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Old 12-03-2019, 08:03 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Battchief View Post
included the addition of a small diode on the "IGN" lead. You will see this in the attached pics. The rationale for the diode is that the BIM 225 sends out small pulses on the IGN lead that can mess with the leveling system
What diode did you use and where was it sourced?

Thanks in advance. Planning on a Relion Lithium upgrade next week.

Batteries are in hand. BIM 225 is in hand. Victron is in hand.

Now I just need the RV so I can see if I need to upgrade the PD module!

PDI is tomorrow so hopefully things go well that.

Thanks for all of your detailed input on the upgrade.
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2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit
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Old 12-03-2019, 08:28 PM   #42
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Dorman 85193 via Amazon. Any diode suitable for trailer wiring will work. The amperage of the pulses from 225 are very low. I chose this one because it was easier to splice into IGN lead.


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Old 01-13-2020, 02:04 PM   #43
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Update : I just finished a 3800 mile trip from Texas to the Florida Keys and back. The lowest ambient temperatures encountered were 30F. The 712's for the chassis and house batteries never registered below 40F. The BIM 225 allowed both chassis battery and house batteries to charge from the alternator or the converter. There is one issue. The BIM 225 is designed for Lithium house batteries and an AGM or lead/acid chassis battery. There are a number of scenarios where the BIM pairs the batteries, for a brief period of time or continuously. Since I am using LIFEPO4 house and chassis batteries, this poses a challenge. When boon docking, the state of charge of the house batteries begins to diminish. Eventually the chassis battery has a higher state of charge than the house batteries. The BIM 225 apparently then pairs the house and chassis batteries, drawing power from the chassis battery. Fortunately I had set low SOC alarms on both 712's with the chassis battery set at 80% and the house batteries at 60%. Even at 60% the house batteries would still start the genset and even at 78% the chassis battery would start the MB diesel so there was no issue but I am searching for a simple way to force the BIM 225 to isolate the batteries when boon docking . Other than that, Lithium has worked perfectly.

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Old 01-13-2020, 03:40 PM   #44
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You guys per Magnum set the charge to "silent" correct? I'm guessing the Isata 3 and 5 have the Magnum controller ME-RC50. I'm having a little issue I think as I'm not getting a charge much over 13v. My Liths should have been fully charged after having shore power all night and driving a bit, but I got a lot battery and fault code once at my destination and moving the slide out... I haven't seen a charge over 13.6 yet.

I need to spend some more time with this one...
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Old 01-13-2020, 05:37 PM   #45
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Relion, told me it should be set to 'Silent'. I believe they said 'silent is fine' when I reviewed the options with their tech.
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Old 01-13-2020, 09:23 PM   #46
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Get a DC to DC converter and get rid of the BIM for charging the lithium house batteries. Add a manual mode switch to connect lithium to your engine battery for emergency charging

Also easier on your alternator when chassis batteries are low..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Battchief View Post
Update : I just finished a 3800 mile trip from Texas to the Florida Keys and back. The lowest ambient temperatures encountered were 30F. The 712's for the chassis and house batteries never registered below 40F. The BIM 225 allowed both chassis battery and house batteries to charge from the alternator or the converter. There is one issue. The BIM 225 is designed for Lithium house batteries and an AGM or lead/acid chassis battery. There are a number of scenarios where the BIM pairs the batteries, for a brief period of time or continuously. Since I am using LIFEPO4 house and chassis batteries, this poses a challenge. When boon docking, the state of charge of the house batteries begins to diminish. Eventually the chassis battery has a higher state of charge than the house batteries. The BIM 225 apparently then pairs the house and chassis batteries, drawing power from the chassis battery. Fortunately I had set low SOC alarms on both 712's with the chassis battery set at 80% and the house batteries at 60%. Even at 60% the house batteries would still start the genset and even at 78% the chassis battery would start the MB diesel so there was no issue but I am searching for a simple way to force the BIM 225 to isolate the batteries when boon docking . Other than that, Lithium has worked perfectly.


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Old 04-02-2020, 03:40 AM   #47
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Relion Battery update-I have 3 100w batts in my Isata 5 and I can't say I'm too impressed. I don't get more than a day of usage from them without a charge of some kind (solar or gen). Boondocking but I'm not using a lot of power either, No a/c, just fridge, a tv on occasion etc. I almost feel there's a problem with my batt setup in general or the batteries themselves. They just don't seem strong enough and hold enough charge. No sure how to address or test this....

