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Old 08-11-2017, 12:12 PM   #1
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Isata 3 preferred winterization

What is the preferred winterization technique for the Isata 3 with the Anderson valve?

I was thinking that I could blow air through on the 'city' setting at a low psi. I don't think that would be a good idea with the pump.

I was thinking about pumping rv antifreeze into the FW tank and running the pump and pumping some into the black tank flush lines as well.

I've got some time, we have a Vermont trip this fall before she's completely put away for the winter.
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Old 08-11-2017, 01:53 PM   #2
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There is a "Winterize" setting that will let you hook up a cut-off of hose and put it into an antifreeze jug. That will let you bypass the tank. Just drain that.
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File Type: pdf Water Valve - Anderson Valve.pdf (485.5 KB, 55 views)
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Old 08-14-2017, 06:33 AM   #3
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When going back in service it is best to go to a campground that allows city water , and has a dump setup at your campsite.

The "pink goo" used to winterize will settle in some fittings and takes a bunch of flushing to finally depart.

Running the water every hour or so is a great help in dissolving the pink goo and having clear water again.
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Old 08-14-2017, 11:00 AM   #4
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this past winter was our first experience at winterizing our Isata 3. I have an oilless compressor, so I blew air through the lines. I used the pressure restricter that I use when using city water to insure that I did not damage any lines or fittings. I poured RV antifreeze in all the drains; probably had about a gallon in the black and grey tanks by the time I was done. No problems this spring when I ran water through the system.
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Old 08-14-2017, 12:36 PM   #5
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"I poured RV antifreeze in all the drains;"

Never a problem , the pink goo flush hassle comes when the FW pressure system is filled with pink goo.
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Old 10-27-2017, 10:37 PM   #6
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2016 Isata 3 with Anderson valve

I'm winterizing my Isata 3 which we just purchased - we live in Minnesota and it snowed today!
I read the posts on this thread and looked at the schematic for the Anderson valve - but it doesn't appear my version of that valve has a working water inlet. There's a black cap on the opening, and when I popped it off there was no plumbing behind it??
I drained the water tank, ran the pump and turned on all the faucets/toilet until no more water came out. I then used my air compressor to blow out the lines through the city water inlet, but I still hear water sounds when I run the water pump and the toilet still spits some water.
Do I need to put a couple of gallons of RV antifreeze in through the city water inlet and run the pump?? Thought by blowing out the lines I wouldn't have to.... Wish I had a good manual for this...

Pat Geraghty
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Old 10-27-2017, 11:51 PM   #7
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I used an air compressor last year to winterize and it worked. Since then, I replaced the water heater with a Truma. Truma warns against using compressed air, and there is conflicting information regarding the use of RV antifreeze with the Truma if you don't have a WH bypass. I did drain the Truma itself; what a quick and easy process. I set the compressor to about 40 psi , attached it to the city water connection, and crossed my fingers; I guess I will need to report back next spring regarding if I avoided damaging the plumbing. I did turn the water intake to the Truma off and blew out the cold lines, then opened it and blew out the hot water lines. I do plan on installing a WH bypass next year. Regarding the gurgling sound you hear: did you remove the cartridge from the filter under the bathroom sink, drain the filter housing and then replace it? And I also drained the little filter that is on the water pump; I did that several times. (it contained some small particles, so I rinsed it out before replacing it)
I am also in Mn. and it saddens me to see our Isata 3 in the driveway, covered with snow. I take it to the storage site next week. Already have three weeks reserved at state parks in northern MN next summer, including the newest state park near Lake Vermilion,
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Old 10-28-2017, 12:04 AM   #8
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Thanks for the reply RR - no I have not removed the water filter under the sink, will do that tomorrow morning (have the furnace running at 48 deg until I am comfortable with the winterizing). I also have the Truma hot water heater, turned the water inlet valve off and opened up the heater valves.
We were just up in Duluth last weekend - if you want to try something different - there is a marina just past the lift bridge - Lakehead Basin Marina - they have a big lot that they use to store boats in the winter - but it is an RV park in the summer. It's all asphalt, but it's right on the harbor and we love it. Also a great place to start / finish a bicycle ride - !
Wish I had a good, complete manual....
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Old 10-28-2017, 10:30 AM   #9
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Dymamax Step-by-step Winterization Guide?

Thanks guys, good comments.

We'll be picking up our 2018 Isata 3FW sometime around Thanksgiving in Columbus, OH. So winterization is something I'll be doing a couple of time this winter with a trip to Florida planned.

Did any of the paper work from Dynamax have a unit specific winterization guide? I didn't know about the water filter at the pump, don't think I ever had one there before - you saved me a spring water leak!

Thanks.


Dave
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Old 10-30-2017, 05:33 PM   #10
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FYI, if you have the anderson valve, but no place to hook up the hose, then it was moved to the sidewall. That way if there is a leak at the shoe, it does not leak into the motorhome.

On the 4, we put the whole thing in there, but we have a metal pan and a drain line.
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