Any Ideas? Water in wet bay.

[bratbros]

Yesterday as I was returning from 3 days of boondocking I was going down a fairly steep winding road, probably little faster than I should have been going, but I didn't feel it was too fast. When I got to the first town, I stopped to dump the holding tanks which were less than half full. I thought I smelled some sewage smell on my decent, and when I opened the wet bay to dump the tanks there was I believe, grey water in the wet bay. Not a lot but enough to see it on some of the piping and some of the rags I keep in that bay were damp. Any ideas how the heck that would have happened and what I can do to prevent it from happening again?

[halla]

What unit? Our first Force the kitchen drain elbow broke lose from the tank, spilled gray water. It was a BH. Had to glue the elbow back in place.

[bratbros]

Originally Posted by halla

What unit? Our first Force the kitchen drain elbow broke lose from the tank, spilled gray water. It was a BH. Had to glue the elbow back in place.

It's an Isata 5 30FW. I can't even see where anything connects to the tanks except the dump valves. There is no room to get to anything, unless I'm missing something....

[SusieR]

Originally Posted by bratbros

It's an Isata 5 30FW. I can't even see where anything connects to the tanks except the dump valves. There is no room to get to anything, unless I'm missing something....

Our 30FW...
We had to have the flange replaced where it connects to the black tank. We had always dumped before traveling but on one trip we were in a hurry and tanks were only half full so we didn't dump. Arrived at campground later and back bins on both sides were covered in sewage.
Brian helped us find a repair facility local to where we were. They replaced the flange and pipe and all was good.

[bratbros]

Originally Posted by SusieR

Our 30FW...
We had to have the flange replaced where it connects to the black tank. We had always dumped before traveling but on one trip we were in a hurry and tanks were only half full so we didn't dump. Arrived at campground later and back bins on both sides were covered in sewage.
Brian helped us find a repair facility local to where we were. They replaced the flange and pipe and all was good.

Was the repair facility an RV Dealer? Did you see how they accessed the flange? How long did it take to get it done? It sounds like this may be the problem.

[SusieR]

Originally Posted by bratbros

Was the repair facility an RV Dealer? Did you see how they accessed the flange? How long did it take to get it done? It sounds like this may be the problem.

It was Appleway RV dealership in Spokane. It took about 4 hours. Some of that was cleanup. They removed the toilet and did all the work through that hole, I believe. They changed the flange and changed the pipe to be a little longer into the black tank. They also recommended that we place a 2x4 brace under the black tank to keep it from bowing down when full.
Their service techs seemed pretty knowledgeable about what they were doing. They might have records for us if you want to call them to see what parts they used.

[bratbros]

Originally Posted by SusieR

It was Appleway RV dealership in Spokane. It took about 4 hours. Some of that was cleanup. They removed the toilet and did all the work through that hole, I believe. They changed the flange and changed the pipe to be a little longer into the black tank. They also recommended that we place a 2x4 brace under the black tank to keep it from bowing down when full.
Their service techs seemed pretty knowledgeable about what they were doing. They might have records for us if you want to call them to see what parts they used.

I live in the Tri-Cities about 2 hours from Spokane. That would be doable for me if I can get them to do it. You don't have the name of someone to ask for there do you? Would you be willing to email, text or call me with the information? tom.muhl@gmail.com, 509-531-9790 Tom Muhlbeier is my name.

[SusieR]

Originally Posted by bratbros

I live in the Tri-Cities about 2 hours from Spokane. That would be doable for me if I can get them to do it. You don't have the name of someone to ask for there do you? Would you be willing to email, text or call me with the information? tom.muhl@gmail.com, 509-531-9790 Tom Muhlbeier is my name.

Sure. I believe I have the business card in my wallet. I'll email it to you. Brian recommended them. I believe he knows the owner.
We live in Washington too. San Juan Islands.

[bratbros]

Originally Posted by SusieR

Sure. I believe I have the business card in my wallet. I'll email it to you. Brian recommended them. I believe he knows the owner.
We live in Washington too. San Juan Islands.

