Dead New Batteries, no power at all - help

viperdave · 03-26-2018, 11:18 AM

I have my2016 DX3 plugged in all the time in my shop. Went in to get something and everything was dead. I removed wires and tried to charge separately with a charger (agm friendly). They took no charge. I bought all brand new batteries for house and coach ($1500). Installed, thought the inverter/converter were set, power in and charging. Went back a few days later and batteries were drained. Went in today and there is absolutely no power coming into the coach. House batteries show 4V. Coach batteries are still 12V.

When I plug in the coach to shore power I hear the 'clunk' in the coach that is normal when you plug in. The stair light comes on when the door opens but that is the only light that comes on. Intrex (not sure of spelling) control panel is powerless. No battery isolater switches are off but other than that what is the secret for finding out why I'm not charging and shore power is not making it in. Thanks for any help!

Dave

cavie · 03-26-2018, 11:31 AM

Check the main circuit breaker in your electric panel. Remove the cover and see if you have power to the main breakers. I have to ASSUME the clunk you hear is the transfer switch. So something is going in. Unplug the shore power at the coach and check voltage. have to assume the stair light is on the chassis battery.

viperdave · 03-26-2018, 01:24 PM

I will check today but it runs my entire 60x120 shop with lots of power so I assume its all good but stranger things have happened.

What is the best way to check to see where the power is disappearing if we assume full power is getting to the coach?

So many places and fuses in these things.

Thanks,
Dave

cavie · 03-26-2018, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by viperdave

I will check today but it runs my entire 60x120 shop with lots of power so I assume its all good but stranger things have happened.

What is the best way to check to see where the power is disappearing if we assume full power is getting to the coach?

So many places and fuses in these things.

Thanks,
Dave

Were not going to assume anything. You are gonna check the power at the coach hook up first. Then your gonna check the transfer switch if you have one. (Both sides) then your gonna check the main breaker. One step at a time in order.

**bclemens** · 03-26-2018, 01:30 PM

First place I would look is to make sure the Inverter is set properly. By far and away that is the most common issue I have seen. When power is pulled, the inverter/charger reverts back to default factory settings. Normally they have "Search Mode" enabled. that doesn't work.

The next stop would be the Trombetta charging solenoid, 3rd would be the B.I.R.D.

**bclemens** · 03-26-2018, 01:36 PM

And of course all the other stuff.
In checking the transfer switch, I think that defaults to shore power. So if the issue is there...it should work on one or the other. Either shore or generator.

You should be able to hit the emergency start switch and at least fire up the gen. Does that then power everything?

**bclemens** · 03-26-2018, 01:38 PM

Also, what about the disconnect in the electrical bay?

houstonstroker · 03-26-2018, 02:12 PM

First thing you need is a digital volt meter. Even a free and cheap Harbor Freight version will work.

viperdave · 03-26-2018, 02:40 PM

Ok, confirmed 240 to shore connect plug
Confirmed 240 to transfer switch. Both side. Confirmed 120v to each wire going to each side of 50amp breaker in coach fuse panel. No power to inverter/converter and I reset that breaker and I have 120v to each side of breaker there too.

What is next down the line?

Quote:

Originally Posted by cavie

Check the main circuit breaker in your electric panel. Remove the cover and see if you have power to the main breakers. I have to ASSUME the clunk you hear is the transfer switch. So something is going in. Unplug the shore power at the coach and check voltage. have to assume the stair light is on the chassis battery.

cavie · 03-26-2018, 02:45 PM

check the 2 30 amp main fuses in the converter.

viperdave · 03-26-2018, 03:05 PM

L1 and l2 on right side both have 120v. L1 and L2 on right side are dead. I have three 30 amp push style breakers that I pushed and they seem lifeless. No lights on converter. I thought someone found another breaker reset inside the box on some post. I think we found the culprit, but now what? Thanks again for your help!!!

QUOTE=cavie;1764714]check the 2 30 amp main fuses in the converter.[/QUOTE]

**bclemens** · 03-26-2018, 03:08 PM

Which converter do you have?

viperdave · 03-26-2018, 03:14 PM

[xantrex sw 3012

QUOTE=bclemens;1764732]Which converter do you have?[/QUOTE]

cavie · 03-26-2018, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by viperdave

L1 and l2 on right side both have 120v. L1 and L2 on right side are dead. I have three 30 amp push style breakers that I pushed and they seem lifeless. No lights on converter. I thought someone found another breaker reset inside the box on some post. I think we found the culprit, but now what? Thanks again for your help!!!

QUOTE=cavie;1764714]check the 2 30 amp main fuses in the converter.

[/QUOTE]

Right side, right side . Who's on first? Is your main breaker in the middle of the panel? If so, L1 is on the left side and L2 is on the right side. Not every other one like at home. If 1/2 the panel is dead then the breaker is tripped or bad. Turn the main off and back on. If the main is on either end of the panel then you will have L1 one every other slot. and L2 on every other slot.

joet19711 · 03-26-2018, 03:34 PM

Right side, right side . Who's on first?

You crack me up!!!!!!

joet19711 · 03-26-2018, 03:36 PM

<<<< Sorry couldn't help myself >>>>

Hsrvtime · 03-26-2018, 04:39 PM

You say inverter/converter, is it not an inverter/charger?

cavie · 03-26-2018, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hsrvtime

You say inverter/converter, is it not an inverter/charger?

Generators
Conventional generators have a motor attached to an alternator that produces electricity. The motor must run at a constant speed usually, 3600 rpm to produce the standard frequency of 60 cycle current. If the engine’s rpm fluctuates, so will the frequency of electric output.

Converters
Converters are powered by 120 v AC current and changes it to 12 v DC current. No motor involved. Except cooling fan.

Inverters
A traditional inverter is powered by a 12 volt battery and produces 120v AC at limited wattage. No motor involved. Commonly used in Motor homes and high-end 5th wheels. .

Inverter Generators

These are motor driven 3-phase generators that output AC current like most traditional generators, but that current is then converted to DC, and then “inverted” back to clean AC power and frequency

They are called “inverter generators” but since people tend to simplify terminology, “inverter generator” often gets changed, sometimes to “inverter” and sometimes to “generator” which leads to confusion as which one is being discussed. Both terms are commonly used to refer to inverter generators.

RV Randy · 03-26-2018, 08:30 PM

Did you say 240v to the inverter/converter? You should only have 120v coming in on the shore power cord albeit 50 amps.

Unplug the shore power and start your generator before you get into any of the more advanced trouble shooting. That will help you isolate what is good and what may be bad.

Hsrvtime · 03-27-2018, 06:18 AM

So Dynamax uses stand alone inverters (no charge function) and then converters? Makes no sense when the Motorhome industry standard is inverter/charges such as Magnum.

You may also like: