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Old 04-27-2018, 09:22 AM   #41
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Cable slide adjustment
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Old 04-27-2018, 09:46 AM   #42
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I just talked to my service tech. He suggests that you don't need to pull the seals or the slide room. We do use a mechanical fastener into the face of the slide seal. It is a "U" shaped plastic piece that goes over the end of that wall and has the rubber bulb attached to it. We only have 5 series in that stage right now so I can't get good pictures.

So, his suggestion is that water is getting in behind the top slide seal under the slide topper. So he said to peel back the slide topper (put a cotter pin in it) so it does not retract. Once you have "FIXED" the slide topper so it won't force back in, detach it from the slide room and set up up on the roof. (like you're peeling back a can lid?) leaving the fabric attached in the awning rail. Once you do that, you have all the room in the world to work. He thinks water is getting to that top seal and sitting in the bottom of the U-section of the seal and wicking up into the wood. Tear out the wood inside of course (to do that all the fascia and everything likely needs to come off).

If you're heading by the plant, I'd happily give you some paneling. Panels have to be crated and freighted due to size...its like spending $800 to ship a $25 part.
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Old 04-27-2018, 09:59 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by bclemens View Post
I just talked to my service tech. He suggests that you don't need to pull the seals or the slide room. We do use a mechanical fastener into the face of the slide seal. It is a "U" shaped plastic piece that goes over the end of that wall and has the rubber bulb attached to it. We only have 5 series in that stage right now so I can't get good pictures.

So, his suggestion is that water is getting in behind the top slide seal under the slide topper. So he said to peel back the slide topper (put a cotter pin in it) so it does not retract. Once you have "FIXED" the slide topper so it won't force back in, detach it from the slide room and set up up on the roof. (like you're peeling back a can lid?) leaving the fabric attached in the awning rail. Once you do that, you have all the room in the world to work. He thinks water is getting to that top seal and sitting in the bottom of the U-section of the seal and wicking up into the wood. Tear out the wood inside of course (to do that all the fascia and everything likely needs to come off).

If you're heading by the plant, I'd happily give you some paneling. Panels have to be crated and freighted due to size...its like spending $800 to ship a $25 part.
I know we have banged heads a little but helping this guy out with his problem like this and his coach is out of warranty... Now I'm impressed
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Old 04-27-2018, 10:00 AM   #44
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I know we have banged heads a little but helping this guy out with his problem like this and his coach is out of warranty... Now I'm impressed
Please share pictures of process.. much appreciated..
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Old 04-27-2018, 12:42 PM   #45
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we'll see what tomorrow brings.
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Old 04-27-2018, 03:21 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by bclemens View Post
I just talked to my service tech. He suggests that you don't need to pull the seals or the slide room. We do use a mechanical fastener into the face of the slide seal. It is a "U" shaped plastic piece that goes over the end of that wall and has the rubber bulb attached to it. We only have 5 series in that stage right now so I can't get good pictures.

So, his suggestion is that water is getting in behind the top slide seal under the slide topper. So he said to peel back the slide topper (put a cotter pin in it) so it does not retract. Once you have "FIXED" the slide topper so it won't force back in, detach it from the slide room and set up up on the roof. (like you're peeling back a can lid?) leaving the fabric attached in the awning rail. Once you do that, you have all the room in the world to work. He thinks water is getting to that top seal and sitting in the bottom of the U-section of the seal and wicking up into the wood. Tear out the wood inside of course (to do that all the fascia and everything likely needs to come off).

If you're heading by the plant, I'd happily give you some paneling. Panels have to be crated and freighted due to size...its like spending $800 to ship a $25 part.
Are you talking about just the paneling as in 1/4" luann? or a full panel that covers the entire opening? If it is just Luann, I could really use some matching wallpaper one the wood has been replaced.

I am going to go ahead and remove the actual slide topper all together to clean and treat it with some 303. There is a really good video at this link that shows how to. I have no relationship with these guys. They have posted a lot of good RV how to videos. This one is specific to the topper I have.

The Topper company even offers a discount if you buy there replacement toppers.
It's Easy to Replace Your Own Slide Topper Awning Fabric
Discount code: RVGEEKSROCK

As far as the facia, are you talking about the one on the inside? This one? If so, There is just enough room with the slide partially in about a foot to get my arm and some hand tools in there in order to remove and reapply the 6" tall wall board. I think the tight working space is just enough to justify not removing the facia wood and the slide metal facia base.


The water making it past that top D-cell seal were my original suspicions. On the top wall frame seal that the double sweeps are moulded to, is a top or outer D-cell that gets compressed when the slide is in. The slide does not leak when the slide is in and pressing against this D cell seal that is a part of the main seal. On the side double sweep seal the D-Cell can be popped off but the top horizontal seal is a part of the whole c-channel seal. From initial inspection, I don't see any mechanical 3M style tape holding this to the outer gel-coat wall. This is also in my opinion where the water is getting in and sitting on top of that inner C channel and wicking up from my initial posts. Do you recommend a 3M VHB tape securing it to the gel coat or some specific type of sealing sauce such as Proflex, or Sikaflex?


This slide cable gasket just does not want to adhere to the outer sweep. What do you recommend the best solution to be?


This top sweep that overlaps the side sweep has been chemically bonded together. What did you use to perform this sorcery, as I would like to do the same to the 4 slide cable gaskets that won't stick to the outer sweeps.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...1&d=1524855643

Lastly, like all of my posts there will be a comprehensive set of photos as well as a writeup for other members. I am also just finishing up my writeup on the repair and replacement of my MACH-8 AC units where the 3 blade fan went splody like a grenade.
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Old 04-27-2018, 03:35 PM   #47
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When I say "paneling"...we buy all of our stuff with the vinyl wall covering laminated to the lauan. Having said that, if you just buy the lauan locally, I'm sure I have some 6" or 12" overlay material. This is the same vinyl material, but instead of laminated to lauan, we have it laminated to an adhesive back. We won't really do wall paper per se (in the traditional sense).

I was just out there and we had several rolls of the self adhesive stuff..if you shoot me close up of the wall board I'm sure I can match it.

As for the sorcery...the first response was "super glue". I guess the plant manager stashes it and the slide guys get it from him when they need more. I can see if I can get a picture of the bottle on Monday to be sure, but the guy I asked was 99% sure it was just super glue.
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Old 04-27-2018, 03:53 PM   #48
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Good deal. I will post the photo of the laminate here. Also, the Superglue makes sense. I will try that on the cable gaskets as rubber cement with the proper prep and primer as well as silicone has no effect. Did you get an answer on what they use to adhere the "C Channel" double swipe seal behind the D-Cell at the top to the outer Gel Coat wall?



Also, what is the bonding material sealing the screw holes and the awning rail that is screwed to the roof above the transition piece? Mine is looking pretty abused.

Thanks
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Old 04-27-2018, 04:04 PM   #49
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Check that...they clean the slides with alcohol, 802 Adhesion Promoter and then glue it with Cyberbond 2028. Which I think is still just superglue. (cyanoacrylate). They say it looks, smells and tastes just like normal super glue
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Old 04-27-2018, 06:46 PM   #50
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Cable slide adjustment


Is this slide adjustment manual applicable to the 2014 DX3 as well? Iím also having problems.
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