Max Amps for Kitchen Receptacle - Isata 3

[Jlole76]

It seems this thread has gotten off topic, I’m sure caswelld doesn’t need electrical theory, and is just looking for some input from anyone that owns an isata 3. Sorry caswelld I know how it goes when a thread goes off topic and you are looking for info, but I wanted you to know what my experience’s have been using the rv in the 25- 40 degree range.

[Jay2504]

I did what Bluepill does, except I put a pass through plug on the outside of the TT and ran a 12/2 with ground wire to a outlet in a box inside the camper. When needed I plug in a short extension cord to the 20 amp outlet at the pedestal and the other end into my new plug on the wall. Then I can run a 1500 watt heater without using any part of the 30amp service. Jay.

[xgarys]

Originally Posted by Jlole76

I’m guessing you don’t have an Isata 3, they did do a good job of distributing the circuits in these units. The circuit above the sink is not the same as the circuit by the bed or dinette so it won’t overload when I may have 2 heaters running at max, But thanks for your concern.

X2; We frequently operate one (1500W) heater connected to the outlet under the bed and another plugged in above the kitchen sink in our 2017 Isata 3 with no problem at all. We did the same in our previous two motorhomes as well, both with 30A service. 1990 Gulfstream Ultra and 1996 Rexhall Aerbus.

We just don't seem to have any problem remembering to disconnect one to brew another pot of coffee or run a hairdryer.

Also as mentioned previously, a heater may be physically small in dimentions but 1500 Watts is the largest there is without special accomodations not likely found in an rv.

[chroniekon]

Originally Posted by caswelld

I looked at the CB/Fuse box under the range top but couldn't determine the max amps for the kitchen receptacle. There are 8 listings on the guide, but only 7 switch breakers.

I want to plug in a small 1500 watt space heater at the kitchen receptacle for cool mornings.

Any ideas

Thanks & Happy New Year!

Dave

Here are the pictures of my Isata 3. There are 8 positions, position 1&2 are the 30 Amp Main. Position 3 through 8 are single breakers. The 15 Amp breaker in position 8 is for the Kitchen, Bath, Inverter, TV's, and Exterior Receptacle.
Yes, you can operate your 1500 watt space heater at the kitchen receptacle. Just be mindful of what you use at the other receptacles on that circuit.

[caswelld]

Thanks to everyone. I did a little math and determined that a 1500 watt heater should draw 12.5 A & should be okay at the kitchen receptacle. Went to Home Depot, bought a nice little heater that’s working great. It’s 34 degrees outside and it’s toasty inside, the furnace hasn’t run once

Dave

[bclemens]

if it gets really cold...just make sure you open base cabinets etc...anywhere that water lines are running.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by johnbryanpeters

Apologies up front, but all of those photographs are more likely associated with loose connections than with a couple of Amperes of overload.

Apologies not necessary; I was using them to indicate what can happen from low amperage overloads (whether from actual load or high resistance) over time.

[FFred]

The wires under screw heads look scary because they are,dangerous

The RVIA makes their own "standards" which are based on how fast the units can be assembled.

In Euroland a multi strand wire stuck under a screw head is not acceptable .

Either a crimped on terminal end is required or the wire end is dipped in solder to make the last 1/4 inch solid .

Even with crimped on terminal ends the best assembly will include a star washer to keep tension on the terminal end after multiple heating events.

In many cases this is an upgrade that can be owner done at low cost, just be sure to use a marine style crimping tool ($75 or so) that does not open to release till the pressure is correct.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by FFred

The RVIA makes their own "standards" which are based on how fast the units can be assembled.

This is false and unproductive hyperbole.

Originally Posted by FFred

In Euroland a multi strand wire stuck under a screw head is not acceptable

They do lots of things different than we do...like driving on the other side of the road. Doesn't make it right or wrong just different. Part of RVIA is that a stranded wire MUST have all strands in the terminal. RVIA codes are based on the unique scenarios faced by the RV industry. It is adjusted as needed (like residential codes) to make things safer. There are some plumbing code issues that are just plain silly to have in an RV...so its' own code was required.

