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Old 10-09-2018, 03:27 PM   #1
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Oil Change Cummins ISL 8.9

I know there are alot of DIYers out there so don't shy away from an oil change. Found out when I changed the oil for the first time that there are two separate oil drain plugs. I had only purchased one Fumoto valve. So this time I was prepared and the oil drain process will go much easier next time. Hammered a phillips screw driver into the huge filter and and let it drain.

Found at least three zerk fittings on u joints and one other on the drive shaft.
Along with the usual zerk fittings in the front end. The biggest pain was installing the filter full of oil way up high, while on my back with the blood draining from my arm.

Took 6 gallons total on my engine. Next weekend I'm going to tackle the fuel filters.
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Old 10-09-2018, 03:44 PM   #2
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I don't trust Fumoto valve sticking below the pan. On the side, maybe.

I extract the oil from my inboard engines, lawn equipment, and road vehicles from the top thru the dipstick. I can reach the oil filter from the top or side on most. But it only holds 3.5 gallons of oil. They make a bigger one. Makes life very simple.

Mine:


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Old 10-09-2018, 07:35 PM   #3
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Not sure sucking the oil out gets the worst of the crap on the bottom.
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Old 10-09-2018, 10:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houstonstroker View Post
I know there are alot of DIYers out there so don't shy away from an oil change. Found out when I changed the oil for the first time that there are two separate oil drain plugs. I had only purchased one Fumoto valve. So this time I was prepared and the oil drain process will go much easier next time. Hammered a phillips screw driver into the huge filter and and let it drain.

Found at least three zerk fittings on u joints and one other on the drive shaft.
Along with the usual zerk fittings in the front end. The biggest pain was installing the filter full of oil way up high, while on my back with the blood draining from my arm.

Took 6 gallons total on my engine. Next weekend I'm going to tackle the fuel filters.
What weight oil do they recommend for the 8.9? Dino or synthetic?
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Old 10-10-2018, 07:26 AM   #5
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I run 15w-40 diesel rated shell Rotella.

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Old 10-10-2018, 08:19 AM   #6
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I run the same Rotella non synthetic.
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Old 10-10-2018, 08:24 AM   #7
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I’m not sure with the low mileage on an RV (for most people) that synthetic makes sense.
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Old 10-10-2018, 09:00 AM   #8
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I have Fumoto waiting for me to install soon. The pan is so high off of the ground with suspension components in front of it, Im not worried about it.
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Old 10-10-2018, 11:36 AM   #9
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I’m not sure with the low mileage on an RV (for most people) that synthetic makes sense.
I am of the opinion that there is more to synthetic oil that just the extended drain intervals. Things like FAR superior cold flow properties, superior flash point and much better protection for high heat/load exposure. I think it makes a TON of sense to run synthetic in an RV that, when it's running, it almost certainly going to see significant loads.

To put it in context, Rotella T5 15/40 (Dino) at Wal-Mart is currently showing as $15.97/gallon. Rotella T6 5/40 (synth) is currently showing as $19.97/gallon. The OP says that his ISL took 6 gallons of oil. With Dino oil that would amount to $95.82 and with synth that would amount to $119.82. That means that the total cash outlay to switch from dino to synth would amount to $24.00 per oil change. Don’t you think the extra protection at both cold and hot temps be worth $24? …..and if we really did some math and accounted for the extended drain interval, that $24 number would go down. If we switched to the ISB (6.7l) engine in the Isata5 which has a capacity of 3 gallons, that would (obviously) make the difference between dino and synth oil only $12.00. To me, it seems silly to consider anything less than Rotella T6 for a $12.00 difference.

I’m not saying that diesel rated dino oil is “bad” because I know it’s good oil, but I _am_ saying that I think synthetic motor oils (at least the diesel rated ones) offer additional protection that simply can’t be duplicated with a dino oil…..and I think that it makes the most sense in our coaches that are worked pretty hard virtually every time we twist the key. Simple version: it’s VERY cheap “insurance” in my book.
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Old 10-10-2018, 11:48 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Chuck_S View Post
I don't trust Fumoto valve sticking below the pan. On the side, maybe.
I feel the same way. I run Fumoto's on all my passenger vehicles, but the Cummins in our Isata5 is just like the OP's Force and points straight down at the ground. That seemed less than ideal to me for a Fumoto, but the Isata5 also doesn;t have the ground clearance that the Force/DX3 have, so that could make a big difference.

