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07-09-2018, 12:12 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Colville, WA
Posts: 345
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Every time I start the Mercedes, the voltage reading on the solar controller jumps up indicating charging is present. My coach was delivered with the fuses in the converter blown due to the polarity being reversed. Without the converter, the only way to charge the batteries was running the Mercedes so I charged the coach batteries by running the Mercedes periodically for 3 days before the dealer was able to fix the problem. I would run the Mercedes for 10-15 minutes, shut it off and then operate the slide.
It would seem that the best possible setup would be to require the parking brake to be engaged to operate either the levelers or the slide, but allow for the option of running the Mercedes engine if the coach batteries are not fully charged or not on shore power or in my case a non functioning charge converter.
__________________
2019 ISATA 3 FW
LiFePO4 Upgrade
2013 Honda CRV Toad
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07-09-2018, 04:14 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 850
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I have no clue to what comprises of the "BIRD" but I would venture to say that it contains a voltage sensitive relay. Typically, these devices are used to isolate battery banks. If the battery bank voltage is less than the charging voltage it connects the battery bank to charging system, in essence paralleling the chassis battery with the coach batteries when the engine is running.
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07-11-2018, 10:31 AM
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#23
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bristol, IN
Posts: 19,003
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OK, I had my EE take a look at this and it can be changed pretty easily.
Picture attached. It moves the wires from the left side fuse bank, that has ignition relays to the right side that is constant hot.
Proceed at your own risk.
There is not need to change anything. The keys just making sure the batteries are charged up. So shore power and gen work just fine for this. But if you feel the need to have the chassis engine running, I am told this will take care of it,
(This is in the BCC located in the step well if you did not know)
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07-11-2018, 04:15 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens
OK, I had my EE take a look at this and it can be changed pretty easily.
Picture attached. It moves the wires from the left side fuse bank, that has ignition relays to the right side that is constant hot.
Proceed at your own risk.
There is not need to change anything. The keys just making sure the batteries are charged up. So shore power and gen work just fine for this. But if you feel the need to have the chassis engine running, I am told this will take care of it,
(This is in the BCC located in the step well if you did not know)
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Thanks Brian, just did the "BC-1 Slide Mod" and everything seems to be working perfectly. The slide will move with the the engine running, slide will not move with the emergency brake off and works normally with the generator running and on ground power. Took less than 5 minutes and was very easy.
The advantage I see in this is closing up for an early morning start in a campground at 4AM with a slightly low battery and not having to start the generator during quiet hours. Thanks Again
__________________
2016 Dynamax Isata 3 24FW
2016 Jeep Willys JK
Yellow Lab Buddy Biscuit Eater
USN-RET/DOD-RET
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07-12-2018, 11:00 AM
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#25
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bristol, IN
Posts: 19,003
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My pleasure. Glad it worked out. As we are transitioning everything over to Multi-plex, we have set it up this way already. But instead of going back and changing things on a bunch of stuff, only to change it again, we are just letting multiplex conversion update everything. We have multiple design engineers, but only one electrical.
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07-12-2018, 01:11 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Colville, WA
Posts: 345
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Does this modification effect the operation of the levelers as well?
__________________
2019 ISATA 3 FW
LiFePO4 Upgrade
2013 Honda CRV Toad
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07-13-2018, 09:07 AM
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#27
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bristol, IN
Posts: 19,003
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Shouldn't as you are just moving the power for the slide out to the hot side.
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07-14-2018, 09:18 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens
My pleasure. Glad it worked out. As we are transitioning everything over to Multi-plex, we have set it up this way already. But instead of going back and changing things on a bunch of stuff, only to change it again, we are just letting multiplex conversion update everything. We have multiple design engineers, but only one electrical.
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This mod works as advertised. Thanks.
Let us know if your engineers develop a MB CANBUS interface to determine that the tranny is in park & output a contact closure to tie into this slide control. The e-brake works but if it is slightly engaged, not fully disengaged, and the driver does not notice the e-brake (park) light lit up on the dash, the slides could be operated while the vehicle is moving.
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07-14-2018, 11:01 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Colville, WA
Posts: 345
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Agree that PARK would be better as the Parking Brake in the MBS is a little sketchy to operate (engage/disengage) at times. What does "transitioning everything over to multiplex" mean? Thanks.
__________________
2019 ISATA 3 FW
LiFePO4 Upgrade
2013 Honda CRV Toad
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07-21-2018, 12:12 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Colville, WA
Posts: 345
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BC 1 - Slide Mod for ISATA 3
I am preparing to perform the BC-1 Slide – Mod as discussed here on my ISATA 3 FW. I removed the cover to the BCC and this is what I found. See pictures below:
First of all, it appears that my FW slide is presently operated by the Blue wire at position J2 which is labeled Rear Bedroom Slde-Out. As I understand it, all I need to do is move the Blue wire from the J2 position (bottom left) to either the J13 or J7 position on the upper right. Apparently the wires presently connected to these positions are not being utilized on my Coach and can be disconnected. I will also need to move the fuse as well. There is no need to move the Green wire. Correct?
I am also concerned about the fuse in position F10 (top left). Whoever installed it did a poor job and bent the fuse plug and it may be damaged. This position is labeled as providing power to the Awning. If I cannot straighten out the fuse plug and get a good connection, can I move this down to F6 or F4?
Thanks for your help.
__________________
2019 ISATA 3 FW
LiFePO4 Upgrade
2013 Honda CRV Toad
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