Awning Arm not closing. Isata 5 36' DS

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by caseymyers

I had lubricated the awning in the past, probably a few months back. But the silicone did the trick everything is smooth and quiet. I'll lube more often, mine you I don't use the awning much.

I have found that it needs pretty constant attention, but we also use ours a lot. I keep a can of Boeshield (https://boeshield.com) in the storage bay and a step stool by the door. If I'm outside grilling (or whatever), I'll take a few minutes to lube the pivot points and wipe the gas cylinders down.

Originally Posted by caseymyers

I tried playing with the adjusting screw yet again and I cannot get the sag out of the front arm. I took some photo graphs of the mounting plate. I noticed that the front plate is mounted about half an inch lower than the rear mount. Do you think that would affect the geometry?

Yes, I think that could make a difference. Again, I am not an "expert" on these things, but a 1/2" off at the wall, could equate to quite a bit out of whack at the end of the arm. Then again, Carefree could easily have that kind of tolerance built into the design of the awning architecture......<pause>....okay, I just downloaded and briefly skimmed the installation instructions for the Latitude canopy and in BIG BOLD LETTERS, it say "NOTICE For proper awning operation, the mounting plates must be parallel to the awning rail." So, while it DOESN'T say the mounting brackets must be level with one another, if we assume the awning rail is straight AND the mounting plates are parallel with that rail, then we can infer that the mounting plates are going to be level with one another. Installation manual is here:

https://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/d...stallation.pdf

Originally Posted by caseymyers

I tried to take off the helper springs/strut but could not figure out how to pop it off and I'm afraid I'd break it.

They are so simple it's silly.....once you know the secret. There is a little spring steel "C" shaped clip that simply gets slid up and away from the end with a small flathead screwdriver. Here's the best picture google can find me right now:

Originally Posted by caseymyers

Have you drilled a drain hole in the plastic gear housing? And if so where?

I have not done that yet. I am waiting for the new gearbox to arrive from Carefree and then I will for sure. It'll be at a low point in the plastic housing, but I want to evaluate where that will be with the awning both retracted and extended.

Originally Posted by caseymyers

My theory on the support bar wearing through the fabric is that since the front of the awning is not closing all the way it bounces as we are going down the road causing all the wear. I'm out of ideas, do you have a contact at Carefree?

I talked with a guy by the name of Cory at Carefree yesterday and it took FOREVER for me to get through to someone (32 minutes), but I am glad that I finally got him because he knew his stuff and he knew EXACTLY what parts I was talking about. Now, with that said, they are a manufacturer and not an installer, so installation questions might not be his wheelhouse. I know this because they are about an hour from our house and I asked if I could bring our coach down to have them look at this water ingress problem. I also want to change the canopy to their better Acrylic material, but I don't want any ole' dealer doing the install. He said there wasn't even a possibility of that happening. Anyway, he told me that the best way to reach him without going through the pains of the phone system was email. That is:

cklenk@carefreeofcolorado.com

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by caseymyers

They are pre-drilled. I've tossed around the idea of moving the plate up but the bottom set of holes would be exposed. I could just fill them with sealant I suppose. But that'd be some serious work of holding that awning up while you did the job. Anyone on here done that one? I'd need a tall awning jack?

I wonder if it would be possible to remove the mounting plates and then slot the mounting bolt holes in the plates allowing for some up/down adjustment. If yours off by 1/2" and you slotted the holes in both plates, then each plate would only have to move 1/4" in one direction or another.

Of course, that is going to require full removal of the canopy.

[caseymyers]

Originally Posted by BLT4SPD

I have found that it needs pretty constant attention, but we also use ours a lot. I keep a can of Boeshield (https://boeshield.com) in the storage bay and a step stool by the door. If I'm outside grilling (or whatever), I'll take a few minutes to lube the pivot points and wipe the gas cylinders down.

Never heard of Boeshield, just looked at their website seems like an amazing product. I'll pickup some and try it.

Yes, I think that could make a difference. Again, I am not an "expert" on these things, but a 1/2" off at the wall, could equate to quite a bit out of whack at the end of the arm. Then again, Carefree could easily have that kind of tolerance built into the design of the awning architecture......<pause>....okay, I just downloaded and briefly skimmed the installation instructions for the Latitude canopy and in BIG BOLD LETTERS, it say "NOTICE For proper awning operation, the mounting plates must be parallel to the awning rail." So, while it DOESN'T say the mounting brackets must be level with one another, if we assume the awning rail is straight AND the mounting plates are parallel with that rail, then we can infer that the mounting plates are going to be level with one another. Installation manual is here:

https://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/d...stallation.pdf

I'm going to pass this on to my dealer, maybe I'll get lucky and he'll move it for me?

