Popping gfi at the house with my new XL hooked up

[bclemens]

This one it seems though is tripping instantly.

[Timecritic]

Originally Posted by cavie

no. plugging into a 15 or 20 amp with a working dogbone will make no difference what so ever. it will just limit you as to what you can run at the same time once you get plugged in.

I think it's time for you to have a one on one sit down with someone who owns a Motorhome.

I got the volt meter. So I’m thinking I test the transfer switch. I disconnect the power going to the transfer switch and it doesn’t pop. Then it’s either the transfer switch or wiring to the breaker correct correct?

[cavie]

Originally Posted by joeuncool

Did some quick Googling and found lots of people with this issue due to having too long of an extension cord back to the house. People may have 25-30 feet of RV cord plugged into a 100ft extension cord that is then plugged into the house. The cords over heat and trip their breakers. Even when only the fridge is running.

How long are the cords?

The issue is the wire size of the cord more than the distance. Typical 16 ga 100 foot extention cord used for weed eaters and Xmas lights ain't gonna work.

[hitchn2go]

You really, really should call an electrician or take RV back to the dealer. Electrical problems can be very dangerous and you should not be troubleshooting if you do not have the knowledge or experience working with electricity.

[CHICKDOE]

Kind of amazing! There have been several suggestions to use a tester or voltmeter and start at the house receptacle and verify that it is correct. Then work you way out testing every connection. This seems perfectly logical to me but I have yet to see any effort to do this. This is not a function of 15 amps, 20 amps, or 50 amps. It is simply verifying proper connections.

[Timecritic]

Ok this is what I have found. When the wires are disconnected at the transfer switch it doesn’t pop the breaker in my garage. Reel to switch is good. When I connect the red and white back up I have 120v and it doesn’t pop the breaker. However nothing seems to transfer through until the black wire is connected. After that’s connected back up to the transfer switch it pops the breaker.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by Timecritic

I will have to look again. This morning it looked like it went, shore-surge-breaker box. There must be a spot where it goes through the surge then meets at the generator?

Please stop using the term surge. It is a transfer switch made by a company call Surge Guard. Sore power in, Generator in, power out to breaker box. It is nothing more than a 3 way switch that picks generator or shore power. Nothing more.

It's either shore to breaker box or Generator to breaker box. that's it.

[joet19711]

your load is on the black your voltage from the cord you are using is on the black. Are you sure that you have checked the dog bone and extention cord for continuity? Somewhere the neutral and black could be swapped.

1. You said your XL worked fine at the dealer on 50A?
2. Have you ran your generator? did it work fine?

Just don't think your problem is at the XL

I sent you a PM

[cavie]

Originally Posted by CHICKDOE

Kind of amazing! There have been several suggestions to use a tester or voltmeter and start at the house receptacle and verify that it is correct. Then work you way out testing every connection. This seems perfectly logical to me but I have yet to see any effort to do this. This is not a function of 15 amps, 20 amps, or 50 amps. It is simply verifying proper connections.

THANK YOU!!!!!

[cavie]

Originally Posted by Timecritic

Ok this is what I have found. When the wires are disconnected at the transfer switch it doesn’t pop the breaker in my garage. Reel to switch is good. When I connect the red and white back up I have 120v and it doesn’t pop the breaker. However nothing seems to transfer through until the black wire is connected. After that’s connected back up to the transfer switch it pops the breaker.

Now we are getting some place. Note your picture is upside down. You have two contactors there. One for the gen and one for the shore power. The two bottom sets of wires are the shore input and the GEN input correct? Now the other side we cannot see, the two sets of wires must be connected together and going to the breaker box right? Answer these questions then we will move on.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by joet19711

your load is on the black your voltage from the cord you are using is on the black. Are you sure that you have checked the dog bone and extention cord for continuity? Somewhere the neutral and black could be swapped.

1. You said your XL worked fine at the dealer on 50A?
2. Have you ran your generator? did it work fine?

Just don't think your problem is at the XL

I sent you a PM

Yes....everything being done still doesn't confirm that the cords/adaptors are correct. Not saying it is the same case, but it feels VERY familiar to the last time we did this and it took pages and pages of troubleshooting and changes and in the end I think he took apart the dog bone and found out it was wired wrong. I suppose the biggest thing we can do here is verify that the transfer switch is wired right.

[Timecritic]

Wiring for the house 120v when testing white and black. 120v when testing black and green 120v. Moving on the the adapter next

[Timecritic]

Here is the adapter. It passed a continuity test. Also plugged it in. I get 120v connecting black with white and black with green.
When plugging in the adapter to the extension cord white matches with the w on the adapter as well as g and green

[clr]

Plugging into a GFI outlet in the house to trouble shoot AC problems is not a great idea. I will try and keep this simple, but a RV has a floating ground and your home has an earth ground system. GFI's measure the current flowing on the power lead and look for the same power returning on the power return lead. Even small current differences will trip the GFI. There are several loads in the RV that can cause the GFI to trip with no problems in the RV. The number one is the RF filters that are installed in the switching power supplies, almost all converters and inverters are switching type power supplies. That long and short of this is that a totally fine RV can still pop a GFI outlet. Do not want you chasing your tail here, good luck.

[joet19711]

Originally Posted by clr

Plugging into a GFI outlet in the house to trouble shoot AC problems is not a great idea. I will try and keep this simple, but a RV has a floating ground and your home has an earth ground system. GFI's measure the current flowing on the power lead and look for the same power returning on the power return lead. Even small current differences will trip the GFI. There are several loads in the RV that can cause the GFI to trip with no problems in the RV. The number one is the RF filters that are installed in the switching power supplies, almost all converters and inverters are switching type power supplies. That long and short of this is that a totally fine RV can still pop a GFI outlet. Do not want you chasing your tail here, good luck.

valid point.
Question have you tried plugging your cord into a non GFI circuit?
Question is your inverter/charger disabled in your panel?

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Timecritic

I have turned off the 50amp breaker in the coach(this will shut off any gfi outlet in the coach). Shut off the master switch for the coach batteries. It will pop any breaker, GFI or not, in the house. Doesn't make sense. If I turn off the coach battery power, and plug it into the house. It shouldn't do anything till I allow power to go through it. Also it makes a loud pop in the coach every time the breaker blows in the house.

Originally Posted by joet19711

valid point.
Question have you tried plugging your cord into a non GFI circuit?
Question is your inverter/charger disabled in your panel?

The OP has stated it will pop the house circuit breaker, whether or not it's a circuit the gfci outlet is on.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by Timecritic

Here is the adapter. It passed a continuity test. Also plugged it in. I get 120v connecting black with white and black with green.
When plugging in the adapter to the extension cord white matches with the w on the adapter as well as g and green

Ok we have verified that your dog bone adpt is good. Plug it into shore power. Plug in your RV cord. detach it from your RV and measure the voltage at the end of the shore power just like you did with your dog bone. Electric trouble shooting 101. Start at the beginning and work your way back to the problem one step at a time. Baby steps.

I am confused about your statement of unplugging the power cord from the RV if you have a cord real.

[Timecritic]

Correct it will pop the breaker on a non gfi outlet as well. This is where I’m at now. Disconnect the power going to the coach breaker and it doesn’t pop my gfi in the garage. I don’t know all the terminology everyone uses for motor homes. So I call the rv coach and my home that you can’t drive away in “house”

[Timecritic]

If I leave the red and black wire hooked up and remove the neutral from the transfer switch it doesn’t pop my gfi in the garage. Don’t know if this is normal but right now white wire going to the coach(neutral) has continuity with ground.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by Timecritic

Correct it will pop the breaker on a non gfi outlet as well. This is where I’m at now. Disconnect the power going to the coach breaker and it doesn’t pop my gfi in the garage. I don’t know all the terminology everyone uses for motor homes. So I call the rv coach and my home that you can’t drive away in “house”

Timecritic, we are trying to help you but you are making it difficult. Please use the quote button when answering somebody. As you can see from your quote above we have no idea who you are talking too.

Please verify for me what cord the black wire you disconnected is in. Is it from the gen or is it from the shore power? We will take this one question at a time. We are getting closer to the answer.