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07-08-2018, 02:36 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 155
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Factory screw in drain pipe under fridge.
Just got back from an awesome trip up to Rainey Lake. Lots of curious people everywhere complimenting our I3FW. I was cleaning it out tonight and when under the lav sink tending to its leaky mess I thought I smelled gas. This would have been odd since I had the tank shut off and was defrosting the reefer.
Curious, I popped of the kick plate for the furnace access and found the culprit- a factory framing screw driven right into the drain pipe for the lav and kitchen - emitting sewer gas - not bottle. This is no more than 10 inches from my poorly plumbed lav sink, and you can actually see that the is a pipe behind the framing, so how a Dynamax assembly worker did this is beyond my comprehension. Anyway I removed the screw, didn’t see too much rust on it.
My question is how should I repair this?
I have a terrible dealer for repair work, so I need to be able to DIY or have a plumber do it.
Access is very limited unless I cut holes in the wall under the lav sink.
Thanks in advance.
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07-08-2018, 04:51 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimetime
Just got back from an awesome trip up to Rainey Lake. Lots of curious people everywhere complimenting our I3FW. I was cleaning it out tonight and when under the lav sink tending to its leaky mess I thought I smelled gas. This would have been odd since I had the tank shut off and was defrosting the reefer.
Curious, I popped of the kick plate for the furnace access and found the culprit- a factory framing screw driven right into the drain pipe for the lav and kitchen - emitting sewer gas - not bottle. This is no more than 10 inches from my poorly plumbed lav sink, and you can actually see that the is a pipe behind the framing, so how a Dynamax assembly worker did this is beyond my comprehension. Anyway I removed the screw, didn’t see too much rust on it.
My question is how should I repair this?
I have a terrible dealer for repair work, so I need to be able to DIY or have a plumber do it.
Access is very limited unless I cut holes in the wall under the lav sink.
Thanks in advance.
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Being that it isn't pressurized I would just put a dab of silicone over the whole and let it cure for 24 hrs, that will seal it up...thats the easiest. After 24 hrs run the water and see if it's still leaking, should solve those dummies mistake.
__________________
Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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07-08-2018, 05:29 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Marysville, Ohio
Posts: 1,766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimetime
Just got back from an awesome trip up to Rainey Lake. Lots of curious people everywhere complimenting our I3FW. I was cleaning it out tonight and when under the lav sink tending to its leaky mess I thought I smelled gas. This would have been odd since I had the tank shut off and was defrosting the reefer.
Curious, I popped of the kick plate for the furnace access and found the culprit- a factory framing screw driven right into the drain pipe for the lav and kitchen - emitting sewer gas - not bottle. This is no more than 10 inches from my poorly plumbed lav sink, and you can actually see that the is a pipe behind the framing, so how a Dynamax assembly worker did this is beyond my comprehension. Anyway I removed the screw, didn’t see too much rust on it.
My question is how should I repair this?
I have a terrible dealer for repair work, so I need to be able to DIY or have a plumber do it.
Access is very limited unless I cut holes in the wall under the lav sink.
Thanks in advance.
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Your so close to Elkhart I’d take it to Greg and get all your plumbing issues repaired and any other punch list items while you there.
__________________
2008 Dynaquest 340xl
Bill and Carol
Retired mechanic
US Army Veteran 🇺🇸
Previous coach 2017 Isata 3RW
Also,3 Diesel pushers, 1Bvan, 2 class Cs
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07-13-2018, 07:54 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 155
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I tried the silicon. So far so good.
Great I idea about the factory repair, I did that last year for my loose awning and they were fantastic.
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10-31-2018, 10:51 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 155
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Still getting sewer smell when using bath fan
*early 2017 Isata 3 FW
I am still getting a bad sewer smell when exhausting the bathroom during showers. We tried cracking one window, two windows and opening the door it makes no difference. Smell is coming from under the lav sink.
Opened up the blank flush air gap, and there were a bunch of lady bugs that I cleaned out.
Next though is could sewer gas be pulled into the coach through the hole in the roof that the vent pipe travels through? Brian, before I unseal my vent cap (looks like the only way to inspect) do you know if your guys seal that void?
