Isata 3 fw add water pump switch to bathroom

[yojohn]

Is it possible to add a water pump switch to the bathroom of a 2017 isata 3 fw have a switch in wet bay another at the entry If so some suggestions please

[bclemens]

Anything is possible....I guess I would ask why? its an on-demand pump. I always just leave it on at the campsite. If it is cycling without water demand then something else is going on. Most common thing is the Anderson valve has a leak in the O-ring and water is going back into the fresh tank, the pump cycles to build pressure, more water leaks into the fresh tank (rinse repeat)

[yojohn]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Anything is possible....I guess I would ask why? its an on-demand pump. I always just leave it on at the campsite. If it is cycling without water demand then something else is going on. Most common thing is the Anderson valve has a leak in the O-ring and water is going back into the fresh tank, the pump cycles to build pressure, more water leaks into the fresh tank (rinse repeat)

Dw wants one in the bathroom just for convenience
No leaks as it does not cycle
I am pretty handy so if she wants it I am going try thanks for any suggestions on how to go about getting it done

[FOURWHL]

"Honey can you turn the pump on???"

[yojohn]

Lol ��

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by yojohn

Dw wants one in the bathroom just for convenience
No leaks as it does not cycle.
I am pretty handy so if she wants it I am going try thanks for any suggestions on how to go about getting it done.

First of all, does DW know that it's okay to turn the pump on somewhere else and just leave it on all the time? You could explain that to her and save both of you some trouble.

Are you asking about what the circuit looks like, or how to run and fish the wires and mount the switch?

There are two ways to do the circuit:

1. Three single-pole, single-throw switches in parallel. Any one or more switches on runs the pump. All three switches off to stop it. To wire this, run two wires from the nearest switch to the new location and connect them to a new switch.
2. Three switches wired so that flipping any one changes the motor state. This is similar to the residential wiring scheme where you have switches at the top and bottom of the stairs that control the stairs lights. This requires two single-pole, double-throw switches and one double-pole, double-throw switch.

Do your present two switches behave like case 1 or case 2?

Larry

[yojohn]

(Case 2) I only have 2 switches currently they work like residential 3 way switch so I would like to know how to add the additional switch where to add wires current switch or at the water pump Thanks for your response

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by yojohn

(Case 2) I only have 2 switches currently they work like residential 3 way switch so I would like to know how to add the additional switch where to add wires current switch or at the water pump Thanks for your response

On paper it's very straightforward. In terms of the wiring, you will have to insert a third switch between the current two. Whether you can get at the wiring and add the needed wiring could be a problem.

Look at the images here for "Traveler Systems-2 locations" and "Traveler Systems-more than 2 locations.

Even though the example is for 120 VAC, it works exactly the same for 12 VDC. All the switching is done on the "hot" side. The neutral (return, ground) is unswitched.

Don't let the funny nomenclature throw you off. Here are the translations you need:

• The three terminal switch used in the 2-location scheme: Trades people call it a 3-way switch. Switch manufacturers call it a Single-Pole, Double-Throw (SPDT) switch.
• The four-terminal switch you have to add: Trades people call it a 4-way switch. Switch manufacturers call it a Double-Pole, Double-Throw (DPDT) switch.

A standard DPDT switch has six terminals, not four, arranged in two rows of three. You will will connect the diagonal corners;that is, top left to bottom right and top right to bottom left. Then the two wires from one of the other switches goes to the two center terminals and the two wires from the other switch goes to the two terminals at one end (either end).

There are many shapes and sizes and mountings for switches. Look for something rated at 12 volts and at least 5 amps. Don't get one with a "center off" position, also called "3 position". Don't get one that's "momentary."

This one would work fine for you if you can figure out a mounting. Maybe simply cut a 7/8" x 1-1/8" hole in the wall and snap it in.

Larry

[milkman55]

A cheaper option, carry a 1 gal jug of water in the bathroom for flushing while you travel. We never put any water in our fresh tank as we always have full hookups. The jug is super simple concept that requires no 3 way switches

[yojohn]

Larry,
Thanks for your response I will let you know how it all works out I plan on installing lighted switches so you know when the pump is activated

[Barch]

Originally Posted by yojohn

Dw wants one in the bathroom just for convenience
No leaks as it does not cycle
I am pretty handy so if she wants it I am going try thanks for any suggestions on how to go about getting it done

Sometimes what the DW wants is not what she needs (and sometimes what she needs is not what she wants)...

[D W]

Just for GP I ran this idea of a second water pump switch in the bathroom by the wife.

Her response was, "What's wrong with the switch we already have?"

That's why I married her!

[FFred]

99.9% of folks simply leave the pump power on .

If you want to leak check, use a LED tel-tale that only lights when the pump is actually running.

EZ hookup .