2019 I5 auxilary switches

[Dick Skeers]

i couldn't find the original thread, sorry, but here goes. i turned off my battery switch, but the coach still had power. following Mr. Clemens advice of june 11, i toggled the number 2 switch and our coach lights went out. curiously, when I hit the switch a small green light came on briefly and went out with the coach lights?
it is especially important because i am hopefully adding 2 group 31 agm batteries tomorrow and wanted everything disconnected while doing so.
thanks for the advice

[bclemens]

I think I understand what you are asking, but they are sort of from two separate posts.

1. OK. So first part is the aux switch. You want to make sure that the #2 switch is set to momentary and not latching. That is one way that the batteries are staying conencted. That is the emergency start switch and connects the house and chassis batteries together.

2. The other issue is when you get to where you are going or have full solar...the Bi-Directional relay could still be latching the chassis batteries to the charging system. The lights connect on the house side of the relay, but between the relay and the disconnect. So in theory, the BIRD could keep the lights powered until the chassis batters are at 12.6v.

So, in a nutshell...hit the disconnect. make sure the lights are out on their own and the chassis side should be unlatched. Or pull the negative on those as well to be safe. Also, cover the solar.

[joet19711]

So then, the chassis batteries are charged by the solar?

May answer your question Motorhome 1

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by joet19711

So then, the chassis batteries are charged by the solar?

May answer your question Motorhome 1

I think we are running the lines direct to the house batteries now...but at one time I think we were wiring to the charge line on the solenoid. I'd have to confirm that.

[Dick Skeers]

Thank you, your mentioning of solar power makes me nervous. I was planning on adding 2 group 31 batteries today, mainly to support our residential refer. Since the 31s are larger the 27s I will have to rearrange my house battery tray. So my procedure was going to be to turn the battery disconnect switch to the open position, then disconnect the negative and positive feeds from the coach. Next, rearrange and re-cable the batteries, reattach the negative and then positive back to the coach. I have no practical way to cover the solar since my ladder will not be installed until Friday. does the solar have to be disconnected to protect the coach electronics? Also, what function does the smaller red cable that is hooked to the positive batteries do?

[caseymyers]

Originally Posted by Dick Skeers

Thank you, your mentioning of solar power makes me nervous. I was planning on adding 2 group 31 batteries today, mainly to support our residential refer. Since the 31s are larger the 27s I will have to rearrange my house battery tray. So my procedure was going to be to turn the battery disconnect switch to the open position, then disconnect the negative and positive feeds from the coach. Next, rearrange and re-cable the batteries, reattach the negative and then positive back to the coach. I have no practical way to cover the solar since my ladder will not be installed until Friday. does the solar have to be disconnected to protect the coach electronics? Also, what function does the smaller red cable that is hooked to the positive batteries do?

If you have 27's I think the experts on this forum would tell you to stick with 27's. Always like batteries I think the rule is...

[Slolane]

Originally Posted by bclemens

I think I understand what you are asking, but they are sort of from two separate posts.

1. OK. So first part is the aux switch. You want to make sure that the #2 switch is set to momentary and not latching. That is one way that the batteries are staying conencted. That is the emergency start switch and connects the house and chassis batteries together.

2. The other issue is when you get to where you are going or have full solar...the Bi-Directional relay could still be latching the chassis batteries to the charging system. The lights connect on the house side of the relay, but between the relay and the disconnect. So in theory, the BIRD could keep the lights powered until the chassis batters are at 12.6v.

So, in a nutshell...hit the disconnect. make sure the lights are out on their own and the chassis side should be unlatched. Or pull the negative on those as well to be safe. Also, cover the solar.

I thought I read before that #1 was the tie and #2 was the docking lights?

should I hear a solenoid clicking when I hit the tie?

[Dick Skeers]

Caseymyers,
thank you for your response, and until last week, i agreed with you. but, in discussing the situation with a battery supplier (whose expertise i respect) i changed my mind. he likened it to water storage, that more is better, and that like more water, the more amp hour storage the more amp hours there are available. if i understand what i was told, the volts will come off the batteries and the 31s will "equalize" by supplementing the 27s?? this was confirmed by a very practical high-level electrical engineer cousin, (who when i interrupted him today had removed and was cleaning his intercooler on his vintage diesel motorhome that he had just re-engined), agreed that the 31s would add more storage. if we didn't have a residential refer, and like to sometimes dry camp i would just add 27s.
thanks again,
and where are you stationed?

[caseymyers]

I'm old. I retired in 1984 after 22 years. I was on 10 ships and ended up my last 3 years and retiring from SPECWAR in Coronado.

[Dick Skeers]

in about 2 wks well be a little north of you at Oceano, which is my first concern, because we want to take our mh our on the beach for the day as a base station for our grandchildren and we have to be able to support our rews refer