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Old 07-19-2018, 09:01 AM   #41
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1. I'll look into the quick connect...and I'm not trying to dismiss it, but that would be a 3 minute add of a washer or two to space it off. I certainly know that you shouldn't have to do it, just mentioning that as I think a lot of people stew over things and it builds frustration when this should be fun. I am just coming from my own personal opinion...something like that I would add some washers and move on.

2. The dream dinette table was sized by the supplier for a quartz top on our big trucks. They didn't think about the smaller tables that are much lighter. So they left the same gas strut in place. We dropped it once and I just had them drop it again...as I told our guys...it is supposed to ASSIST you in brining up the top. Not bring it up for you like a hatch back.

If you shoot me a PM with your address, I will gladly sent a lighter strut. You can take the strut off for the time being...it just makes it a little heavier to bring UP into position.

By all means post the pdf and I'll gladly take a look at the rest.
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Old 07-19-2018, 09:09 AM   #42
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Bc
Most of the issues were fixed by me and your guys at the factory Travis was even in there helping when I brought it back last year.
I added a spacer after going to use it and couldn't grill my steak.
Talk about issues festering
I'll sent you my address.
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Old 07-20-2018, 01:26 PM   #43
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It is a 2017 GT3 30X3
The tank shows 2/3 immediately after emptying.
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Old 07-20-2018, 01:29 PM   #44
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It is a 2017 GT3 30X3
The tank shows 2/3 immediately after emptying.
Sorry, I don't have anything to do with the FR3 division. So I can't really comment on what their plumbing schematic looks like. That would be the Georgetown Class A guys.
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Old 07-20-2018, 01:39 PM   #45
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Thanks. I did not realize that the forums are segmented by brand / type.
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Old 07-20-2018, 02:18 PM   #46
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No worries. I used to be with the Sunseeker/Forester division, so we will often have people crossing forums for questions or help. That is just one I cannot help with because I don't have access to their specs or prints. It doesn't mean, you don't have the same type of issue....but I am a little more in the dark in tell you how to troubleshoot.
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Old 07-20-2018, 06:27 PM   #47
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Air gaps under the sink have been around for decades. Its how they vent island sinks. So I think that is more a fear of the (commonly) unknown than actual history of issues.

Probably just my Dark Ages paranoia. I keep stuff a long time and clearly remember systems. Like my first tt where the black tank was a diaper pail in a Hassock, in a closet right next to "ice box". With NO VENT.
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Old 07-31-2018, 09:55 PM   #48
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Only a few states allow that in residences.

"Air gaps under the sink have been around for decades. Its how they vent island sinks. So I think that is more a fear of the (commonly) unknown than actual history of issues.

Only a few states have allowed "wet vents" for several years. IN is one of them. That is what the term is for what you described. Wet vents are notorious for allowing sewage fumes into a structure, and that is well known. Same types of venting used on salad bars. BUT, they do not cause air locks. Retired mechanical engineer here; done a few plumbing systems.

Can he drop the trap off the bathroom lavatory, then snake it until it "bottoms out? How many openings does his gray tank have?

Also. a typical drain snake has the larger end. How about using an electrical fishtape? The end is much smaller and would make turns easier.
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Old 07-31-2018, 10:08 PM   #49
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The bathroom sink leads to the black tank.

There is nothing stuck in the lines or else the kitchen sink and the shower would always back up.


I think when the tank is draining it collapses under atmospheric pressure. The single inlet to the gray tank has the pipe to far in [as suggested by bc] effectively blocking the pipe as the bottom of the tank comes up to meet it. Sealing the vent

Until it sucks air back up the open drain valve balancing pressure , dropping the bottom of the tank and opening the vent again.
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Old 08-01-2018, 09:19 AM   #50
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Only a few states have allowed "wet vents" for several years. IN is one of them. That is what the term is for what you described. Wet vents are notorious for allowing sewage fumes into a structure, and that is well known. Same types of venting used on salad bars. BUT, they do not cause air locks. Retired mechanical engineer here; done a few plumbing systems.
I used to design commercial, modular buildings. I could use wet vents in all 50 states. The commercial plumbing code just accounted for them in sizing...as does the RV code. You have to size up one size of pipe in most cases. High rise buildings are pretty much all wet vents...otherwise you would end up with a million penetrations through the roof. Each fixtures gets a count (IE sinks 1, toilets 2). You total all of this up to determine the size of the pipe.
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Old 08-01-2018, 02:19 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by ataylo53 View Post
"Air gaps under the sink have been around for decades. Its how they vent island sinks. So I think that is more a fear of the (commonly) unknown than actual history of issues.

Only a few states have allowed "wet vents" for several years. IN is one of them. That is what the term is for what you described. Wet vents are notorious for allowing sewage fumes into a structure, and that is well known. Same types of venting used on salad bars. BUT, they do not cause air locks. Retired mechanical engineer here; done a few plumbing systems.

Can he drop the trap off the bathroom lavatory, then snake it until it "bottoms out? How many openings does his gray tank have?

Also. a typical drain snake has the larger end. How about using an electrical fishtape? The end is much smaller and would make turns easier.
Everything you wrote is wrong. Everything. You, obviously, are not a plumber. You have no business correcting anybody on the subject, whether they are wrong or not.

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