Other possibilities are: separated vent pipe section in the wall, leak at the tank?
Is the vent for grey and black tank or just grey?
This makes the nightly shower routine for the family kind of stressful for me.
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11-01-2018, 04:49 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale Ma
Posts: 4,823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimetime
*early 2017 Isata 3 FW
I am still getting a bad sewer smell when exhausting the bathroom during showers. We tried cracking one window, two windows and opening the door it makes no difference. Smell is coming from under the lav sink.
Opened up the blank flush air gap, and there were a bunch of lady bugs that I cleaned out.
Next though is could sewer gas be pulled into the coach through the hole in the roof that the vent pipe travels through? Brian, before I unseal my vent cap (looks like the only way to inspect) do you know if your guys seal that void?
Other possibilities are: separated vent pipe section in the wall, leak at the tank?
Is the vent for grey and black tank or just grey?
This makes the nightly shower routine for the family kind of stressful for me.
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By "blank flush air gap" are you referring to the Air Admittance valve for the sink drain? If so it is for the gray only. They do stick open from time to time. You can buy a new one at HD/Lowes.
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11-01-2018, 07:47 AM
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#7
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bristol, IN
Posts: 18,979
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Those MaxAir fans draw a lot of air out. Could it be pull in through the roof? Who knows...
I will say, the 360 Siphon vent, that is the inverted dome shaped cover on the vent pipe through the roof, has a plastic pipe inside of it. That pipe ships loose with the 360 siphon, you're supposed to push it into the 360, then mount the 360 on the vent pipe. I have seen one before where that extra piece gets left off, since it was not attached in the box. I'm not sure if that would let sewer gas in, or let it get drawn, down the wall, and up through the lav base....but it might make some sense in theory. That fan is looking for make up air....and if there is not enough, it will draw it from wherever it can.
If you look at this "install video" he refers to it as "the funnel"
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11-01-2018, 08:49 AM
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#8
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,269
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This stuff is amazing and works great!
Saved me from a leaking brass "in wall" pipe that was impossible to replace/repair without it costing me a small fortune in remodeling.
https://www.fernco.com/plumbing/pow-r-repair/pow-r-wrap
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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11-01-2018, 09:59 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 155
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Thanks. I thinks it is grey tank related, seems worse if the dump valve is open when connected at campground.
Few more questions:
- Is there a plumbing diagram for the 24FW available?
- do you have to drop the tank to inspect the gasket?
- how many pipes go into the tanks (just drain, or drain + vent?)
Gotta get this figured out, this is the first trip this has happened on in the last 18 months.
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11-01-2018, 10:10 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimetime
Thanks. I thinks it is grey tank related, seems worse if the dump valve is open when connected at campground.
Few more questions:
- Is there a plumbing diagram for the 24FW available?
- do you have to drop the tank to inspect the gasket?
- how many pipes go into the tanks (just drain, or drain + vent?)
Gotta get this figured out, this is the first trip this has happened on in the last 18 months.
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I'm not a super experienced RV guy, but something in your last comment hit me. Are you leaving your dump valves open when you are connected at the campground? I've been told to leave them closed until your holding tanks are getting full, then dump them. Don't leave them open for the sewage to drain straight into the campground system.
__________________
Tom and Becki
2018 Isata 5 30FW 4X4
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11-01-2018, 10:20 AM
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#11
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bristol, IN
Posts: 18,979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimetime
Thanks. I thinks it is grey tank related, seems worse if the dump valve is open when connected at campground.
Few more questions:
- Is there a plumbing diagram for the 24FW available?
- do you have to drop the tank to inspect the gasket?
- how many pipes go into the tanks (just drain, or drain + vent?)
Gotta get this figured out, this is the first trip this has happened on in the last 18 months.
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1. yes
2. yes...I doubt that is your issue or you would have sewage potentially in the compartments when you traveled.
3. see 1.
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11-01-2018, 12:51 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,990
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Can leave the gray only open but it’s best to build a trap that’ll hold water into your hose to guard against sewer gasses
I’m assuming it’s already been checked but make sure all your traps are full of water. I’ve had this happen after a bumpy ride or particularly energetic dump that pulls them dry
__________________
2016 Dynamax DX3 - Big Blue
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