DX3 or Class A for boondocking

[coloradomtn]

Hi,

We’re long-time lurkers and getting ready to purchase either a Dynamax DX3 (optioned with the cab over bed) or an older class a diesel pusher like a Country Coach Allure or Foretravel U320 (37’ tag models).

We primarily boondock around OHV areas that have rain ruts, stutter bumps & uneven ground. We’re not talking about 4x4 trails. These roads are doable with a Honda Civic.

1. How much ground clearance does the DX3 have? We’ve read on this site that it has 10" at rest and 13” driving. We think class a's only have 8-10” but we have not been able to verify this. Any know?
2. Does adding 4x4 give the DX3 additional ground clearance and if so, how much? Are there other ways to add ground clearance?
3. How much does the DX3 locking diff help in boondocking situations?
4. Is the Freightliner M2 truck chassis better suited to dirt road driving over a Freightliner motorhome chassis?
5. Are there any other things that we’re not considering that give the DX3 an edge over the class a’s?

We’ve heard that the DX3 35' and 36’ models are being discontinued. Do you know approximately when the floor plan and specs for the 34FD will be available?

We will be part-timing (4-6 months at a time) and carrying two motorcycles (approx 750lbs combined) using a Hydralift and will be towing a Jeep Wrangler 2 door.

Thanks so much for your help!

[bclemens]

Specs on the 34KD will be out in the next month.

As for 4x4, we are no longer offering it as an option on the M2. Just too many obstacles, lead times for chassis, etc. It can take almost a year from order to finish.

[coloradomtn]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Specs on the 34KD will be out in the next month.

As for 4x4, we are no longer offering it as an option on the M2. Just too many obstacles, lead times for chassis, etc. It can take almost a year from order to finish.

Thanks, Brian for responding so fast!

We're excited to see the specs for the 34KD. Should we assume the new model is 34'? Do you know if it's double slides like the 36FK or single side like the 35DS?

No 4x4 offering makes that decision easy

Could you confirm if the ground clearance on the DX3 is 13" when driving?

[RV Randy]

My DX3 has a lot more ground clearance up front than my class A had. But the DX3 is long with a lot of over hang behind the rear axle so it's inclined to drag the hitch if you go up a steep incline.

[Webefine]

I have a DX3 36FK and use mine to go to OHV parks some have camping some are Boondocking. My biggest concern with ground clearance is my front jacks they are the lowest point. I am going to unbolt them and raise them up a couple holes, I may just have to use blocks under them occasionally. As far as the hitch dragging I modified my rear air bags so I can raise or lower the rear of the rig this helps with the hitch dragging in off road situation. I have used my diff lock on one occasion. I was set up sideways on a pretty good incline, when I went to leave I turned up hill and the inside tire started to spin in the grass. Locked in the diff lock and pulled right out, I also carry tire chains. I have never owned a A class but I work construction and I have seen trucks with the same chassis that the DX3 is built on go through some really rough terrain. One more thing I have also thought about adding air bags on the front just to gain some extra clearance for off road situations.

[bclemens]

THe 34KD is a blend of the FK and DS. Double slide, because that is more desirable, but with a washer and dryer.

[coloradomtn]

Originally Posted by RV Randy

My DX3 has a lot more ground clearance up front than my class A had. But the DX3 is long with a lot of overhang behind the rear axle so it's inclined to drag the hitch if you go up a steep incline.

Thanks for confirming you have more ground clearance up front over the class A. That's good news! Although we like the DX3 37TS floorplan best, we're inclined to go with the 35 or 36 to reduce the overhang and risk of dragging the hitch. With two motorcycles on the lift, we'll be adding another 4+ foot to the length of the rig. The motorcycle platform is raised 40" and the towbar extension is removable but we're estimating the lift will still add ~1ft of additional length at hitch level. We'd also like to keep the total length around 40' (rig & lift) so that we can fit in 40' national and state park sites.

