Bathroom sink not draining. Isata 5 DS

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by caseymyers

Dynamax uses the Hepa valve under the showers, water flows one way, no P trap needed.

Can we clarify if we are talking about the HepVo valve as seen here or something else:

Hepvo Waterless Valve

In my tiny little brain, HEPA is an acronym for High Efficiency Particulate Air and is used in reference to air filter and air filtration systems. However, it doesn't HAVE to be used in that context, so I just want to make sure I understand what everyone is talking about.

[bclemens]

Hepo is what we call them...but yes, autocorrect made it hepa.

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Hepo is what we call them...but yes, autocorrect made it hepa.

Gotcha, thanks for the clarification. I see it in the BOM on the Drainage Layout Drawing you provided as well.

[caseymyers]

Coach is parked on a slope with the drivers side lower than the sink side. So I have much more slope (in the video) than if the coach were level. Note speed of water draining and air coming back up at the end. Note standing water very near the top of the drain. It's a mystery. Maybe the Hepa (HEPvO for those acronym challenged )

[Wrangler4X4]

Well I guess I'm in this group too. The drain has always been slow/clogged and I USUALLY see soap scum or tooth Paste in there unless I go in a couple extra times to clean it again and then the scum around the sink base- I seldom use it.

So is there a way to fix it- I looked and too much to move and maybe beyond what I feel comfortable working on. I seldom ever use it- wasted space.

So I'm guessing this is something that only the factory can fix?

[caseymyers]

This will work. BC and all, please watch this video for the bubbling entertainment.

[bclemens]

Can you try turning the faucet so that it does not feed directly into the drain itself? Normally, a faucet will hit the bowl and cascade into the drain. The fluid sort of clings to the side and rolls over the edge. In this case it is trying to drain, while you are also forcing water INTO the drain (which happen to be the vent for the trap).

It could really also be that the strainer restricts the flow too much and you end up pooling anyway.

For science...try removing the strainer and the turn the faucet slightly so it is off center, and hitting the bowl. See what that does.

[caseymyers]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Can you try turning the faucet so that it does not feed directly into the drain itself? Normally, a faucet will hit the bowl and cascade into the drain. The fluid sort of clings to the side and rolls over the edge. In this case it is trying to drain, while you are also forcing water INTO the drain (which happen to be the vent for the trap).

It could really also be that the strainer restricts the flow too much and you end up pooling anyway.

For science...try removing the strainer and the turn the faucet slightly so it is off center, and hitting the bowl. See what that does.

I never use the strainer. I could move the faucet but I'm not really worried about it while the faucet is running, rather that the water slows down when the water is off and then bubbles at the end of the video (if you got to see the video, having trouble uploading it), meaning it's venting poorly. Next I'm going to play with raising and lowering the 'P' trap to see if that does anything. I also want to get the water level in the sink drain lower, so it's not visible. If no change, then I'll remove the vent cap, again to see if that affects the air bubbles. If none of that works, I think I will try the HEPA unit, really nothing to loose at that point, except if the HEPA doesn't work I'll have cut the drain line all up and it'll have to be restored if I go back to the 'P' trap. It's challenging puzzle.

[KRedburn]

Looking at the geometry of the p trap to drain pipe I would say that the water in the p-trap will be just below the bottom of the sink outlet. The ptrap water will be same level as the bottom of the drain line to wall connection.
On your video it seems to be working correctly as how it is installed. To get a "faster" drain you would have to move the Y connection in the wall down


Just my 2 cents.

[bclemens]

I agree...I think it is working like they all work. Moving the Pee trap down and the Y would certainly give you more drop and less likely hood to fill up in the first place while losing usable storage below the sink.

All sinks will bubble like that if you fill them, So I assume that your concern is why does it fill in the first place...and I would then agree with an earlier statement...we have really shorted the tail piece (versus residential) in order to get more usable storage. Which shortens the drop/gravity, which reduces the start of the Pee-trap draining in the first place.

[caseymyers]

Don’t forget as I mentioned earlier we did move the ‘Y’ down and the had no effect, the flow and air bubbles remain.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by caseymyers

Don’t forget as I mentioned earlier we did move the ‘Y’ down and the had no effect, the flow and air bubbles remain.

yes, but you're talking 1/2" or so to get slope. I'm talking 6" so that the standing water in the pee-trap is well below the drain.

You have to build enough pressure on the drain side of the p-trap, before there is enough to go over the edge and actually drain. I think with the P-trap being so high...that action is delayed. Moving it down 6" or so, means 6" of water column to create that pressure before it starts to back up into the bowl.

[caseymyers]

I agree completely. I actually think the column of water pressure you describe might be the problem. Perhaps drop the ‘Y’, drop the P trap and the issue goes away? If that water was 3” or 6” below the sink drain would you even notice bubbling or a bit of slow flow? It’s going in for service in a couple weeks I’m going to ask the dealers opinion and see if he’ll tackle the issue.

[Wrangler4X4]

I see this thread is growing; but is there a resolution?

I hadn't camped for a couple weeks, so when I went into the Bathroom I was surprised to still see water in Bathroom sink drain- it was about an inch below the metal screen- the regular drain stopper/screen was already out. After using the bathroom sink the water level increased to about a half inch and this is the normal level- a half inch below the sink bowl.

I don't normally use the sink, it's past slow- I really haven't used the sink. With the slow drain- soap scum or toothpaste residue and knowing that it doesn't drain.

I figured I'd get to it eventually, So I looked at the plumbing and it looks like the drain tube has a constant slope; but I think the water level in drain is above the drain tube.

Is there a resolution without tearing wall apart?

[BLT4SPD]

From a scientific stand-point, I find this issue interesting. We have 2 different floor plans that have put the bathrooms in a different place, the sink in different places, the drain piping in different place and the vent stack in a different place and we are experiencing the same issue. Why is that?

In my 35DB, I don’t have nearly amount of drain length to play with as what Casey has shown that he had to play with. Adjusting the slope (if needed) would be very challenging given the extremely short distance between the drain and the wall/vent stack. Here is what my sink drain arrangement looks like:

[BLT4SPD]

Here is a video of my sink draining. You can see how (very) little time it takes to start backing up. This is without the strainer in the drain and this sink hasn’t been used in 3-4 days, so this is about as good as it will ever get:

[bclemens]

I think that is going to be the nature of the beast, unless you lower the whole assembly down. That allows more water to sit in the column and get the P-trap rolling. The down side is reduced storage capacity.

Anyone have a DX3? I think that one has a mechanical stopper, which pushes the P-trap DOWN a ways for the mechanical stopper to work. That column of water will have enough weight to push (and in return siphon) the water from the trap before coming up into the sink .

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by bclemens

I think that is going to be the nature of the beast, unless you lower the whole assembly down. That allows more water to sit in the column and get the P-trap rolling. The down side is reduced storage capacity.

Based solely on the pictures that Casey has provided from his DS and comparing them to what I have in our DB, I'd say that we have a fairly decent column of water above the P-Trap. Obviously not the same as in a sticks-and-bricks because we don't have the mechanical stopper, but certainly more than the DS.

Anyway....it's not a huge deal in the grand scheme of things, just another one of life's little oddities.