I've seen your posts on occasion. Nice to know there's another I5 30FW in the Evergreen State....although is pretty desert like and not so evergreen here!!

Thanks for the help!

[bclemens]

To further the info here.... The Dynamax dealer in the area is RnR RV Center. Appleway RV carries the Sunseeker Class C, but that makes them an authorized service center. Mike is the owner and is very hands on. I have known him for about 16 years now...good people.

[SusieR]

Originally Posted by bclemens

To further the info here.... The Dynamax dealer in the area is RnR RV Center. Appleway RV carries the Sunseeker Class C, but that makes them an authorized service center. Mike is the owner and is very hands on. I have known him for about 16 years now...good people.

They were great to us!

[bratbros]

Originally Posted by bclemens

To further the info here.... The Dynamax dealer in the area is RnR RV Center. Appleway RV carries the Sunseeker Class C, but that makes them an authorized service center. Mike is the owner and is very hands on. I have known him for about 16 years now...good people.

I understand. Thanks a lot Brian and Susie! I'll let you know how it goes.

[bratbros]

Well, Mike and his people at Appleway did a great job taking care of me. Wonderful people and they know their stuff. The flange on the black tank was definitely leaking and they extended the pipe to reach down farther into the tank.

The UGH is that now they grey tank is doing the same thing. The top of the tank is buckled a bit and I'm pretty sure that's what's causing the problem. Has anyone had this issue with the grey tank. I verified with 100% certainty that the water in the rear compartments is grey water. I drained both tanks. Filled the grey tank and drove around. Water in the wet bay. Then drained the grey and filled the black tank and did the same thing with no water in the compartments.

Hoping I can get one more favor from Appleway RV.

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by bratbros

Well, Mike and his people at Appleway did a great job taking care of me. Wonderful people and they know their stuff. The flange on the black tank was definitely leaking and they extended the pipe to reach down farther into the tank.

The UGH is that now they grey tank is doing the same thing. The top of the tank is buckled a bit and I'm pretty sure that's what's causing the problem. Has anyone had this issue with the grey tank. I verified with 100% certainty that the water in the rear compartments is grey water. I drained both tanks. Filled the grey tank and drove around. Water in the wet bay. Then drained the grey and filled the black tank and did the same thing with no water in the compartments.

Hoping I can get one more favor from Appleway RV.

Based on the 30FW's wastewater plumbing schematics, I'd say that your vent stack pipe for the grey tank is no longer fully inserted into the tank grommet. So, the exact same thing that was just done for your black tank, now needs to be done for your grey tank. The actual inlets for the sink(s) and shower are right at the corner of the tank, so it's a safe bet (although, still an assumption) that they are just fine. However, The vent pipe is very near the middle of the tank where they are known to sag.

It's hard to tell from the schematic, but it LOOKS like that vent pipe might be inside the bathroom wall. Right at the corner of the shower pan. If you were standing in the bathroom and looking at the shower pan, it would be the corner of the pan on the right and closest to you. if you can pull that wall board off, you might be able to easily fix it with a Home Depot run.....or you might be able to pull a wall board from the bedroom side to access it. I've never actually been inside a 30FW, so it's hard for me to say. In our 35DB, once I got the wall board removed, it was a fairly straight forward-ish fix.

Here's the schematic I am looking at:

[BLT4SPD]

.....and here's the link to where Brian Clemens posted both the fresh water and waste water drawings for the 30FW:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1874950

[dannko]

Originally Posted by BLT4SPD

Based on the 30FW's wastewater plumbing schematics, I'd say that your vent stack pipe for the grey tank is no longer fully inserted into the tank grommet. So, the exact same thing that was just done for your black tank, now needs to be done for your grey tank. The actual inlets for the sink(s) and shower are right at the corner of the tank, so it's a safe bet (although, still an assumption) that they are just fine. However, The vent pipe is very near the middle of the tank where they are known to sag.