[coloradomtn]

Originally Posted by Webefine

I have a DX3 36FK and use mine to go to OHV parks some have camping some are Boondocking. My biggest concern with ground clearance is my front jacks they are the lowest point. I am going to unbolt them and raise them up a couple holes, I may just have to use blocks under them occasionally. As far as the hitch dragging I modified my rear air bags so I can raise or lower the rear of the rig this helps with the hitch dragging in off road situation. I have used my diff lock on one occasion. I was set up sideways on a pretty good incline when I went to leave I turned up hill and the inside tire started to spin in the grass. Locked in the diff lock and pulled right out, I also carry tire chains. I have never owned a A class but I work construction and I have seen trucks with the same chassis that the DX3 is built on go through some really rough terrain. One more thing I have also thought about adding air bags on the front just to gain some extra clearance for off road situations.

Thanks for the heads up on the jacks. We'd likely want to raise the jacks and would also be fine using blocks. We read about your rear airbags mod and were most impressed with your design. We'd love to add an additional 4" of rear clearance especially given 4x4 is no longer an option. We live on a dirt road at 10,000 ft in Colorado so we think the diff lock may be useful if our driveway (small slope) is slippery early or late in the season.

[RV Randy]

Originally Posted by coloradomtn

Thanks for confirming you have more ground clearance up front over the class A. That's good news! Although we like the DX3 37TS floorplan best, we're inclined to go with the 35 or 36 to reduce the overhang and risk of dragging the hitch. With two motorcycles on the lift, we'll be adding another 4+ foot to the length of the rig. The motorcycle platform is raised 40" and the towbar extension is removable but we're estimating the lift will still add ~1ft of additional length at hitch level. We'd also like to keep the total length around 40' (rig & lift) so that we can fit in 40' national and state park sites.

When we would go to Moab in the Class A we would set up camp off the road but on relatively smooth dirt areas. Those with Class C's, even the Dodge or Ford based chassis, had no issues clearing the little bumps and dirt clods with their rigs, but I couldnt for fear of damaging the front fiberglass valance. The DX3 is much higher in the front for that purpose. Also, from the factory, the DX3 hitch is installed pretty low. Its an afternoon job to drill new holes and move the hitch cross arm up 3.5 to 4 inches. If you then cut back the side brackets for the cross arm that hang even lower, you increase your rear ground clearance by 5-6 inches. I did that on mine and I would say I can climb the same incline as my class A could now without dragging the hitch. With a 2" drop tongue flipped over with the ball mounted on the top, my hitch now tows the car trailer perfectly level and when I hook up the Jeep on the tow bar, it is perfectly level with the hitch.

[coloradomtn]

Originally Posted by bclemens

THe 34KD is a blend of the FK and DS. Double slide, because that is more desirable, but with a washer and dryer.

Wow, Brian! I can't believe you shared the floor plan for the 34KD. Thank you! A couple of comments/questions for you...

1. Love the kitchen extension and W/D!
2. It's a little hard to read the bed size. Is it 71*75? The hubby is 6'1" so any increase in bed size is a big plus.
3. Is the bumper to bumper length ~34' or more? The model number makes me think it's 34 but the floor plan makes me think it's more like 36'.
4. It's a little hard to tell from your screenshot but it looks like there is a big window above the kitchen sink. Is there? One of our reasons for picking the 35 over the 36 is to get a decent sized passenger window so we can see the campsite view so this would be a huge win for us.
5. The plan references a tv/entertainment system near the kitchen sink. Is this on a televator? If yes, I'm speechless.
6. Is there an option to have a 16 cu ft fridge?

Thanks again for sharing this info a month early!

[coloradomtn]

Originally Posted by RV Randy

When we would go to Moab in the Class A we would set up camp off the road but on relatively smooth dirt areas. Those with Class C's, even the Dodge or Ford based chassis, had no issues clearing the little bumps and dirt clods with their rigs, but I couldnt for fear of damaging the front fiberglass valance. The DX3 is much higher in the front for that purpose. Also, from the factory, the DX3 hitch is installed pretty low. Its an afternoon job to drill new holes and move the hitch cross arm up 3.5 to 4 inches. If you then cut back the side brackets for the cross arm that hang even lower, you increase your rear ground clearance by 5-6 inches. I did that on mine and I would say I can climb the same incline as my class A could now without dragging the hitch. With a 2" drop tongue flipped over with the ball mounted on the top, my hitch now tows the car trailer perfectly level and when I hook up the Jeep on the tow bar, it is perfectly level with the hitch.

