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Old 10-20-2018, 05:05 PM   #1
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Isata 3 Upper Cabinet Door Lift

This is for the horizontal cabinet door that is above the refrigerator. I know it's been covered here somewhere before, but just wanted to share what I came up with in case someone else can use the info. And it may me useful for other models with a similar hinged door. The gas lifts come in a package of 2, but you only need one.
https://www.amazon.com/Apexstone-Str...one+80N%2F18lb
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Old 10-20-2018, 06:03 PM   #2
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Thanks for that post. That door is a real pain without the strut. I just ordered mine.
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Old 10-21-2018, 08:22 AM   #3
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Great info! Thanks for sharing - ordering one now
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Old 10-21-2018, 11:12 AM   #4
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Three things to make note of for the install.
1. The mounting bracket on the door is 2 1/2 inches out from edge of door to the center of the 'ball' on the bracket. As you can see in the picture, I ran out of adjustment on the slots. 2 1/2" works, but I think 2 3/8 might work better. All that to say, center the screws in the bracket slots to mount at 2 1/2 inches so that you have some adjustment left.
2. Mount the lower bracket inside the cabinet as low as you can get it. If I was doing it again, I would file off a little of the bracket to get it just a little lower. It's not a big deal, but the length of the strut holds the door up tight against the ceiling.
3. The vertical piece of wood you have to add as a spacer for the lower mounting bracket gets screwed into the cabinet at the very top and bottom so that you screw into frame work behind the cabinet wall. Be careful where you put the lower screw so that it doesn't interfere with where the screws for the lower mounting bracket will go.
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Old 10-21-2018, 01:31 PM   #5
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Thanks for sharing, great idea. I just ordered them. Another good idea for that space is using xerox box lids to store stuff, 2 fit side by side perfectly and you can pull them out to get at stuff.
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Old 10-22-2018, 07:21 PM   #6
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Your right that cupboard door is a pain. I also ordered a set today. Thanks
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Old 10-22-2018, 08:10 PM   #7
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Can also buy another hinge for $3 and mount in the middle. Did this with two doors that would not stay up when open. Now they stay up.
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Old 10-23-2018, 07:17 AM   #8
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Better than using my head

Thanks for the post. Those upper storage doors are a real pain (on the top of my head). Mine are on order.
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Old 10-23-2018, 10:03 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whalenss View Post
Can also buy another hinge for $3 and mount in the middle. Did this with two doors that would not stay up when open. Now they stay up.
Do you have a part number for those that may want to go that route?
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Old 10-23-2018, 11:49 AM   #10
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Do you have a part number for those that may want to go that route?


Don’t have a part number. Just bought the hinges at the cabinet / hardware section at the hardware store ( Menards ).
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Old 10-23-2018, 12:48 PM   #11
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I think this is the hinge we are running now....soft close that hold open.

HINGE, SOFT CLOSE DUAL SPRING NICKEL 2952
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Old 10-23-2018, 12:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chroniekon View Post
Three things to make note of for the install.
1. The mounting bracket on the door is 2 1/2 inches out from edge of door to the center of the 'ball' on the bracket. As you can see in the picture, I ran out of adjustment on the slots. 2 1/2" works, but I think 2 3/8 might work better. All that to say, center the screws in the bracket slots to mount at 2 1/2 inches so that you have some adjustment left.
2. Mount the lower bracket inside the cabinet as low as you can get it. If I was doing it again, I would file off a little of the bracket to get it just a little lower. It's not a big deal, but the length of the strut holds the door up tight against the ceiling.
3. The vertical piece of wood you have to add as a spacer for the lower mounting bracket gets screwed into the cabinet at the very top and bottom so that you screw into frame work behind the cabinet wall. Be careful where you put the lower screw so that it doesn't interfere with where the screws for the lower mounting bracket will go.
Did you screw it from the outside or use long screws through the width of the spacer board. I plan on using wood glue on the spacer but trying to figure the best way to put the screws in.
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Old 10-23-2018, 01:52 PM   #13
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I counter suck the spacer then used long screws through the thickness of the spacer at the top and bottom.
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Old 10-23-2018, 02:12 PM   #14
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I counter suck the spacer then used long screws through the thickness of the spacer at the top and bottom.
I am not familiar with this technique.
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Old 10-23-2018, 02:15 PM   #15
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I am not familiar with this technique.
thank you. Looks very clean.
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Old 10-23-2018, 02:16 PM   #16
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I am not familiar with this technique.
He was helping me so I was nice, didn't touch that one Brian
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Old 10-23-2018, 02:17 PM   #17
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Yikes...that's supposed to be sunk. counter sunk
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Old 10-23-2018, 02:19 PM   #18
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Just looked it up. Supposed to be one word also. countersunk
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Old 10-23-2018, 02:22 PM   #19
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He was helping me so I was nice, didn't touch that one Brian
lol...i have no such restraint. I will however make that a New Years Resolution.

I would also have assumed two words, or at least a hyphenated word.
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Old 10-23-2018, 02:28 PM   #20
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It’s when you do it harder than the other guy
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