New Isata 3 Sofa Footrest Scraping

[caswelld]

During our PDI we had the dealer tighten down the screws on this table stanchion plate. 1200 miles later it is again scraping the bottom of the footrest.

1. What do these wood screws go into? It doesn’t hold.

2. How can this plate be secured so it doesn’t ruin the footrest fabric?

Thanks. Dave

[bclemens]

It's most likely just going into 1/2 or 5/8" plywood. Might be able to bolt through the whole floor.

[Magnatudes]

Not sure about the diameter of the post but there are rectangular post mounts that are more flush with the mounting surface that may provide more clearance. Some of them have built-in covers to close the hole when not in use. The floor plate used in your coach has a domed top which could be why it is catching the footrests.

Seems like there should be more meat for the mounting screws or these mounts should be nut & bolted in with fender washers underneath.

I wonder if each footrest could be cut down a couple inches to clear the post with the table in place.

[caswelld]

Originally Posted by bclemens

It's most likely just going into 1/2 or 5/8" plywood. Might be able to bolt through the whole floor.

Wonder why it wasn’t done at the factory?

[bclemens]

never had an issue before. If anyone is using the table to get up or down, that whole thing becomes a lever. I'll address this with my guys and see what backer is in there.

[bclemens]

PS. The footrest, is screwed onto the hardware. That can be moved I think.

[Magnatudes]

Originally Posted by bclemens

PS. The footrest, is screwed onto the hardware. That can be moved I think.

So can the each footrest be moved over to each side of the sofa to create a gap between footrests to clear the pedestal if the table is left in place?

Or can the footrest be removed, upholstery peeled back on one end, remove a piece about 1-1/2" along side edge, upholstery replaced, to make clearance for the post?

[Magnatudes]

I'm still looking for other square pedestal table bases. I remember back in the custom van days there were very flat low profile rectangular ones that distributed the weight across a larger area.

https://www.rvplus.com/cp-products-r...CABEgL_FfD_BwE
I can see older folks leaning on this table to get in and out without even thinking about the possible weakness of the mounting.

[caswelld]

Originally Posted by bclemens

never had an issue before. If anyone is using the table to get up or down, that whole thing becomes a lever. I'll address this with my guys and see what backer is in there.

The only time it has had a table in it was at the dealer. Never used the table.

As I said, it was exactly as you see it during my PDI.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by Magnatudes

So can the each footrest be moved over to each side of the sofa to create a gap between footrests to clear the pedestal if the table is left in place?

Or can the footrest be removed, upholstery peeled back on one end, remove a piece about 1-1/2" along side edge, upholstery replaced, to make clearance for the post?

Yes...we have actually asked the supplier to do that for 2019...but the center fixed piece is not wide enough to cover the gap. That has to be made bigger as well to cover the parts you are shortening up.

[Magnatudes]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Yes...we have actually asked the supplier to do that for 2019...but the center fixed piece is not wide enough to cover the gap. That has to be made bigger as well to cover the parts you are shortening up.

You are welcome to prototype this solution on my order.
Better yet, you are welcome to prototype a dual table solution using the Lagun articulating arms as I described in another thread as a substitute for the pedestal table & cocktail table & mounts.

[Magnatudes]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Yes...we have actually asked the supplier to do that for 2019...but the center fixed piece is not wide enough to cover the gap. That has to be made bigger as well to cover the parts you are shortening up.

Yes, I see the center support behind the footrests. For folks that already have this trifold, they would need to remove the upholstery on the this center support and add a piece of 2x2 or 2x4 to each side & reupholster or cover with other finishing material.

I still think that you should consider substituting this pedestal table with the Lagun articulating mounts on each side of the slideout with separate tabletops. Could end up being less effort for folding out the bed & would make for more tabletop to use for kitchen & driver seat when not in use for sofa. They are also removable.

https://www.rv-table-mount.com/shop?...iAAEgLp4vD_BwE

[Magnatudes]

Originally Posted by caswelld

During our PDI we had the dealer tighten down the screws on this table stanchion plate. 1200 miles later it is again scraping the bottom of the footrest.