I bought this instead:

https://www.nospillsystems.com/




I have yet to do our first oil change, so it's not installed yet, but the reviews are VERY good. Lots of fleet companies run them in very abusive environments and have not reported any problems.
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Old 10-10-2018, 02:35 PM   #11
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Here is a shot from the front of my Force. The Fumoto is above and behind the huge sway bar. I ain't skeered that it will get hit.
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Old 10-10-2018, 03:26 PM   #12
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Except for a few "free" oil changes on my 2015 Corvette Z51 and 2017 JGC Summit, I too do my own routine maintenance. In my car garage. My DX3 sits in a covered storage lot where I can't do it. Was going to try and sneak in an oil change but got to looking at the undercarriage and realized I really didn't want to do it. Took to my local FL dealer and $265 later it was done; oil change 15W40 diesel (can't remember brand, but major), oil filter, 2 fuel filters, greased every fitting, checked fluid levels and a few other minor things and I didn't have to dispose of the used oil. For that price I'm not going to bother doing it myself.


On the syn vs dino oil issue, all my vehicles have had syn fluids (frt/rear diffs, chasiss grease, power steering, xmsn, engine). Started using syn while stationed in Fairbanks, AK in the late '70s. I believe the Cummins OM doesn't want you to switch till reaching first mileage listed for oil changes, 20K. I've got just over 10K. May or may not change to syn and although I agree with the benefits of syn fluids I can't see me putting more than 10K a year on it and keeping the coach more than another 5 - 6 years. If the FL dealer charged just a few bucks more I would do it, otherwise
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Old 10-10-2018, 04:48 PM   #13
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You should never prefill a filter. Oil or fuel. The oil and or fuel flows into the filters from the sides and up though the center. If you prefill, this is unfiltered and entering your engine. This could cause a fuel or oil system failure.
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Old 10-10-2018, 05:47 PM   #14
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I've been pre filling oil filters since shop class in the 70s. The theory was not to start an engine with a dry filter.

I just did both fuel filters and pre filled both. One of the filters required it. Now with the fuel filters you can pre fill with diesel in the outside holes. No unfiltered fuel should be poured into the center. One of the filters comes with a plug for pre filling.
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Old 10-10-2018, 05:58 PM   #15
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Dino oil vs synthetic. I run straight synthetic in my semi. I have 233,000 miles on this oil change. I change the spin on filters every 50,000 miles, along with the centrifuge cartridge that I installed as a bypass filter. I do an oil analysis every 50k miles to make sure it's still up to snuff. Saves me $2000/year in oil changes. And, synthetic is slicker than conventional, it doesn't break down. It only needs to be replaced when it gets contaminated.
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Old 10-10-2018, 07:19 PM   #16
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I must admit that I never heard of a Fumoto valve until now. However, I have had a pretty simple time using a socket wrench to remove the drain plug on my Isata 5. I am on the 5th oil change now. I do it every 5,000 miles with synthetic. Yes, I know it is overkill. But I don't care.

Now getting that oil filter up there... I don't enjoy that.
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Old 10-10-2018, 08:17 PM   #17
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<snip> I have 233,000 miles on this oil change.
Okay, so…..ahhhhh…..ummmmm……holy $h*t! That’s amazing!!! What synthetic do you run?
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Old 10-10-2018, 08:31 PM   #18
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Cummins RECOMMENDS using standard petroleum oil rather than synthetic oil.
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Old 10-10-2018, 10:21 PM   #19
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Cummins RECOMMENDS using standard petroleum oil rather than synthetic oil.
You are correct in that statement as this does exist in the owner's manual:

"Cummins Inc. recommends the use of high-quality SAE 15W-40 heavy-duty engine oil, such as Valvoline Premium
Blue"

However, this is a Direct quote from the Diesel Supplement 2018 Ram Owners Manual (Isata 5) :

"You may use synthetic engine oils if the recommended oil
quality requirements are met and the recommended maintenance
intervals for oil and filter changes are followed."

Direct quote from the Cummins ISL Owner's Manual (Force HD and DX3):

"Use of "synthetic engine oils" (those made with API group 3 or group 4 base stocks) is permitted, subject to the same
performance and viscosity limitations of petroleum (mineral) based engine oils. The same oil change intervals must be
applied to synthetic oils that are applied to petroleum (mineral) based engine oils."
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Old 10-11-2018, 06:39 PM   #20
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You should never prefill a filter. Oil or fuel. The oil and or fuel flows into the filters from the sides and up though the center. If you prefill, this is unfiltered and entering your engine. This could cause a fuel or oil system failure.


You have to prefill the fuel filters or the cummins will not run. It has to be full to keep the air out. Oil not so much.
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