I also can't get my AUTO GEN Start to work and not sure if it's a Lith battery situation. I posted more details about this on my 30FW mod thread.
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Old 04-02-2020, 03:42 AM   #48
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Get a DC to DC converter and get rid of the BIM for charging the lithium house batteries. Add a manual mode switch to connect lithium to your engine battery for emergency charging

Also easier on your alternator when chassis batteries are low..
I'm curious about this converter Babock? I did the 225 bim don't having some funky problems which could stem from this..
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Old 04-02-2020, 09:03 AM   #49
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I used the Renogy DCC dc-to-dc charger. Disabled the battery interconnect relay in the original BCC. The Renogy isolates the chassis from the house batteries, and only charges the house LiFeP batteries when it receives the “ignition on” signal. Limits the power drawn from the vehicle alternator.
My Li conversion (house batteries only) is here (post #171):

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ml#post2286869
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Old 04-02-2020, 10:45 AM   #50
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So you are right to question such meager performance. I am assuming that all 3 batteries are connected in parallel, that the charger module was upgraded to LiFePO4 capable(charging output in the 14.4 to 14.6 range, and that that BIM is working correctly. Did you install a Victon 712 or equivalent battery monitoring device that allows you to see battery state of charge. I am not familiar with Relion (I certainly have heard of them but not familiar with specifics. Most of these batteries have a built in BMS and contain a series of individual cells. I would fully charge, test battery voltage to make sure it is in 14.4 range, if not, isolate each battery and test to see if one is less than 14.4. Unless LiFePO4 batteries are charged to 14.4, the amount of usable power will be significantly less. I have 2 105ah Battleborns, upgraded charge module to LiFePO4, 2 100w GoPower flex panels and I can boondock for 2 days, even using gas furnace and 3 days without. Even at 50%, my house batteries will start gen.. BTW— my chassis battery(Eastup 105) is LiFePO4 as well. Some batteries , like my chassis battery, have an on off button to keep battery from being drawn down too low. It has to be turned on initially and reset. Which refrigerator do you have? The home type are mower hogs. I am interested in hearing more about your issue. Send pics if possible.

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Old 04-02-2020, 10:42 PM   #51
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I'm curious about this converter Babock? I did the 225 bim don't having some funky problems which could stem from this..
Renogy DC to DC convertor is one of them mentioned by JLeising.
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Old 04-02-2020, 11:46 PM   #52
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So you are right to question such meager performance. I am assuming that all 3 batteries are connected in parallel, that the charger module was upgraded to LiFePO4 capable(charging output in the 14.4 to 14.6 range, and that that BIM is working correctly. Did you install a Victon 712 or equivalent battery monitoring device that allows you to see battery state of charge. I am not familiar with Relion (I certainly have heard of them but not familiar with specifics. Most of these batteries have a built in BMS and contain a series of individual cells. I would fully charge, test battery voltage to make sure it is in 14.4 range, if not, isolate each battery and test to see if one is less than 14.4. Unless LiFePO4 batteries are charged to 14.4, the amount of usable power will be significantly less. I have 2 105ah Battleborns, upgraded charge module to LiFePO4, 2 100w GoPower flex panels and I can boondock for 2 days, even using gas furnace and 3 days without. Even at 50%, my house batteries will start gen.. BTW— my chassis battery(Eastup 105) is LiFePO4 as well. Some batteries , like my chassis battery, have an on off button to keep battery from being drawn down too low. It has to be turned on initially and reset. Which refrigerator do you have? The home type are mower hogs. I am interested in hearing more about your issue. Send pics if possible.

Battchief
Check out this thread of mine, lots of discussion around this and my whole setup.
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ml#post2299152

I have all the usual stuff I need for Lith's like most of us except this DC converter in lieu of the Lith BIN 225. Relion says to charge to about 14.2v then they will quickly stabilize at 13.2v or so which mine do. This happens within the first hr after a full charge. I have the new resi fridge, doesn't pull much power. The Relions do have an internal shut off although I can't remember at what voltage. I've tested that feature twice now.

Does your Auto Gen Start work with your Lith's??
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