I've got a disconnect problem

[FOURWHL]

I have finally gotten the best of the BIRD!

I know others have been frustrated that the battery disconnect didn't seem to actually disconnect the batteries, which I've seen explained by Brian as the BIRD keeping things coupled during charging for 15 min or something like that after shore is lost. I saw this same behavior and always noticed things did eventually turn off, however it always bugged me not having a truly reliable way to disconnect the batteries.

While I was monkeying around with my solar wiring I did some poking around and think I've found a reliable solution. The disconnect on the house batteries is infact reliable, it's a mechanical disconnect that comes in on the only positive cable going to the house batteries, so that disconnect is not to blame.

As I continued poking around I found 2 things:

1. A positive cable from the chassis batteries back to the solenoid in the inverter bay. Assume this is the cable that bridges the banks with the switch as well as what the bird uses to charge the chassis batteries.

2. Two other positive cables coming off a junction block going forward. I'm wondering if the disconnect in the cab only cuts one of those?

So what did I do?

1. Relocated the boost cable (positive from the solenoid) to the chassis positive junction block.

2. Installed another disconnect (yes I know I'm up to like 5 now on this rig, hence the thread title) on what is now the only positive cable going to the chassis batteries.

Tested and now when I flip both disconnects the coach is DEAD. Like dead dead. No steps no nothing. With just the house disconnect flipped, everything stays on so I'm assuming it's running off the chassis batteries for that short time period.

This should still preserve all the functionality of the BIRD and interaction between the two banks while giving me the power to disconnect everything without having to pull the positive cables.

Let me know what you think. Be interested to know if I missed anything here.

[FOURWHL]

Also interesting (odd) side note: the xantrex will keep the 110v passthrough and seems even 12v side alive on shore even with both banks disconnected, but will not activate them from dead if shore is added after everything is off.

Honestly can't say I understand that one but I'm guessing its because the way everything is tied together beyond the disconnects vs once the xantrex is off it doesn't even see the incoming voltage.

[sseaner]

I had the same issue today when I rearranged the LiPos. I turned off the switch but the inverter was happily still on. I let it sit for 10 minutes and the system was still powered. I then turned the battery disconnect on then back off and that did the trick.

[bclemens]

Just be careful....some of those items are required by code to be connected. IE...when you drive off and forget your step is out.

[FOURWHL]

I totally agree with the steps being on the chassis batteries for that exact reason. Can't think of a scenario where I can operate the vehicle with the steps out when everything is disconnected though.

This is really just to save me having to take the cables loose for longer term storage, or if I want to work on something and be sure its all powered down.

[Reverse_snowbird]

Originally Posted by FOURWHL

Can't think of a scenario where I can operate the vehicle with the steps out when everything is disconnected though.

On our rig, you can have the electric steps out and completely disconnect the coach battery and the steps will remain out.
But I agree, a battery disconnect switch on the batteries is good for storage.

[bclemens]

I trust you know what you're doing...just figured I would disclaim for those that wonder why the disconnect doesn't disconnect everything and then call me names.

Just protecting the shins of America.

You can disconnect the coach battery and the steps stay out...BUT, if you turn on the engine, the steps will come in because they are not really disconnected.

[FOURWHL]

Just to be clear here, the 2nd disconnect (or in my case 6th) I added here is on the CHASSIS batteries. Which is what kills the steps, but also what keeps the coach from moving with the steps out.

Having both the chassis and coach dead allows for a full cut of 12v power when needed, and prevents the BIRD from doing weird stuff.

Totally understand your disclaimer BC ... though implying I know what I'm doing may be a bit of a stretch...

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by FOURWHL

Totally understand your disclaimer BC ... though implying I know what I'm doing may be a bit of a stretch...

of course I was just being "PC"

[bubbles]

[QUOTE=FOURWHL;2097519]Just to be clear here, the 2nd disconnect (or in my case 6th) I added here is on the CHASSIS batteries./QUOTE]

I think you need to add another disconnect to disconnect the disconnects. Just in case.