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Old 06-13-2016, 12:12 PM   #1
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Fridge Securement

Has anybody done any after market mods to their fridge doors to secure them a bit better than the bungee? On the last trip, we had an an episode with a tighter than expected entrance ramp and a Tupperware full of coleslaw that resulted in a bit of a mess. Wife said the door swung open a good 6-8"

Now I will certainly take some responsibility for the driving and maybe even packing of the fridge, but just wondering if there's not a more secure solution.

Thinking something along these lines could be done without looking too ugly?
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:20 PM   #2
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Ours came with a snap on strap, like the ones that hold the dinette chairs in place, that goes through all 3 doors. It holds all doors tightly shut if pulled tightly. I'd think they are available many places.
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:31 PM   #3
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There are some nice metal slide locks that work...the problem is, as part of a CYA from the fridge guys, they say that putting holes in the door voids the warranty. Samsung is the only one I know that has allowed holes.

What I would suggest, and something we're looking at on the line, is if you have the 2 door fridge with handles. Take the hooks from there they are now (top and bottom)...mount them on the side panel wall (handle side of the fridge) and use a MUCH smaller bungie, just hooking the handles instead of the doors. The long one, I think has too much play.
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:36 PM   #4
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Hmmmm yeah. You might be onto something. Even a cinch strap might work then to take the bungie aspect out of it altogether. I think you're right that the real problem is how much the long one extends.

Figured as much with the CYA on drilling into the fridge. Every now and then its easier to be the consumer

I don't think there are any coils in the door though?
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:41 PM   #5
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No. There's nothing in the door that we would need to worry about. I might push the issue a bit. Supposedly, federal law says they can't void the warranty for installation of aftermarket parts unless they specifically cause an issue.

Although I'm not sure I want to deal with lack of back in the door either...rivets on the door side, screws on the wall side.

Either that or a short bungie with a stretch of 1", not 6"
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:43 PM   #6
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Heh I run into that "law" all the time on my Jeep. Good in theory, not so cut and dry in practice. Lots of arguing still to be done.

That's what I had thought though. Attach to the door and to the cabinet should be fairly safe.

Going to toy with some strap arrangements too.

These latches are pretty slick though!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...f_rd_i=desktop
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:46 PM   #7
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For attaching to thin sheet metal these work well on the Jeep:

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Old 06-13-2016, 12:55 PM   #8
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That is a nice latch and looks like the one we were going to use that was attached to a Samsung fridge
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Old 06-13-2016, 08:15 PM   #9
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bought a kayak strap with d rings on the ends. you can adjust the tightness and it has a nice rubber backing on the buckle. door does not move.

http://www.austinkayak.com/products/...0-ft-Pair.html
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Old 06-13-2016, 08:20 PM   #10
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Try Velcro.
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Old 06-18-2016, 02:11 PM   #11
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We had our door fly open several times on our first 3+week trip, what a joke it was to ad Bungee Cord, we had a few other issues as well.
I'll be starting a thread when l get home to list all the issues we had on our first trip using out "NEW" coach.
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:53 PM   #12
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I followed halla's advice and bought the same kayak strap. Bought two so that I can use on my kayaks when not rv'ing. they are super nice straps and work great. Nice rubber pads so no scratching. The hooks will pull out of the wood before any issue with the straps.

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Old 08-03-2016, 07:59 PM   #13
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After reading these posts, as soon as we got our 36DS, right away we changed the way the large bungee worked. We still use it from top to bottom of the fridge as it was designed but we loop it around both handles before we hook it up on the bottom. We've never had the door open with the bungee run that way.
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Old 08-03-2016, 08:02 PM   #14
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Viper Dave, I picked up smaller d ring clips for the ends at Ace Hardware. Easier to hook up. Glad you like it. Almost 10,000 miles no fridge accidents.


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Old 08-03-2016, 08:08 PM   #15
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great idea! will add that to the list
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Old 08-03-2016, 09:16 PM   #16
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After having our doors ajar with the factory bungee inplace, we added a 8" square dense foam block that slips snugly into the freezer handle and extends to block the dual frig doors. Easy to place and remove, and after 20k miles have not had another event. We also use the factory bungee.
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Old 08-04-2016, 07:56 AM   #17
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We're working on a threaded knob right now that uses factory fridge holes. As soon as I see the photo, I'll let everyone know.
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Old 08-04-2016, 10:44 AM   #18
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Not to poo poo the threaded rod idea, but... Our Thor Super C we had before we upgraded had a threaded rod between the fridge and the freezer (residential fridge). When the RV turned corners or tilted on some highways, the fridge flexed just enough to fly open. The 2 dozen eggs for the Easter trip flew all over the place, (glad I was driving, my wife was not)

But I added a soft plastic washer about 4" in diameter to the knob to keep the flexing from causing an issue.

To be honest, I like the Dynamax way better and the strap keeps things really secure.
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Old 08-10-2016, 11:29 AM   #19
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I just switched out the elastic band with a para-cord with a plastic adjustable clips. Just got back from our first major trip and had a couple mishaps with the bungee cord provided. First we went around a corner and every thing in the fridge load shifted opening up the door and everything flying out. Second, my wife was putting on the bungee strap on the fridge getting ready to travel. The bungee snapped at hit her in the eye. Luckily it did not cause a trip to the ER, but was extremely painful for her. You can pick up the para-cord with the adjustable hooks at Home depot for a few dollars.
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Old 08-10-2016, 11:31 AM   #20
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Here are the clips
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