Great to hear your Moab example, Randy! Moab and Fruita are two areas we like to visit. If you've ever been to Rabbit Valley (past Fruita) we'd like to be able to camp at the top of the hill opposite the OHV training track. We camp there currently in our 19' travel trailer and Dodge 2500 and would love to be able to find a rig capable of making that drive. We don't think a class A would make it (for the reasons you mentioned above) and have our fingers crossed that with a few mods a DX3 will.

When we install the Cruiserlift the OEM hitch is removed and the lift and an incorporated hitch is welded to the chassis frame. We've talked to Cruiserlift and Lambert Hitch in Denver who would do the install and they are both fairly confident they can install the hitch on a super c but would need to see photos of the rear of the chassis to confirm 100%. If you'd be open to taking a photo or two of the rear of your chassis that we could share with them we'd be very grateful. We'll be towing a two-door Jeep Wrangler so it's great to know you've been able to get it perfectly level.

[jkoenig24]

Originally Posted by RV Randy

My DX3 has a lot more ground clearance up front than my class A had. But the DX3 is long with a lot of over hang behind the rear axle so it's inclined to drag the hitch if you go up a steep incline.

THIS!

The verticle tail swing is what's going to cause you problems. On a 39'+ DX3, it will be VERY easy to drag a corner of a DX3 which is VERY likely to at least partially damage the fiberglass tail cap. I've seen newer DX3s that, at the back, had the traditional "extra clearance'. This problem was ESPECIALLY bad on the 2015 model year as Dynamax had ZERO "relief angle" built in. The relief angle doesn't look as nice but, adds a safety margin for the 13' of coach overhang aft of the rear axle. Note: a Class-A (or any other RV) that is built with a long overhang aft of the rear axle will have the same problem. Be aware of tail swing (both verticle AND horizontal) and you should be OK.

[grt1014]

Originally Posted by bclemens

THe 34KD is a blend of the FK and DS. Double slide, because that is more desirable, but with a washer and dryer.

Brian,
When do you think these will be rolling down the line?

[coloradomtn]

Originally Posted by jkoenig24

THIS!

On a 39'+ DX3, it will be VERY easy to drag a corner of a DX3 which is VERY likely to at least partially damage the fiberglass tail cap.

We like the extra space of the 39' DX3s but plan to stick with the 35' or 36' to reduce this concern.

We're also considering a shorter tag axle older class A like the Monaco below which is 38'. Country Coach also makes a 37' tag model. The tag axle reduces the departure angle significantly, gives us a tighter turning radius and adds extra carrying capacity to the rear axle for the motorcycle lift. We've heard that the average ground clearance on a class A is 8-10" so the DX3 is much better on this front but we're wondering if there is anything else about the M2 truck chassis that makes it better off-road over the class A chassis. Randy RV mentioned the class A approach angle and potentially hitting the fiberglass shell. We'd prefer the extra space of a 37' or 38' tag class A (we're traveling with two kids) but we'd hate to spend the $$ and find out that we need the super C to get to the places we want to camp.

Thanks again everyone for the input and help!

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by coloradomtn

Wow, Brian! I can't believe you shared the floor plan for the 34KD. Thank you! A couple of comments/questions for you...

1. Love the kitchen extension and W/D!
2. It's a little hard to read the bed size. Is it 71*75? The hubby is 6'1" so any increase in bed size is a big plus.
3. Is the bumper to bumper length ~34' or more? The model number makes me think it's 34 but the floor plan makes me think it's more like 36'.
4. It's a little hard to tell from your screenshot but it looks like there is a big window above the kitchen sink. Is there? One of our reasons for picking the 35 over the 36 is to get a decent sized passenger window so we can see the campsite view so this would be a huge win for us.
5. The plan references a tv/entertainment system near the kitchen sink. Is this on a televator? If yes, I'm speechless.
6. Is there an option to have a 16 cu ft fridge?

Thanks again for sharing this info a month early!

1. 71"x78". Tried to get as close to true kin size as possible.
2. It will be 36'
3. 36"x22" window in the kitchen
4. the entertainment center is the outside TV. Main TV is up front on the angle still, but the L-shape sofa should help for viewing.
5. 16cu ft fridge is standard. 12CU RV fridge would be the option.