1. What do these wood screws go into? It doesn’t hold.

2. How can this plate be secured so it doesn’t ruin the footrest fabric?

Thanks. DaveAttachment 159958Attachment 159959

Dave,

The base looks domed. This base may be the same hole pattern and it's for a 2-1/4 post but it has a thinner flat top. Not sure about it's overall diameter.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Russell-by-...FaFWBj&vxp=mtr

Here's what I would try:

Remove your base
With the thought of creating new locations for the base mounting screws,
see if you can fit additional material like a couple 1by2s or plywood thru the large center hole to create a beefier mounting surface & use wood screws & glue to attach them to the underneath of the slideout floor. Either use the old mounting holes or find new locations that will not interfere with the new base mounting locations. Just stay within the circular area that will be covered by the base so that these new screws won't be seen when you mount the base. Without knowing what it's like underneath I would also consider remounting the base placing the mounting holes in a new location. If you use to old locations, jam toothpicks or wood splinters/pegs into the old mounting holes so that you add meat for the screws to grab into.
Drill small pilot holes thru to prevent the wood from splitting when inserting screws.

Hope this helps.

[chroniekon]

Is it possible to put a spacer between the floor and sofa to raise it up a bit?

[caswelld]

Originally Posted by Magnatudes

Dave,

The base looks domed. This base may be the same hole pattern and it's for a 2-1/4 post but it has a thinner flat top. Not sure about it's overall diameter.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Russell-by-...FaFWBj&vxp=mtr

Here's what I would try:

Remove your base
With the thought of creating new locations for the base mounting screws,
see if you can fit additional material like a couple 1by2s or plywood thru the large center hole to create a beefier mounting surface & use wood screws & glue to attach them to the underneath of the slideout floor. Either use the old mounting holes or find new locations that will not interfere with the new base mounting locations. Just stay within the circular area that will be covered by the base so that these new screws won't be seen when you mount the base. Without knowing what it's like underneath I would also consider remounting the base placing the mounting holes in a new location. If you use to old locations, jam toothpicks or wood splinters/pegs into the old mounting holes so that you add meat for the screws to grab into.
Drill small pilot holes thru to prevent the wood from splitting when inserting screws.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Andy, that may be the easiest fix. This Russell Edelbrock looks thinner on the top side. A 3/16” less rise at the top of the base plate would do the trick.

2X on beefing up the mounting holes. One of the screw holes is stripped either during installation or the dealer fix.

[Magnatudes]

Originally Posted by caswelld

Thanks Andy, that may be the easiest fix. This Russell Edelbrock looks thinner on the top side. A 3/16” less rise at the top of the base plate would do the trick.

2X on beefing up the mounting holes. One of the screw holes is stripped either during installation or the dealer fix.

Dave,
Whenever I have a stripped hole in wood where a woodscrew goes into, I fix it by jamming toothpicks into the hole. Or use wood splinters to fill the holes up tight. This adds bulk so when you re-insert the screws they bite into this and expand/tighten up against the existing oversized hole.

I checked in my barn yesterday & I have a Russell base. It is very flat and without measuring it I would say it sits about 1/4" above the mounting surface. I'm not sure about it's overall diameter at the moment or if it is exactly the same hole pattern as the one you have.

[Magnatudes]

Originally Posted by chroniekon

Is it possible to put a spacer between the floor and sofa to raise it up a bit?

I think the problem Dave is having is that the existing post base sits too high and rubs against the bottom of the footrest when the footrest is opening up. What he needs is for the post base to be lower to clear the footrest.

[bclemens]

You could however shim up the sofa.

[Magnatudes]

Originally Posted by bclemens

You could however shim up the sofa.

Wouldn't this throw off the level of the bed too. You would need to shim up the foldout legs that rest on the floor of the coach. I think someone mentioned that the bed was at on time not level and the legs had to be modified/extended to compensate for the difference in the floor level of the slideout.

[bclemens]

Looks like it is only barely hitting...1/4" would be plenty to clear. That's not going to make much of a difference on the bed set up. But of course, the easy thing is to make sure the pedestal is tight to the floor. Or raise the foot rest portion 1/4"