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Old 04-27-2018, 04:04 PM   #1
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battery died every night

Forest River Forums - steve32409's Album: electric panel - Picture have a big battery draw when nothing is on and it is this # 4 fuse ( can make out refrig but cant figure out those other two ? and what they do ? thanks
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Old 04-27-2018, 04:19 PM   #2
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L P R F ? liquid propane refrigerator? is your fridge run on both?
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Old 04-27-2018, 04:22 PM   #3
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Looks like fridge and support to the fridge igniter when on liquid propane using 12V. If thats correct I wouldn't think thats a big draw on the battery. Might want to test the battery.....
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Old 04-27-2018, 05:02 PM   #4
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the refrigerator is off and with that fuse in it is showing 1.34 amp draw and when I pull that # 4 out it only pulls .08 ? ( the battery is almost new 200 amp and at night with nothing on but the frig and will go from 12.8 to 10.5 in about 7 hrs. ? )
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Old 04-27-2018, 05:51 PM   #5
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Well, something is not right.... and I'm not sure the number 4 fuse/load is completely to blame. To begin, once a battery is drawn down to 11.5v, its dead. If you're drawing the battery voltage down repeatedly to 10.5, that is not good for your new battery. I suppose its possible that the battery has been weakened and even a small amount of parasitic draw is killing it.

There are plenty of others here on the forum smarter than I on what might be causing your problem and hopefully someone will chime in and offer assistance.
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Old 04-27-2018, 06:02 PM   #6
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I have a card like that I keep , that came with the battery and wondered if that 10.5 was an accurate reading or not - but it was dead every morning ( would start the engine up and it would fix things really fast ?
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Old 04-27-2018, 06:14 PM   #7
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Does the fridge have a fan in the outside unit?
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Old 04-27-2018, 06:37 PM   #8
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I do not have your trailer but I found on mind a 2017 Dometic DM 2652 fridge. There is a door header that draw current even when unit is on gas only. Look at the schematic. I disconnected the door header ( put in a switch in line ) and here are some number. Before the mod with fridge on 1.65 amp, With fridge off 0.215 amp, with door heater disconnected(Left only parasitic drains), Fridge on gas 0.475 amp. This is on a 2017 Dometic DM 2652 fridge.
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Old 04-27-2018, 06:47 PM   #9
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a 1.34 amp draw on a fully charged battery will not pull it down to 10.5 volts unless the battery is the size of a lawn more tractor battery...

I would take the battery out, have it load tested at an auto parts store then with those results you may have proof that your battery is NO GOOD and take it back to where you got it from...
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Old 04-27-2018, 07:23 PM   #10
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Its possible that your fridge is equiped with a door heater (as described above) and that is "helping" to draw down your battery. However, I'm guessing that your battery is damaged from repeatedly being drawn down and cannot hold a charge for very long.

Door heater disconnect: http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...rol-43475.html
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Old 04-27-2018, 09:25 PM   #11
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Ill have the battery checked but it weighs 112lbs.( maybe wife can help carry it ? ) / no heater in the door / my main concern was that the battery drain is 1.34 amp with absolutely nothing turned on but when I pull that #4 fuse out , it drops to a perfect .08 draw on the battery
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Old 04-27-2018, 09:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
but it weighs 112lbs
that is a lot for 1 single 12 V battery... I suppose if it is truly 200 Ah it might weigh that much

FROM GOOGLE search
Quote:
For example, an average automotive battery might have a capacity of about 70 amp-hours, specified at a current of 3.5 amps. This means that the amount of time this battery could continuously supply a current of 3.5 amps to a load would be 20 hours (70 amp-hours / 3.5 amps)
Using this same logic a 1.4 amp draw should discharge your battery in something like 140 hours.

your battery is certainly damaged... maybe purchase a Smart-De-sulphater charger to try and get some of the capacity back if you get no satisfaction from your battery dealer.
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Old 04-27-2018, 10:06 PM   #13
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Here's a pic of the wiring diagram of a DM2652 showing the door heater. This is an older one that had an ON/OFF switch by the door.

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Here's a pic of mine, Item K is still the heater, but you can see there is no switch to turn it OFF/ON. It's always ON:

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Check the diagram on YOUR fridge to see if you have it.
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Old 04-27-2018, 10:30 PM   #14
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Here's a pic of mine, Item K is still the heater, but you can see there is no switch to turn it OFF/ON. It's always ON:

Attachment 169763

Check the diagram on YOUR fridge to see if you have it.[/QUOTE]

Just checked and Yes , I have K ( so is this heater in the door drawing power even when the frig is off ? - That would explain it all but would think the frig would have to be turned on for this heater to be on ?
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Old 04-27-2018, 11:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve32409 View Post
Here's a pic of mine, Item K is still the heater, but you can see there is no switch to turn it OFF/ON. It's always ON:

Attachment 169763

Check the diagram on YOUR fridge to see if you have it.
Just checked and Yes , I have K ( so is this heater in the door drawing power even when the frig is off ? - That would explain it all but would think the frig would have to be turned on for this heater to be on ?[/QUOTE]

You would think it would be off if the fridge is off, but I'm not certain of that.

I do know it draws 0.5 amps.

I've attached a document on disabling it.
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File Type: pdf Refer door heater switch mod.pdf (345.8 KB, 59 views)
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Old 04-28-2018, 03:50 AM   #16
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By looking at the diagram, if you turn fridge off, and open door light should not work, if it does something in circuit board is bad. Heater and fridge lite on same wires.
Good luck.
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Old 04-28-2018, 08:42 AM   #17
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'but it was dead every morning ( would start the engine up and it would fix things really fast ?"

No way, it takes time to fully recharge a battery to 100% full, many hours 5 or 6 at least.

I suspect the batt was discharged and is not being recharged enough .

A std 10A auto charger with a 120v source overnight might be first attempt at fully recharging.
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Old 04-28-2018, 08:57 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wvram View Post
By looking at the diagram, if you turn fridge off, and open door light should not work, if it does something in circuit board is bad. Heater and fridge lite on same wires.
Good luck.
That's a good way to test it (and I would do it if my rig wasn't in storage). And while it may be a good assumption, the wiring diagram neither supports nor refutes that conclusion.

12VDC power goes through the thermofuse and then into the board at J4. It comes out of the board at J2 to go to the door heater and light, BUT there's nothing showing what actually happens on the board. So it COULD go through the switch first OR there could be a direct connection from from pin J4 to pin J2.

If someone had a pic of the board circuit, that would help. Or actually did your test.
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Old 04-28-2018, 09:04 AM   #19
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As mentioned, I would be looking at the battery if starting the engine fixed it really fast. Trying to charge a very weak battery by idling the engine does not work well.
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Old 04-28-2018, 11:46 AM   #20
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One last try - charged it up fully with a late model and quality charger , over night . put back in Rev - turned on frig and some small lights , checking about every 20 min. - looked really good for about 2 hours and then next time it was on 10.58 ? - so will take out and have it checked ( less than 1 year old and paid $500 ) oh well ! thanks everyone
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