PS. won't see this online until July-ish?

[coloradomtn]

Originally Posted by bclemens

1. 71"x78". Tried to get as close to true kin size as possible.
2. It will be 36'
3. 36"x22" window in the kitchen
4. the entertainment center is the outside TV. Main TV is up front on the angle still, but the L-shape sofa should help for viewing.
5. 16cu ft fridge is standard. 12CU RV fridge would be the option.

PS. won't see this online until July-ish?

78" length for the bed is great. Thanks for making this change!
L-shape sofa was a good idea to improve the TV viewing angle.

One last question... can you confirm the approx rear overhang and ground clearance, please? Given the wheelbase for the 35DS is 237" vs 268" for the 36' models I'm assuming that the 36' models actually have a smaller rear overhang but I'd appreciate it if you could confirm.

Thanks again for all your help, Brian! Your help along with others on this community is certainly making the Dynamax decision a lot easier

[bclemens]

Correct...the 36FK has a stock wheel base (268) and is about 36" shorter than the other models. That is the platform that the 34FK used.

[RV Randy]

Originally Posted by coloradomtn

We like the extra space of the 39' DX3s but plan to stick with the 35' or 36' to reduce this concern.

We're also considering a shorter tag axle older class A like the Monaco below which is 38'. Country Coach also makes a 37' tag model. The tag axle reduces the departure angle significantly, gives us a tighter turning radius and adds extra carrying capacity to the rear axle for the motorcycle lift. We've heard that the average ground clearance on a class A is 8-10" so the DX3 is much better on this front but we're wondering if there is anything else about the M2 truck chassis that makes it better off-road over the class A chassis. Randy RV mentioned the class A approach angle and potentially hitting the fiberglass shell. We'd prefer the extra space of a 37' or 38' tag class A (we're traveling with two kids) but we'd hate to spend the $$ and find out that we need the super C to get to the places we want to camp.

Thanks again everyone for the input and help!

I looked but I must have deleted the pictures I took of the rear frame rails at the factory before the rear cap was installed. The hitch just has 2 side plates that are welded to the frame and the cross piece that goes between them is just bolted on to these side plates. There is nothing else in the way and your hitch place will have no problem modifying this setup, just be sure everything electrical on the coach is totally disconnected and isolated from the frame before they do any welding.

And, it will be very easy for them to armor the rear end so any tail dragging does not catch the lip of the rear cap and damage any fiberglass. They can add in pieces of 4" heavy wall DOM tube on each side of the hitch that extend to the inner edge of each side of the cap. The tube will hang down about 1" lower than the bottom edge of the cap. The ends of the tube can be braced upward to the frame so they dont bend. This will act as a skid plate for the lower edge of the rear cap so nothing can catch on it and wont be visible unless you get down and look under the rig.

[coloradomtn]

Originally Posted by RV Randy

I looked but I must have deleted the pictures I took of the rear frame rails at the factory before the rear cap was installed. The hitch just has 2 side plates that are welded to the frame and the cross piece that goes between them is just bolted on to these side plates. There is nothing else in the way and your hitch place will have no problem modifying this setup, just be sure everything electrical on the coach is totally disconnected and isolated from the frame before they do any welding.

And, it will be very easy for them to armor the rear end so any tail dragging does not catch the lip of the rear cap and damage any fiberglass. They can add in pieces of 4" heavy wall DOM tube on each side of the hitch that extend to the inner edge of each side of the cap. The tube will hang down about 1" lower than the bottom edge of the cap. The ends of the tube can be braced upward to the frame so they dont bend. This will act as a skid plate for the lower edge of the rear cap so nothing can catch on it and wont be visible unless you get down and look under the rig.

Thanks, Randy for confirming the design of the rails. There is a 39' ft DX3 ~3 hours drive away. The nearest 36' is 800+ miles from us so you saved us a big drive either way. I'm a big fan of armoring up the rear cap and will be sure to share your suggestion with the lift hitch installer. Damaging the rear end is something we definitely want to avoid.

[Skyliner]

If you boondock, you will need a toad. Have you considered a 5th wheel so you can use your truck as a run about if you decide to do stuff in a nearby town while boondocking?