AC Not cooling??? Check baffles and duct.

[bclemens]

I've had a few units hit the field where the AC would not cool. On further review, we must have had a new guy installing the baffle that separates the supply from the return in the roof. They are just set into a groove and not taped, which allows them to fall down. The sensor in the return air plenum, then gets mixed with the supply air and will short cycle, not allowing it to get to temp. Pull the white cover to take a look. While you are in there, make sure the there are holes going into the duct openings on both sides. They have been taping the area around the duct and not putting holes in the tape.

They are checking for this now...but when I find 3-4 in the field, it typically means someone was doing it for a while. It would work during testing, but then once it starts shaking around the baffle falls.

[retired18whler]

Clemens, what you are doing by helping owners be informed on this forum is a good thing, and appreciated.
This subject isn't just a Dynamax one with air units and the duct work, it is with other RV manufacturers also.

[glsimms]

Originally Posted by retired18whler

Clemens, what you are doing by helping owners be informed on this forum is a good thing, and appreciated.
This subject isn't just a Dynamax one with air units and the duct work, it is with other RV manufacturers also.

Amen x 1,000......

[slimetime]

Hear, Hear!

On the weekends to boot!

[milkman55]

Thanks for your support. We are camping about 5 hrs away from home right now and I will take the grill off when I get home and check out my return baffle and duct openings.

The temp is tolerable. We can hold about 85f with the shades all closed. I plan to check the temp coming right out of the Atwood grill. What temp is normal right at the source?

[Aim High]

We took delivery of a 2017 DX3 last year and had this exact issue on one of the A/C units.

[CSWVK]

We took delivery 5/2017 2018 DX3 and had to tape both AC baffles in place, they had fallen down. Poor AC performance & erratic cooling. Taped baffles in proper place and now the AC works great in 90+ heat.

[joet19711]

After fixing mine, couple weeks ago we were in 90 deg with 90 percent humidity and I could maintain 72 in the MH, it felt great.

[n0ms]

[QUOTE=retired18whler;1578883]Clemens, what you are doing by helping owners be informed on this forum is a good thing, and appreciated.
This subject isn't just a Dynamax one with air units and the duct work, it is with other RV manufacturers also.[/QUOTE

Just like he said. Very common with all manufactures.

[bclemens]

If that is not the issue...I have also heard of the return air temp sensor going bad. We just had a brand new one that was throwing a code. In that case however, I think it does trigger a code at the T-stat.

[Ender]

Thanks Brian, as always. I was just coming here to look this up. We were a little warm this weekend. But it could've just been the ambient temp

A balmy summer day in Texas, great for dirt bike riding all day.

And if the pic is not clear, yes, that's 112 degrees F.

[FOURWHL]

heh yeah ours were only able to muster 80 when it was 105 out in Grand Junction, but I imagine that was more to do with the fact that we had all the shades open. that said 80 felt good nonetheless at that temp!

[pw11326]

Thanks Brian. Cost us $100 dollars to find out the baffles werent properly installed.

[milkman55]

I pulled the grill on my Atwood this morning and found that the baffle had not fallen down, but was positioned to where about a 1/3 of the side openings for the ducted air were on the return air side. I repositioned the top of the baffle where all the air reached the side ducts and taped it in place with foil tape to keep it from moving.

I also found my return air screen was almost completely clogged even after only using my Isata 3 on four short trips. I cleaned the screen and reassembled everything.

We should have 100f this afternoon and I will see how much it improves.

Using the two slide adjusters on the Atwood, what has everyone found to be the right position to feed the ducts and have air coming out the main grill?

[Jammer151]

Originally Posted by milkman55

I pulled the grill on my Atwood this morning and found that the baffle had not fallen down, but was positioned to where about a 1/3 of the side openings for the ducted air were on the return air side. I repositioned the top of the baffle where all the air reached the side ducts and taped it in place with foil tape to keep it from moving.

I also found my return air screen was almost completely clogged even after only using my Isata 3 on four short trips. I cleaned the screen and reassembled everything.

We should have 100f this afternoon and I will see how much it improves.

Using the two slide adjusters on the Atwood, what has everyone found to be the right position to feed the ducts and have air coming out the main grill?

I have found the best position to feed ducts as well as having air coming out of the main grill has been to keep one open and one closed.

[halla]

I clean the screen filters ever other trip. Amazing how quick they get filthy.

[rskeans]

I took delivery of our DX3 just 10 days ago in TX. I'm now in AZ and the front air sucks.

Could somebody elaborate a little more on how to get at these baffles? I'm not the brightest star in the sky and the nearest Dynamax dealer is in NV.

[CSWVK]

Just remove the 6 screws on the main inside AC cover (square head screws), position foam baffle so that it blocks cool output air from going back into the intake duct, pretty much 3/4 towards the front. Tape in place with foil AC tape. reinstall inside cover

[rskeans]

Originally Posted by CSWVK

Just remove the 6 screws on the main inside AC cover (square head screws), position foam baffle so that it blocks cool output air from going back into the intake duct, pretty much 3/4 towards the front. Tape in place with foil AC tape. reinstall inside cover

Many thanks for the quick response. You said Main Inside AC cover. Is there an outside cover?

[CSWVK]

On the roof outside, no need to go there