Keyless Entry keypad Issue

[KRedburn]

Originally Posted by rskeans

Excellent analysis Ken. Could be a matter of time for all of us. Maybe just a weak comonent.

Thanks Bob however found out poplock uses reversing relays. That being the case, the relays could end up with dirty contacts or fried if there is "dirty power". The relays must be pretty small to fit in that case.

Another possibility is the solenoid that is used requires more current that the relay(s) can repeatedly handle.

One question for those with this current issue.

----- Did the lock quit working properly while you where on shore power?

Not saying this is the problem just another piece of the puzzle to find a fix.


My original keypad died while on the rally trip.
Replaced at factory
Second one went out on last trip working wheat harvest.
3 months old.

I do use a ems unit (Surge Guard) when I am hooked to shore power.

[Shawn M.]

Originally Posted by KRedburn

One question for those with this current issue.

----- Did the lock quit working properly while you where on shore power?
.

I was on generator power when mine malfunctioned.

[The Renegade]

Originally Posted by KRedburn

Just went out to shop to test the lock system. Door is not shut for these tests. Used a small 12V dc power supply and connected to the solenoid connector from the pop lock key pad. Solenoid works great in both directions. Reconnected the pop lock to the solenoid connector. Connected power supply to prongs on edge of door noting proper polarity from the door jamb dc source connections. Keypad lights up. 555 door locks.
enter unlock code default 13579 bell get green light but only a click on the solenoid.


Here is my opinion only since pop lock unit is sealed. And cannot be confirmed without disassembly.


IF poplock is using a mosfet H-bridge to control the solenoid which is a push pull unit. They may have blown catch diodes in the circuit or they do not have external catch diodes to protect the mosfet(s) depending on the mosfet internal intrinsic catch diode. Not a good deal if so. The spike from the solenoid collapsing magnetic field is probably "killing" one side of the h bridge circuit and needs to have external higher rated diodes externally to the mosfets.
Just an opinion from testing. I have not disassembled the keypad and cannot confirm my assumption.


I do however need a keypad to get this to work again but replacing the keypad with a third one in my case just band-aids this issue till it happens again.


The "ball" is in your court Mr. C

Exactly what I thought.

[rskeans]

Originally Posted by KRedburn

----- Did the lock quit working properly while you where on shore power?

Just for the record I was on shore power. I'm working now with the new replacement.

[bclemens]

The door mfg have escalated this with Pop-Locks. We'll see what they say.

While they have been great about getting replacements sent out to those that need them, my concern was the inconvenience and we keep replacing until the one year warranty is up and then what do we do about an issue we know will keep happening. I need a root cause.

I did talk to Challenger and they said the warranty on their door is 2 years and that the components they install are also part of that. While we have seen a couple here or there over the last few years, it seems to be rising. Our thoughts are that they have changed parts recently.

[KRedburn]

Brian,

I rigged up a current meter in the lock circuit.
When the solenoid actuates for
locking current exceeds 4 amps.
unlock current is .1 amp.

I would say that the relay is not capable of passing 4+ amps over time.

poplocks does not show the design specification for the relay locking/unlocking current flow rate.

Thought this might help.

[halla]

New keypad came, they sent the wrong door contact though.

I have no power to the contact and cannot find a blown fuse etc. any idea where the power for the door lock is?

[KRedburn]

Originally Posted by halla

New keypad came, they sent the wrong door contact though.

I have no power to the contact and cannot find a blown fuse etc. any idea where the power for the door lock is?

I believe the fuse is in the electric bay. Wire is in pin 14 of plug P2
it is a red wire in middle edge of plug, has a red black wire next to it on one side and a black on the other side

The fuse panel at the back of the electric bay is where the fuse is for the circuit. ----------- I think--------------

[rskeans]

Gee's Ken. You're like a troubleshooting manual. How do you keep it all straight?

[KRedburn]

Originally Posted by rskeans

Gee's Ken. You're like a troubleshooting manual. How do you keep it all straight?

I haven't walked through a doorway yet!

Ask the same question in a couple hours and I won't have any idea

[The Renegade]

Originally Posted by rskeans

Gee's Ken. You're like a troubleshooting manual. How do you keep it all straight?

No kidding. It should be against the law to know that much.

[halla]

Pulled and checked every fuse in rv, no power still. I must be missing something, maybe a bad relay?

[KRedburn]

Originally Posted by halla

Pulled and checked every fuse in rv, no power still. I must be missing something, maybe a bad relay?

OK -- found the fuse.

It is wire tied to the back of the powered step assembly. 15 amp

[halla]

Awesome, I will check that tomorrow. Thank you.

[halla]

All fixed. Thanks a lot kredburn. I would have never seen that fuse, mine was hidden really well. Wohoo, problem solved.

[rskeans]

WOW!!! KUDOS to Ken!!!!

[KRedburn]

Well, one "fixed". I am waiting to hear from Brian on the keypad findings from Challenger.


As I noted earlier, the current requirement for the solenoid is, I believe, higher than the relay(s) can repeatedly handle in the Pop-lock keypad.
Maybe a retrofit of 2 20 amp relays that the keypad initializes for lock or unlock. Much like an upgrade install of HID headlights into old style headlight units. The relay is connected direct to battery and deals with the high current demand vs the headlight switch.

[halla]

Also interested in permanent fix, hope this one lasts a while though

[The Renegade]

Good work both of you... Halla what all did you replace to get it working? What do you think the culprit was? I emailed my service rep from Dynamax ( Brian Meeks ) last week but still waiting to hear back from him. I was hoping since mine has not even left the driveway yet they would just send a new keypad.

[halla]

I replaced the keypad with the one I purchased. Adjusted the door contact. Adding dielectric grease to the contact. Had to replace the fuse as Ken noted, must have blown in when I was testing the contact the other day. It is hard to get the keypad in and out, but its done and I re caulked.