They are so simple it's silly.....once you know the secret. There is a little spring steel "C" shaped clip that simply gets slid up and away from the end with a small flathead screwdriver. Here's the best picture google can find me right now:



That's in the old 'normal' style, I've done many of those, but the gas springs on mine have a plastic hook looking thing that appears you just pop them off but I'm afraid I'll break them. I looked online and could not find anything that looked like them. In their parts break down they are called: 14 R040905-001 Hook, Gas Spring from $6.19

Anyway, he told me that the best way to reach him without going through the pains of the phone system was email. That is:

cklenk@carefreeofcolorado.com

Thanks for Cory's contact and thanks again for all your help.

[caseymyers]

I made several comments on your last post but they came out weird. Looks like the same font style as yours. Thanks again.

[dannko]

Originally Posted by BLT4SPD

I wonder if it would be possible to remove the mounting plates and then slot the mounting bolt holes in the plates allowing for some up/down adjustment. If yours off by 1/2" and you slotted the holes in both plates, then each plate would only have to move 1/4" in one direction or another.

Of course, that is going to require full removal of the canopy.

Ben, what is that T9 stuff? Is it similar to FLUID FILM?

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by dannko

Ben, what is that T9 stuff? Is it similar to FLUID FILM?

I've never used fluid film, so it's hard for me to say, but after reading fluid film's literature it's safe to say that they are similar.

Boeshield T-9 is dispersed in a liquid that evaporates after a few hours and leaves the lubricate behind after the evaporation occurs. The actual lubricate that is left behind has a waxy consistency, so it won't sling off and it's fairly hard to wash off (think rain). The idea is that the liquid will run into all the nooks and crannies, evaporate and leave the lubricate behind. I know a couple Boeing engineers and have asked them about it and one of the other benefits (or so they claim) is that it doesn't care about temperature. So, at -70 at 30,000 feet, it still lubricates.

I really don't know all the techie stuff about it, but I've used it for years on everything from cars to bikes to household stuff and now RVs and I love it.

What's been your experience with Fluid Film?

[dannko]

Originally Posted by BLT4SPD

I've never used fluid film, so it's hard for me to say, but after reading fluid film's literature it's safe to say that they are similar.

Boeshield T-9 is dispersed in a liquid that evaporates after a few hours and leaves the lubricate behind after the evaporation occurs. The actual lubricate that is left behind has a waxy consistency, so it won't sling off and it's fairly hard to wash off (think rain). The idea is that the liquid will run into all the nooks and crannies, evaporate and leave the lubricate behind. I know a couple Boeing engineers and have asked them about it and one of the other benefits (or so they claim) is that it doesn't care about temperature. So, at -70 at 30,000 feet, it still lubricates.

I really don't know all the techie stuff about it, but I've used it for years on everything from cars to bikes to household stuff and now RVs and I love it.

What's been your experience with Fluid Film?

Have not used Fluid Film but it was on my list of things to use if I drive in corrosive environments. I don't think it's a lubricant, but just for protection, but I may be wrong. It is used a lot by folks in road salted areas. I like the idea of lubrication with your product.

[dannko]

what Carefree model is our awning? I am trying to find these adjustment notes on Carefrees site but I think it's the Latitude? If so, do we have the direct response option for wind?

UPDATE: I think we have Latitude on the I5, is this the directions you guys were following to make sure the arms are parallel so the bumpers contact the mounting plate and the awning is not loose?

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by dannko

what Carefree model is our awning? I am trying to find these adjustment notes on Carefrees site but I think it's the Latitude? If so, do we have the direct response option for wind?

Correct.

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by dannko

what Carefree model is our awning? I am trying to find these adjustment notes on Carefrees site but I think it's the Latitude? If so, do we have the direct response option for wind?

UPDATE: I think we have Latitude on the I5, is this the directions you guys were following to make sure the arms are parallel so the bumpers contact the mounting plate and the awning is not loose?

Yes, the I5 has the “Latitude” and more specifically, they have a “dual stage latitude”.

Yes, all latitude awning have the direct response to wind feature. It’s a little black box mounted in the clamshell cover for the motor that senses the excessive movement in the awning and rolls it’s up when/if that happens. If your awning is out, grab the end of it and shake it several times....it’ll roll up. Sometimes when we are packing up at a camp site, and I’m feeling extra lazy, I’ll use this method for retracting the canopy.

[dannko]

Originally Posted by BLT4SPD

Yes, the I5 has the “Latitude” and more specifically, they have a “dual stage latitude”.

Yes, all latitude awning have the direct response to wind feature. It’s a little black box mounted in the clamshell cover for the motor that senses the excessive movement in the awning and rolls it’s up when/if that happens. If your awning is out, grab the end of it and shake it several times....it’ll roll up. Sometimes when we are packing up at a camp site, and I’m feeling extra lazy, I’ll use this method for retracting the canopy.

ha yes wish I knew this as one day I left it out and was panicking the whole time we were on an excursion and there were nasty looking rain clouds/storms on the horizon.

