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Old 04-24-2017, 07:27 AM   #1
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Bungee cords for residential 3 door refrigerators

I have a 2014 DX3 RB. Dynamax may have solved this problem by now.
Don't know if others have had the same problem with using bungee cords to hold the doors and freezer drawer closed while traveling but I have found a solution.
The same tech that very successfully replaced my Coleman ACs with Atwoods also fixed the refrigerator problem. He installed snap clips like the ones on the drawers under the booth seats. My wife is a small person and she has no problem opening and closing the doors. They have now been road tested. No more bungee cords, YEAClick image for larger version

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Old 04-24-2017, 08:37 AM   #2
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The issue is always the warranty for the fridge. We're not supposed to put holes in the door and if you do they try and claim its voids the warranty. I disagree with this because a hole in the door has nothing to do with a bad compressor and I think federal case law supports me on this.

Having said that, our solution was to install a metal plate with a threaded knob that uses existing hinge holes. So we have gotten rid of the bungee's. The plastic clips are a nice idea...but our guys were still trying to find a solution that did not add holes.

I'll see about getting a set of part numbers in case anyone else wants to add the threaded rod. Save the bungee's for a tarp as they were meant.
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Old 04-24-2017, 09:15 AM   #3
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This is what we use now.
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:04 AM   #4
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I bought a strap made for kayaks, it has a d-ring clip on both sides and has a buckle for tightening in the middle. The buckle has a rubber backing. Cheap and easy, no holes in the fridge.
[URL][http://www.austinkayak.com/products/18939/Sea-to-Summit-Carabiner-Tie-Down-Strap-13-ft-Pair.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_cam paign=Shopping:%20ACK%20PLA&scid=scplp18939_16010_ 1&sc_intid=18939_16010_1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwxPbHBRCdxJL F3qen3dYBEiQAMRyxS1_nPBT1FGOVvjEJoJ1HzEEB2zslTRM5Z lcvWEc1OIcaAlzV8P8HAQ/URL]
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:21 PM   #5
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3 door fridge

We just wrapped some Velcro around the fridge handles and put a soft sided hassock and the plastic trash can between the freezer drawer and the closed slide wall
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:22 PM   #6
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I use the small bungie cords with a ball on the end, think they are designed for tarps. Works great.
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:27 PM   #7
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I guess I should wait but I can't hold back.

I've been Beta Tester for a device that solves this problem. Guy here is making them in his garage. I tested one in a week camping, 400 mile one way trip, last week and it works great. Fridge Fixer.

You can order one at:
ReCubed.Orders@gmail.com

Here are pics and description of the device.

Here is a pic of it installed. You use the existing screws in the inside of your refrig.......take them out, install the device, and put them back in. It does not interfere with the door at all.



Here is same picture but a close-up.



Here is what it looks like installed (As you would ride down the road):


And here is what it looks like as you are in the camper using the refrigerator. The block that holds it has magnets to stick onto the refrig door to keep it out of the way till you are again in transit.


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Old 04-24-2017, 12:33 PM   #8
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Forgot.........cost is $29.50 I think he charges.....no website yet.........introductory price. $39.50 regular price. Plus $4.50 shipping charge.
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:46 PM   #9
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Made this. Cost zero. Works like a charm.
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Old 04-24-2017, 04:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sterlingsilver View Post
Made this. Cost zero. Works like a charm.
Attachment 135760


Looks like many are trying to find a solution. The U shaped one seems the simplest but they all require you to take something off the door to open it, unless I don't understand The Dynamax solution.
Inconvenient if someone just wants to get a drink or snack while on the road.

I sympathize with the warranty issues but I still like my solution the best.
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Old 04-24-2017, 04:49 PM   #11
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This requires no drilling or mods to the fridge. Only is used while driving. Not while preparing food or camping. Have also found that loose items on the fridge shelves should be in plastic trays to avoid surprizes when opening. Caution, contents may have shifted in flight.
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Old 04-24-2017, 07:22 PM   #12
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From what I can tell, what is best for a particular user is highly dependent on if you have a trailer or a coach.

If you have a trailer, you don't need to access the fridge in route. If you have a coach, you want something easy to access in transit.

I've seen several manufacturers drill the cabinet latches into the fridges. They do work great, but they also frequently fail. If you go this route, I'd recommend carrying some spares. Personally, I don't want to drill into my fridge.

I've seen the upside down "U" in a few places. It is a very clever design, but I need something my kids can access easily in route.

I definitely agree with SterlingSilver - using some kind of bin is a definite must! I've used the "Fridge and Freeze Binz" and they work great, but they do tend to fall on opening the fridge. I'm going to try adding some little angle brackets to the shelves to hold the binz in place.

Lots of great ideas here! It's all up to each person to see what works best for them!

Love this Forum!!!
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Old 04-25-2017, 08:15 AM   #13
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Brian do you have a pic of that plate/threaded rod installed? I'm having trouble visualizing where it goes on the fridge
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:16 AM   #14
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The three door KitchenAid that came with my 2014 Primetime, came with a strap and buckle arrangement that hoos around the two top doors and pulls up form the freezer door, Never have had a problem in the three years we have owned the rig. Find a Primetime dealer and maybe you can get one.

We have more of a problem with stuff falling out and cannot find those spring loaded expandable refrigerator bars long enough
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:42 AM   #15
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I can get one...but that knob is only for the 2 door 16cu ft fridge, not any of the 3 door ones.

It installs on the handle side. There are holes there already for some reason with screws in them. Pull those screws, set the plate and screw them back in. Its right in between the fridge and freezer door, just to the right of the handle.
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Old 04-25-2017, 10:54 AM   #16
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Iiiiiinteresting. I've got the 16 cu fut 2 Dr actually (saw the subject on the thread after posting). Would be very interested in getting a hold of one of those. Email parts be the best way?
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Old 04-25-2017, 11:06 AM   #17
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Yes. I think I listed the part #'s. The bracket is custom made for us, two others we buy from a supplier. But the whole kit would be needed. I actually spec'd in a felt washer behind the knob so it did't scratch the fridge, but I don't think they ever found one and as long as you're not torquing it down like crazy, it barely touches the fridge door.

I have another one on my desk. LAMP HC-85SS that is really nice, but the door would take one for the freezer and one for the fridge. sliding lock however.

https://www.amazon.com/Sugatsune-HC-.../dp/B00ED5WQDM
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Old 04-25-2017, 11:32 AM   #18
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Heh I actually have one of those in my box of things to installed. Bought it after our last conversation. Thinking about getting my hands on your custom dealie and making a decision from there.
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Old 04-25-2017, 11:37 AM   #19
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The cam latch is really nice and really well built. I like it because its a quick flip and you're in. It does require a screw into the fridge, but I'm ok with that and one per door. (They're not cheap)

The threaded rod is one item to cover both, no extra holes. I don't like that if you want something quick you have to thread it on or off, but how often are you getting into the fridge in transit? it's also coarse threaded, so its not that many turns.

We still bungie our 3 door...just because it goes from side to side and is easier to reach and a threaded would be lower down and tougher to see the nut to thread into. The cam latches I don't think would work on a door like that.

So I'm torn too.
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Old 04-25-2017, 11:48 AM   #20
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Hmmm... maybe I'll take a closer look at the cam latch now.
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