Isata 4 - Exposed Plywood?

[cbwood]

Was under my 2018 Isata 4 25FW, and saw what looks like raw plywood edges on the bottom of the front wall where the coach attaches to the cab. The photo is looking toward the front from under the coach step - the driver's side is similar. I am concerned that plywood would delaminate after exposure to road spray, etc. Is this really plywood?

Different subject: I just discovered is that the two dashboard "Power Points" (cigar lighter outlets) are only about 0.6V (always on). The Ford manual says these are 12V outlets, and I expected them to be switched on by the ignition key like most vehicles. It seems Dynamax must have rewired something - possibly to add a 0.5V USB outlet, although there is not one on the dash. Note that the outlet inside the glove box is 12V (always on). I'd like to have 12V switched on the dash, is there a simple fix?
The under dash fuse box is full now (Ford diagram shows unused positions). Can I get a drawing that shows what fuses were added by Dynamax?

[cavie]

Originally Posted by cbwood

Was under my 2018 Isata 4 25FW, and saw what looks like raw plywood edges on the bottom of the front wall where the coach attaches to the cab. The photo is looking toward the front from under the coach step - the driver's side is similar. I am concerned that plywood would delaminate after exposure to road spray, etc. Is this really plywood?

Different subject: I just discovered is that the two dashboard "Power Points" (cigar lighter outlets) are only about 0.6V (always on). The Ford manual says these are 12V outlets, and I expected them to be switched on by the ignition key like most vehicles. It seems Dynamax must have rewired something - possibly to add a 0.5V USB outlet, although there is not one on the dash. Note that the outlet inside the glove box is 12V (always on). I'd like to have 12V switched on the dash, is there a simple fix?
The under dash fuse box is full now (Ford diagram shows unused positions). Can I get a drawing that shows what fuses were added by Dynamax?

Yep, that's real plywood and needs to be sealed. Can't help with the plugs.

[steverkemp]

If memory serves me, the cig 12v outlets are not switched. This is a chassis thing from Ford, not changed by DYnamax. This is typical with this generation of vehicle. The e-series is largely unchanged for over 10 years.

The exposed plywood is not an issue in my experience based on the tolerance to water that this material has. I think you would see that same exposed plywood in any ford cutaways. That being said, it bothered me too so I painted it on mine several years ago.

[Riverbend]

I'd be sealing those raw edges with epoxy ASAP. The end grain layers of the ply in particular will absorb moisture like a sponge.

[bclemens]

Agree on all counts. Seal the plywood (or have it sealed), the plugs are a Ford thing, we don't add them or alter them.

[caseymyers]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Agree on all counts. Seal the plywood (or have it sealed), the plugs are a Ford thing, we don't add them or alter them.

Agree with BC on the outlets. Chrysler does that too. In my Jeep I have an outlet that is powered by the key but the one in the center console is always on. Ditto on most cars these days some are powered by the ignition key some are on all the time.

[cbwood]

I could live with the always on part for the outlet plugs. But it's the 0.6 volt thing that is my issue. That's kind of useless. I guess I thought that maybe Dynamax did something to the wiring when installing the dash radio. I initially thought the outlets weren't working at all when I tried to plug something in. A half volt (or 0.6V as I measured) is what you get for a USB outlet, so I thought along that line.
I may try to poke around and see if I can find where those plugs are fed from, but it's pretty tight under the dash, so I don't expect I'll find a solution.

[ktc]

Ummm... USB is 5 volts (5.0), not 0.5 v. I’d be willing to bet on a bad fuse, either blown or a bad connection. If you’re measuring this with a DVM it’s likely you’re reading a floating (“phantom”) voltage, DVMs don’t put enough load on the circuit to pull it down. You can verify that if you have a test light (like a pointy screwdriver with a light in the handle) - ground the clip lead and poke the test end into the center contact of the power outlet, then stick the meter lead in along side of it. (You do have three hands, right?) The light will load the circuit enough to draw off the floating voltage.

[cbwood]

Doh! 5V for USB, of course. Funny how you get something in your head and don't think whether it makes sense when you write it down. I think you may be right about the DVM - my old analog VM doesn't seem to register anything. I like your idea about the bad fuse - I was focused on low voltage, not no voltage. I'll have to research which fuse and check tomorrow when I have more time. Thanks for the tip.

[ktc]

If you’ve got an analog meter, you don’t need to check with the test light - the meter will load it enough to negate the floating voltage. I still keep an old Simpson 260 around just for things like this... I’ve even worked with other electricians who didn’t understand that just because a digital meter shows a voltage, it doesn’t mean there’s enough current available to actually DO anything.

[cbwood]

Thought it was 2 fuses in the box under the hood that looked bad. Unfortunately, replacing them did nothing. Kinda hard to tell if the 20A low profile FMX style fuses are really blown, but I pulled 2 that looked different from the others and replaced, no joy. Descriptions were "Power Point 2- instrument panel" and "Cigarette Lighter/Power Point" so I thought that matched up w/ the 2 plugs in the middle of the dash. As I mentioned, the outlet inside the glove box works fine. Must be something else.