No different than there is a commercial code for commercial applications due to those unique circumstances and it is more stringent than residential.

[johnbryanpeters]

@bclemens, are RVIA standards available to the public? I found The Recreation Vehicle Industry Association: RVIA Main Site Home, but if the standards are accessible, it was not evident to me.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by johnbryanpeters

@bclemens, are RVIA standards available to the public? I found The Recreation Vehicle Industry Association: RVIA Main Site Home, but if the standards are accessible, it was not evident to me.

Looks like you have to be a member to Log-In ?? from what I see.

[FFred]

"They do lots of things different than we do...like driving on the other side of the road. Doesn't make it right or wrong just different."

I may be wrong but I believe the RVIA is the only vehicle code in the world that allows stranded wire to be captured under a screw .

My background is both marine and aviation where a huge portion of RV wiring would be unacceptable.

No question the price points for the builds are very different.

[bclemens]

https://www.ul.com/wp-content/upload...NovDec2008.pdf

UL Listed receptacles are evaluated for use with solid and stranded conductors; however, they are not Listed for use with spade terminals.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by bclemens

https://www.ul.com/wp-content/upload...NovDec2008.pdf

UL Listed receptacles are evaluated for use with solid and stranded conductors; however, they are not Listed for use with spade terminals.

This code is referencing residential outlets. Our RV's are totally different. Standard receptacles can be used with stranded conductors but are a PITA and way above the paygrade of RV assemblers.

[bclemens]

Simply pointing out that UL listed receptacles are are evaluated for both solid and stranded conductors. Everything we install has to be UL or CSA listed. It's not like we're in the wild, wild west using privately labeled devices.

[FFred]

AC outlets come in many styles and grades .

The "contractor" grade is cheapest with just a screw head to hold the supply wire , great for a solid wire.Sold for the past 6-7 decades.

Looking at pricier units the input wire can be pushed into a slot where it is then compressed by a screw in a thin plate.

These are frequently $6.00 or $7.00 each instead of 75 cents.

I will pull one of the two in our Isata and see what style in installed .

[Beachsailor]

We use this nice little space heater. It has 3 heat settings. The 1125 watt setting has no problem keeping our unit warm(same size as the Isata 3). 1125 watts is well within the outlet ratings. There is a 1500 watt setting but we have not had to use it. But then if the temp goes into the 20s we head further south. The fan provides great heat distribution. The outer shell does not get hot and safety switch. Very quiet, one of the main reasons we use it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MB4BQ0G...a-274046744088

[cavie]

Originally Posted by FFred

AC outlets come in many styles and grades .

The "contractor" grade is cheapest with just a screw head to hold the supply wire , great for a solid wire.Sold for the past 6-7 decades.

Looking at pricier units the input wire can be pushed into a slot where it is then compressed by a screw in a thin plate.

These are frequently $6.00 or $7.00 each instead of 75 cents.

I will pull one of the two in our Isata and see what style in installed .

Most RV outlets are an animal of their own. They are NEVER installed in a residential or commercial setting. They are just not good quality. I would also NEVER plug a heater into one of them and go to sleep. If you must use a plugin heater, replace the outlet you are going to use with an electric box and a standard residential outlet. I cannot find a picture of one but they are a bayonet type. No screws involved. No electric box involved. The outlet just snaps together. You can train a monkey to install one.

[ben31]

Originally Posted by Bluepill

Assuming you have a 30 amp service into the RV, the traditional way to get more capacity is to run a dedicated 12 gauge extension cord directly from the 15 or 20 amp receptacle at the power pedestal and into the RV. I run the cord through a sliding window, then cover the remaining gap with painter's tape.

It's a nice way to increase your electrical service capacity by 50 or 66 percent without spending much money.

We always did this, back in our pop-up days. It helps a lot and you don't have to worry about the load on the rest of the RV.

[FFred]

Using a heater the easiest quick check is to pull the plug after an hour or so and see how hot the contacts are.

If you can hold them , no problem, if they are HOT , you might want to investigate .

A Lazer thermometer is your friend , as is a volt meter.