Slide Out Fault Code Flashing

JGB · 02-02-2019, 02:41 PM

Checking on my 2018 Isata 36DS while in storage, I decided to check some of systems, particularly the furnace since we had never used it. Everything check out OK until I decided to check the slide outs, the coach was level and the generator operating but when I attempt to extend either slide out the Red Fault Code Consult The Manual If Flashing light came on and the slides would not extend. I checked the manual, both hard copy and online, and cannot find anything referencing a slide out Fault Code. Has anyone experienced this condition or has any idea what this code is about and how to correct it?

FOURWHL · 02-02-2019, 03:00 PM

Assuming you have the LCI slide control (not sure) this should be what you're looking for

**bclemens** · 02-02-2019, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JGB

Checking on my 2018 Isata 36DS while in storage, I decided to check some of systems, particularly the furnace since we had never used it. Everything check out OK until I decided to check the slide outs, the coach was level and the generator operating but when I attempt to extend either slide out the Red Fault Code Consult The Manual If Flashing light came on and the slides would not extend. I checked the manual, both hard copy and online, and cannot find anything referencing a slide out Fault Code. Has anyone experienced this condition or has any idea what this code is about and how to correct it?

Also, if it has been sitting for a while, you need to give the batteries time to charge up.

JGB · 02-02-2019, 08:58 PM

The batteries have been charged with shore power, I also had the generator running for nearly an hour before I gave up.

**bclemens** · 02-02-2019, 09:28 PM

1. What fault code did it flash?
2. Did you read the “slide issues, slide not working” post? It’s at the top of the Dynamax forum

JGB · 02-02-2019, 09:36 PM

I did not note a particular sequence of the flash, nor did I see the forum thread that I will check. I will check it again next weekend.

JGB · 02-02-2019, 09:49 PM

I did see the thread on the slide out issue but for some reason it did not register as being related. The coach was cold 40-50 degrees, but I did have shore power, generator and engine running. Possibly tried to slide it out too soon and caused the fault to occur. I will try to remove the plate and clear the fault and see if that takes care of the problem. Thank you for the follow up. Unfortunately, I still did not see this outlined in the manual but I do recall seeing on the forum. Thanks again.

debit · 02-02-2019, 10:26 PM

You might find that adding a voltage meter will greatly help you to determine the voltage level in your batteries.
.................
Ram 2500 / FR251rks

JGB · 02-03-2019, 07:13 AM

Thanks, the unit has a voltage for both the coach and chassis and they show full charged. I am thinking the slide motors were cold and sensed something that triggered the fault. I was directed to a thread that shows how to clear the fault and will try next weekend. Too much going on during Super Bowl Sunday...

catchipp · 05-05-2019, 04:41 PM

We are getting one red flash, which I believe is set stop location. What does that mean? Can we fix that ourselves?

Our slide out is not working and we've checked batteries as well.
Cathy
Georgetown Series 3 2017

bratbros · 05-05-2019, 06:14 PM

I don't know what brand or model of slide out a Georgetown has but here is the link to the main slideout troubleshooting post in the Dynamax forum for the LCI Slim Rack System.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ax-177485.html

mistysky · 08-18-2019, 03:16 PM

We have a 2017 Dynamax Isata 3 and although we haven’t use it to much, have loved it up until now. Recently we’ve had trouble with the low voltage red light flashing while trying to retract the slide on shore power, with the chassis and house batteries fully charged. Does the slide run off the house batteries or the chassis battery? Should we be running the engine every time we retract the slide? Also has anyone else had trouble with their microwave (dropping)tilting back on the top and becoming unlevel with the cabinetry, like it wasn’t supported in the rear when installed at the factory?

bratbros · 08-18-2019, 09:28 PM

I have an Isata 5 so I'm not exactly sure what you have been experiencing, but I always 100% of the time make sure the engine is running when I operate the slide. If I see a low voltage flash I stop and wait until the batteries have built up more charge, but when I'm running the engine I never see a low voltage warning. I never move the slide until the Solar Controller is indicating 13.5 volts or more. 14 is better and the slide motors sound better at 14.

