

I'm towing my Wolf Pup 16BHS using a Husky Centerline WDH with bars rated for 400-600#. Works wonderful on my 2008 Explorer. I cannot imagine my tongue weight much over 500# with a GTWR of 3877#. IMO, a much heavier rated WDH is a waste of $$ & means you have to carefully adjust them as to not put too much weight on your trailer and TV front axles.

[WolfPup2018]

Originally Posted by TheGerman

The logic for going to a 1000 lbs WDH totally eludes me. This a small single axle trailer with a GVWR of 4000 lbs and a tongue weight of 600 lbs on the high end. Running much stiffer bars negatively affects ride and rear wheel traction.

FWIW I've been towing my 16FB, which is admittedly a bit lighter than the new 16FQ, without a WDH for thousands of miles. The truck has 1600 lbs of payload though so that might cause less sag.

The tongue weight is 600 dry? Then add your gear, propane , trailer storage. You’d be up to 800+ in non time.

Maybe I should have got a 600lb, I can always sell and downgrade. Thanks for the tips!

[WolfPup2018]

Here is mine with 1000lb hitch

[WolfPup2018]

Correct me if I’m wrong. Tongue weight is from center of trailer axle to vehicle rear axle.

The Wolf pup 16BHS specs are 377lb tongue weight. Now I add a few hundred lbs, I would be up to 600 very easily. I think the next step up is the 1000 lb WDH. I purchased the equalizer hitch brand it’s the few that have the 4 point. And the price differences are minimal between the 600 and 1000.

https://www.etrailer.com/search/Weig...n+Sway+Control

I’m sure the actual size of the hitch is the same if at all smaller ??

[TheGerman]

Originally Posted by WolfPup2018

The tongue weight is 600 dry? Then add your gear, propane , trailer storage. You’d be up to 800+ in non time.

Maybe I should have got a 600lb, I can always sell and downgrade. Thanks for the tips!

No, 600 lbs would be 15% of the GVWR of 4000 lbs.

Have a look at section 4.4 of SAE J2807. If your setup meets the requirements you can make fun of me

[K2Kevin]

Originally Posted by WolfPup2018

Here is mine with 1000lb hitch

Looks to be sagging a lot. Does that hitch use washers/shims to adjust weight forward? Looks like a few inches low in rear.

[WolfPup2018]

Yea I have 4 washers . I was wondering if I could adjust it more. Would I use 6 washers and/or move the bar brackets up?

[rp53]

Originally Posted by K2Kevin

Looks to be sagging a lot. Does that hitch use washers/shims to adjust weaight forward? Looks like a few inches low in rear.

X2

[K2Kevin]

Originally Posted by WolfPup2018

Yea I have 4 washers . I was wondering if I could adjust it more. Would I use 6 washers and/or move the bar brackets up?

Not sure how many it needs, but it’s very important to level this out. Measure unloaded wheel wells, front and back, then measure when hitched. Should be pretty equal decrease in measurements.

I would say go to 6 spacers, if that doesn’t do it, raise bar. It takes time to get it right.

Note: this is a very simplistic response, care should be taken to get it right. It’s very important for safety while towing.

[Boomerweps]

Originally Posted by WolfPup2018

Here is mine with 1000lb hitch

It does look like you are sagging a bit in the TV rear and the TT doesn't look level. Could be an optical illusion from the camera angle on the TT.
What is the white thing on the TT rear bumper? It also looks like you removed the spare from the rear rack, did you or is your rack different?

[K2Kevin]

Originally Posted by Boomerweps

It does look like you are sagging a bit in the TV rear and the TT doesn't look level. Could be an optical illusion from the camera angle on the TT.

What is the white thing on the TT rear bumper? It also looks like you removed the spare from the rear rack, did you or is your rack different?

White thing, I think that’s the curb behind TT. I don’t think it’s an illusion, I think the WDH may need to be lowered (not as critical and TV) and the washers added to level TT weight.

[WolfPup2018]

So I can move the sway bars lower on more notch, but I put the hitch on the highest setting, I don’t think lowering the hitch and lowering the bars would level it out? Wouldn’t it sag a bit anyways not being a truck but an SUV? I know towing with this size vehicle is pushing its limit

[WolfPup2018]

I lowered the hitch on the shank one hole, added 2 washers, so 6 washers now, raised the sway bar brackets. According to the manual I was under adjusted and needed to shift more of the weight to the front axels of the TV.

This did bring the front end down a bit and reduced the sag significantly. The trailer is almost level and the front end is only 1/2” higher than no trailer connected.

Should I lower the hitch one more hole or do you think this is acceptable ?

Thanks in advanced for the guidance!

[K2Kevin]

Originally Posted by WolfPup2018

I lowered the hitch on the shank one hole, added 2 washers, so 6 washers now, raised the sway bar brackets. According to the manual I was under adjusted and needed to shift more of the weight to the front axels of the TV.



This did bring the front end down a bit and reduced the sag significantly. The trailer is almost level and the front end is only 1/2” higher than no trailer connected.



Should I lower the hitch one more hole or do you think this is acceptable ?



Thanks in advanced for the guidance!

The front end of your vehicle should NOT rise, it should lower. I would recommend you bring it to your RV dealer with your trailer and have them adjust it correctly.

This is not one of those things you want to mess with, especially since your maxing your TV capacity. Getting it right will improve towing, save you from loss of traction and loosing control when you need it most.

If you insist on doing it yourself, it’s best to take measurements and follow the directions of the WDH manufacture. Your TV should be level front to back, if you can see the sag, then it’s way off. Your front and rear should drop about the same measurement evenly in a perfect world. Also you should be using a torque wrench for brackets.

I’m no expert by any stretch, so if anyone wants to correct me...??

[TheGerman]

Originally Posted by K2Kevin

I’m no expert by any stretch, so if anyone wants to correct me...??

Don't take this personal but that is bad advice all the way around. While there are a few dealer techs that have a clue, most of them don't as you can see from the dozens of threads on here.

The front end of the tow vehicle should not be lower than unloaded, at least not in this millenium. Ford's towing guide (and I don't even own a Ford) is excellent explaining the front axle load restoration (FALR) and even for a big truck like the F-350 they recommend to recover about 50%. E.g. if the front rises 1" from the trailer tongue weight, the WDH only needs to get 1/2" back down.

The challenge is not to get the rig level and the weight numbers right, you could do that with I-beams instead of spring bars. The challenge is to keep the rig under control when you drive down the highway on a rainy day and some idiot forces you to swerve. Too little rear axle load and it will jack knife.

[WolfPup2018]

Thanks. Yea I took the measurement and according to the manual of the hitch, if the average number for the front is within 1/“2 +- , TV loaded with trailer connected AND no sway bar, then loaded with sway bar, then loaded and no trailer attached. I’m 1/2” high and I have no kink in the hitch. I think this is optimal. I’ll try lowering the hitch tomorrow