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by dannko

ha yes wish I knew this as one day I left it out and was panicking the whole time we were on an excursion and there were nasty looking rain clouds/storms on the horizon.

Yeah, it took me a while to trust it too, but it seems pretty effective......I still NEVER leave the awning out if we leave. I know, strange that trust the automatic functionality, but still roll it up every single time we leave.

[clockcuff_66]

Well mine will not hold water, left half of the cover along I-40 Friday afternoon. They were not actually screwed together or was I missing a screw? Pulled into the camp site and noticed the tangle of wires and the module hanging out. That's when I realized they will retract on their own. Every time I grabbed the module back it would go. My technician denied that functionality at delivery.

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by clockcuff_66

Well mine will not hold water, left half of the cover along I-40 Friday afternoon. They were not actually screwed together or was I missing a screw? Pulled into the camp site and noticed the tangle of wires and the module hanging out. That's when I realized they will retract on their own. Every time I grabbed the module back it would go. My technician denied that functionality at delivery.

Those covers are held on with 4 screws. 1 of them also holds the rubber bumper in place.

When I am working on the motor side of the awning, I usually just unplug the hot lead to the motor because, yes, the awning will start to recoil in terror once you touch it......or it automatically retracts....toe-may-toe/toe-mah-toe.

[clockcuff_66]

Originally Posted by BLT4SPD

Those covers are held on with 4 screws. 1 of them also holds the rubber bumper in place.

When I am working on the motor side of the awning, I usually just unplug the hot lead to the motor because, yes, the awning will start to recoil in terror once you touch it......or it automatically retracts....toe-may-toe/toe-mah-toe.

Good to know, mine must have been missing all of the screws then. Is that from the front side or backside?

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by clockcuff_66

Good to know, mine must have been missing all of the screws then. Is that from the front side or backside?

They screw in from the coach side. So the cover that faces OUT when the awning is rolled up looks smooth with no screw holes. My coach isn't handy at the moment, but if you look at the Carefree exploded diagram in this link, you can kind of see them around part #4 which is the rubber bumper:

https://www.e-carefree.com/ecarefree...r?productId=91

[caseymyers]

Originally Posted by BLT4SPD

They screw in from the coach side. So the cover that faces OUT when the awning is rolled up looks smooth with no screw holes. My coach isn't handy at the moment, but if you look at the Carefree exploded diagram in this link, you can kind of see them around part #4 which is the rubber bumper:

https://www.e-carefree.com/ecarefree...r?productId=91

Well I've lubed and adjusted everything again (a few times now) and the front arm will not close all the way. I'm out of ideas. I've asked my dealer to replace the gas spring on the forward arm. I'm guessing (hoping) that there is a bind there and a new spring will fix the issue. Just seems odd and not logical for the front arm to sag a bit and not close all the way. Thanks for all the advice.

[nayther]

I watched a youtube video last night on this and I'm convinced my awning was not installed square, might be your problem too. Measure the distance from the fabric edge to the horizontal mounting point at the coach, then same on the roller tube. the dimensions should be the same on each end of each of them, don't have to be equal, just the same. Then measure corner/corner of the fabric. Everything needs to be square. I'm convinced mine is too far back at the front, will be fixing it soon. I can get it to roll up straight but there are wrinkles so I know it's not right.

[NMWildcat]

Awning fabric can, and will, shift occasionally on the roller causing the wrinkling you describe.
You can shift it easily back into place yourself (might need a helper and ladders), then you put a screw or rivet into one end to hold it there. Easy.

Originally Posted by nayther

I watched a youtube video last night on this and I'm convinced my awning was not installed square, might be your problem too. Measure the distance from the fabric edge to the horizontal mounting point at the coach, then same on the roller tube. the dimensions should be the same on each end of each of them, don't have to be equal, just the same. Then measure corner/corner of the fabric. Everything needs to be square. I'm convinced mine is too far back at the front, will be fixing it soon. I can get it to roll up straight but there are wrinkles so I know it's not right.

[caseymyers]

Originally Posted by nayther

I watched a youtube video last night on this and I'm convinced my awning was not installed square, might be your problem too. Measure the distance from the fabric edge to the horizontal mounting point at the coach, then same on the roller tube. the dimensions should be the same on each end of each of them, don't have to be equal, just the same. Then measure corner/corner of the fabric. Everything needs to be square. I'm convinced mine is too far back at the front, will be fixing it soon. I can get it to roll up straight but there are wrinkles so I know it's not right.

There is something wrong with my awning for sure. Mine has been wrinkled since I took delivery and was told that's normal. I've tried to straighten it out but gave up. And for the past two months now the fabric is actually wearing the paint off the middle support bar. Not sure I understand your measuring? My latest request is for the dealer to replace the front gas spring, but I'm not optimistic that will change anything. When you look at mine it is clear that the front arm hangs lower than the rear arm and the front arm will not fold all the way closed, it's about an inch short.