It's hard to tell from the schematic, but it LOOKS like that vent pipe might be inside the bathroom wall. Right at the corner of the shower pan. If you were standing in the bathroom and looking at the shower pan, it would be the corner of the pan on the right and closest to you. if you can pull that wall board off, you might be able to easily fix it with a Home Depot run.....or you might be able to pull a wall board from the bedroom side to access it. I've never actually been inside a 30FW, so it's hard for me to say. In our 35DB, once I got the wall board removed, it was a fairly straight forward-ish fix.

Here's the schematic I am looking at:

you and I know this all too well on the 35DB.

I wanted new different rigid tanks that don't sag, but they did not do that for me. So I am not super confident in the future because I don't know what they really did. I did see where they added a piece of plywood under each tank, not sure what that is for. I thought I read where the or proposed newer tanks will have internal bracing of some sort, that is definitely needed.

[bclemens]

The new tanks just have strips of reinforcement in the top...sort of like strips in a fiberglass cap to make it more rigid. The fact is....if they are shipped and stored properly, then NONE of that is needed. The new tanks were also an opportunity to change the way it outlets, change to a new supplier since the old one was backed up...but they do not fit in place of the old ones.

Also, I have seen the bottom bow up a bit on the new ones (which we pay more for)...so I have to figure out what that is all about. I will say, it is easier to get one to sag down, then to sag UP if there is a problem....so I'll take it for now. I think ALL the tank suppliers were just building too many too fast and not letting the product cool enough before taking it out of the mold. Then they shipped them with the outlet pressing into the backside of another causing a sag. The ones we have corrected, have not failed again with the supports.

[dannko]

Originally Posted by bclemens

The new tanks just have strips of reinforcement in the top...sort of like strips in a fiberglass cap to make it more rigid. The fact is....if they are shipped and stored properly, then NONE of that is needed. The new tanks were also an opportunity to change the way it outlets, change to a new supplier since the old one was backed up...but they do not fit in place of the old ones.

Also, I have seen the bottom bow up a bit on the new ones (which we pay more for)...so I have to figure out what that is all about. I will say, it is easier to get one to sag down, then to sag UP if there is a problem....so I'll take it for now. I think ALL the tank suppliers were just building too many too fast and not letting the product cool enough before taking it out of the mold. Then they shipped them with the outlet pressing into the backside of another causing a sag. The ones we have corrected, have not failed again with the supports.

Yes mine bow up also, why did they put the plywood on top? Did they glue it to the tank or??

[bclemens]

Likely they glued the tank to the plywood so that it acts as the reinforcement. That would certainly prevent bowing.

[bratbros]

Originally Posted by BLT4SPD

Based on the 30FW's wastewater plumbing schematics, I'd say that your vent stack pipe for the grey tank is no longer fully inserted into the tank grommet. So, the exact same thing that was just done for your black tank, now needs to be done for your grey tank. The actual inlets for the sink(s) and shower are right at the corner of the tank, so it's a safe bet (although, still an assumption) that they are just fine. However, The vent pipe is very near the middle of the tank where they are known to sag.

It's hard to tell from the schematic, but it LOOKS like that vent pipe might be inside the bathroom wall. Right at the corner of the shower pan. If you were standing in the bathroom and looking at the shower pan, it would be the corner of the pan on the right and closest to you. if you can pull that wall board off, you might be able to easily fix it with a Home Depot run.....or you might be able to pull a wall board from the bedroom side to access it. I've never actually been inside a 30FW, so it's hard for me to say. In our 35DB, once I got the wall board removed, it was a fairly straight forward-ish fix.

Here's the schematic I am looking at:

Thanks for the information. There is a panel under the shower pan. Do you think the problem could be fixed through that panel? If not, how did you get the wall board off? Did you replace it with something else or were you able to reuse it? Can you explain in detail what you did to fix the problem? Just a coupler and more pipe? Thanks!