I had multiple problems with my slide the first year, but once I got the bugs worked out and used the above procedure I have not had an issue.

mistysky · 08-19-2019, 07:21 AM

Thank you Bratbros. Just don’t understand the necessity of starting chassis engine while on shore power and house battery fully charged. Don’t seem to have a trouble with the slide going out, just coming back in. Low voltage light flashes red. Maybe we just need to take the control panel off and push the reset button for one second. Thanks again!

**bclemens** · 08-19-2019, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mistysky

Thank you Bratbros. Just don’t understand the necessity of starting chassis engine while on shore power and house battery fully charged. Don’t seem to have a trouble with the slide going out, just coming back in. Low voltage light flashes red. Maybe we just need to take the control panel off and push the reset button for one second. Thanks again!

^^What Bratbros said^^

We TOO, don't understand the necessity of starting the chassis engine. BUT, we have confirmed that it seems to make a difference.

Bratbros has stumbled (or troubleshot his way) onto something we are looking into. With the chassis engine running, it seems to deliver more power than with the shore or gen running. I am having our EE run some tests and see if we can re-create.

the charge line from the converter, I think is a 50 or 60 amp charger. Most alternator's are MORE than that, but they also have to provide power to the chassis and normally are not at peak power at idle speed. However, I wonder if it has something to do with which terminals it is all connected to in the battery control center.

Anyway....regardless of the "WHY", we feel that when in doubt, start the chassis engine for optimal slide operation.

I don't think resetting it is the issue...and coming in always seems to be harder than pushing out.

**bclemens** · 08-19-2019, 09:23 AM

And just like that (they are pretty quick). From engineering....

"The slide-outs are connected to the house batteries.

Recorded the following voltage readings on an Isata 3 and Isata 4 with slide room at rest:

Isata 3
No engine or shore power 12.60v
Shore power 13.58v
Engine running no shore 14.18v

Isata 4
No engine or shore power 12.47v
Shore power 13.27v
Engine running no shore 14.20v

The motors are permanent magnet dc motors and voltage will affect speed and torque."

So...for BEST results, I will say, have the chassis engine running for slide operation.

It very well could be, that at Idle, the alternator doesn't have to feed anything else.
However, the shore power hookup does. remember, the converter is converting to 12V power for all of the 12V appliances AND it has a charge line that goes to the batteries.

While we could possibly increase the charge amps...that might also require 50 amp service that we DO NOT have on the 3 or 4 series.

While the 5 Series has a more robust invert/charger, I am guessing we would also see higher voltages with the beastly dual alternators on from the RAM. Without testing I can tell you, the slide flies out with the engine running.

**bclemens** · 08-19-2019, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bratbros

I have an Isata 5 so I'm not exactly sure what you have been experiencing, but I always 100% of the time make sure the engine is running when I operate the slide. If I see a low voltage flash I stop and wait until the batteries have built up more charge, but when I'm running the engine I never see a low voltage warning. I never move the slide until the Solar Controller is indicating 13.5 volts or more. 14 is better and the slide motors sound better at 14.

I had multiple problems with my slide the first year, but once I got the bugs worked out and used the above procedure I have not had an issue.

FYI, in both cases of testing, the chassis' were pushing 14v and goes hand in hand with your observation that they "sounded better" and worked better at 14 (over 13.5)

bratbros · 08-19-2019, 09:46 AM

Just another note: It takes some time for the BIRD to switch over even with the engine running. Most of the time I will start the engine and then go about other things until the Solar Controller reads 14v. I do not just start the engine and push the slide control button. Often times the voltage will only be 12.5 or so even with the engine running. It can take up to 5 minutes or so sometimes. At least it seems like that long.

mistysky · 08-19-2019, 10:39 AM

Brian,

Thank you so much for replying to the low voltage red light flashing problem with the slide operation on the Isata 3. Will try running the engine everytime we operate the slide. In addition, did you see my concern on my last post, the top of the microwave on our 2017 Isata 3 has tipped back in the cabinet, throwing the microwave out of level. Seems like maybe there is no support in the cabinet for it. Hard to explain! Have you had any trouble with this on the 2017's?

mistysky · 08-19-2019, 11:02 AM

Update:.

Brian,

Just tried to operate the slide with chassis engine running, emergency bake on, and shore power connected. Our Isata 3 slide WILL NOT operate at all with the engine running, nothing works and the panel doesn't light at all. Shut the engine off and the slide would start to operate, but the low voltage red light flashes. Help!

You may also like: