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03-29-2017, 08:59 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 8
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Some questions regarding our new Isata 3 24FW
Greetings: My wife and I received our Isata 3 in February having purchased it at the Nov. show in Portland, Or. It's currently at B Young having some problems repaired. Leaks, cracked windshield, rear window blew a few blocks from the repair shop etc.. We have yet to take it anywhere other than the dealer so I'm hoping that they will find everything.
So far we have been very pleased with the service, but I have a couple of questions that haven't been answered to my satisfaction by the dealer.
First: I left the Isata parked in the sun (we actually had a full day with sun), with the inverter on to power an outlet into which I plugged a 9v DC power adapter for a small Gurin Thermo-Electric Dehumidifier rated for 1100cubic Ft.
Starting the day with a full charge on the batteries, six hours later the batteries were below 12v. I had made sure that both TV's were off.
The dealer tells me that they are just to trickle charge the batteries. I feel that something is wrong, as I have both electric fence chargers, and a gate that draw more power and are charged with much less than 200 watts solar.
Can anyone help with this?
Second: With the furnace on (no shore power) , the fan only works at one high speed and the thermostat fan control on the wall won't change this. The dealer says the speed can only be changed when on shore power. If so, then why?
Third & finally for now: The hot air duct in the bathroom puts out more heat than all the other ducts combined. The duct in the rear by the foot of the bed has very little flow. Blocking the bathroom vent seems to make no change in the volume coming out of the bedroom vent. Dealer says that's just how it is.
I understand that with all the variations makes and styles coming in that it would be next to impossible for a dealer to keep current on everything. Perhaps it's just that I am not pressing the right buttons? This is our first motor home.
Regards:
Victor
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03-30-2017, 08:34 AM
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#2
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bristol, IN
Posts: 18,899
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First off, my apologies for the inconvenience of repairs. Our goal is a showroom ready coach when it arrives to the dealer. With our ramp up and new hires, we have had to adjust some of our QC procedures and personnel. We have also had to create some new procedures and positions to make things are the way we want them. Now on to the questions...
1. Do you know what wattage the Dehumidifier is rated at? There are also other parasitic draws that could be taking the batteries down...also depending on the orientation of the sun, make sure that there are no shadows on the panels. Should last longer than 6 hours. I have been at a show indoors, with all the lights on in the coach and the batteries held at 12v for the entire day (with just the conference center lights powering the solar panels).
2. Furnace should be adjustable either way as that is a 12V fan. I can double check that on the line today.
3. There are multiple outlets on the furnace, so the outlet to the bathroom may not be the same outlet going to the bedroom. I will confirm which one goes where, because maybe the line to the bedroom is kinked. I was in one where the collar came off at the furnace and was heating the heck out of the kitchen base cabinet.
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03-30-2017, 09:29 AM
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#3
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bristol, IN
Posts: 18,899
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2. They are correct. All Suburban furnaces are single speed. Going to 110V would NOT allow you to have variable fan speed, UNLESS you are using the heat pump which uses the roof top airs for heat and has multiple fan speeds. (just be aware these are heat pumps and only operate in certain temps...typically mid 40's.)
3. Each outlet in the 3 series is a dedicated run. There are (4) outlets from the furnace.
A. a 2" duct goes to the front step well
B. a 4" run goes to the kitchen kick plate.
C. a 4" run goes to the bathroom kick plate.
D. a 2" runs goes all the way around the bathroom and out the bedroom wall. That has to push air a long way and a 4" run would not fit. If you put an adjustable damper on the bathroom outlet, that might help...it would not necessarily push more air out the bedroom, but more than likely would out the kitchen kick plate (path of least resistance).
Maybe open up the shower base access panel and see if you can see the duct, make sure its not kinked or anything.
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03-30-2017, 10:33 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 8
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Thanks & a reply
Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens
First off, my apologies for the inconvenience of repairs. Our goal is a showroom ready coach when it arrives to the dealer. With our ramp up and new hires, we have had to adjust some of our QC procedures and personnel. We have also had to create some new procedures and positions to make things are the way we want them. Now on to the questions...
1. Do you know what wattage the Dehumidifier is rated at? There are also other parasitic draws that could be taking the batteries down...also depending on the orientation of the sun, make sure that there are no shadows on the panels. Should last longer than 6 hours. I have been at a show indoors, with all the lights on in the coach and the batteries held at 12v for the entire day (with just the conference center lights powering the solar panels).
No. It is still in the Isata. I left it there for the tech. It is however, just a small 9v ac tp dc power supply. It draws very little. I'm sure much less than the Isata's inverter.
2. Furnace should be adjustable either way as that is a 12V fan. I can double check that on the line today.
3. There are multiple outlets on the furnace, so the outlet to the bathroom may not be the same outlet going to the bedroom. I will confirm which one goes where, because maybe the line to the bedroom is kinked. I was in one where the collar came off at the furnace and was heating the heck out of the kitchen base cabinet.
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Thank you very much for the quick reply. I will pass this on to the dealer.
There is at least one more minor issue. The switches for the stabilizer jacks are wired so that the switch labeled 'R' operates the Driver's side Left rear jack and the switch labeled 'L' operates the right rear jack. The dealer tells me that this is correct and that 'R' and 'L' refers to the right and left as you are looking to the rear of the coach. This to me is ridiculous. Does this mean that when I am facing the switch panel that the front of the coach becomes the rear? It should be a simple matter to swap the wires on the switches as they are right next to each other. Related to that issue is the fact that both times while driving the Isata (to the dealer), the jack warning siren came on. .I had lowered the jacks to test them and retracted them holding the switches until I heard the jacks shut off. Both times it occurred after about 45 minutes of driving. The tech couldn't reproduce it and the rep told me he will have him drive it for a longer time. Something tells me that this will be an ongoing irritation. Can you tell me where the limit switches are and how to solve this problem? The first time occurred on the way top the dealer's main lot & we were told they adjusted it and if it happened again they would replace the switches. The second time was driving to their repair facility. This time the sound was not as loud as before. This to me sounds like a bad switch or a short somewhere.
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03-30-2017, 10:43 AM
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#5
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bristol, IN
Posts: 18,899
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Which leveling jack system do you have? Bigfoot or equalizer?
Or as I re-read this, it appears you may just have the 2 point stabilizer?
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03-30-2017, 10:49 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 8
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Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens
2. They are correct. All Suburban furnaces are single speed. Going to 110V would NOT allow you to have variable fan speed, UNLESS you are using the heat pump which uses the roof top airs for heat and has multiple fan speeds. (just be aware these are heat pumps and only operate in certain temps...typically mid 40's.)
3. Each outlet in the 3 series is a dedicated run. There are (4) outlets from the furnace.
A. a 2" duct goes to the front step well
B. a 4" run goes to the kitchen kick plate.
C. a 4" run goes to the bathroom kick plate.
D. a 2" runs goes all the way around the bathroom and out the bedroom wall. That has to push air a long way and a 4" run would not fit. If you put an adjustable damper on the bathroom outlet, that might help...it would not necessarily push more air out the bedroom, but more than likely would out the kitchen kick plate (path of least resistance).
Maybe open up the shower base access panel and see if you can see the duct, make sure its not kinked or anything.
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Thanks again. I will also pass this on. The Isata is still in their shop so it is unavailable for me to inspect. They are replacing the windshield and fixing leaks. One coming from the base of the post behind the passenger's seat, three other locations front,center, and rear of the slide.
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03-30-2017, 10:50 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens
Which leveling jack system do you have? Bigfoot or equalizer?
Or as I re-read this, it appears you may just have the 2 point stabilizer?
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Yes, The two point stabilizer.
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03-30-2017, 10:55 AM
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#8
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bristol, IN
Posts: 18,899
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That is a pressure switch (I think...could be magnetic) that mounts on the frame of the scissor jacks where they seat up into the frame. jacks may be dropping in transit when hitting bumps or vibrating down. Might needs some adjustment, but let me go take a picture of the sensor first.
As for the R-L....since there is no front or rear to that system, then they are accurate in the description. When facing the switch panel, the right is the driver side and the left is the passenger side. Front and rear are sort of moot in that there are no switches for that.
It is the most intuitive way, unless you are comparing it to to a 4 point leveling system and then it would be screwy. In any event, it would be a simple swap of wires to change that.
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03-30-2017, 11:13 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens
That is a pressure switch (I think...could be magnetic) that mounts on the frame of the scissor jacks where they seat up into the frame. jacks may be dropping in transit when hitting bumps or vibrating down. Might needs some adjustment, but let me go take a picture of the sensor first.
As for the R-L....since there is no front or rear to that system, then they are accurate in the description. When facing the switch panel, the right is the driver side and the left is the passenger side. Front and rear are sort of moot in that there are no switches for that.
It is the most intuitive way, unless you are comparing it to to a 4 point leveling system and then it would be screwy. In any event, it would be a simple swap of wires to change that.
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Well, maybe not for me. I don't take the orientation of a switch panel in consideration when operating the switches. I go by the labels. Right to me is the right side of the vehicle. I can't be the only one. Somewhere on here I read that the stabilizer jacks can be used for minor leveling. That would make right & left more intuitive when oriented with the coach as a whole, not just the panel. I think I'll opt to switch them. No pun intended.
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03-30-2017, 01:37 PM
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#10
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bristol, IN
Posts: 18,899
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I have some OCD tendencies, so I understand. There are certain things that have to be a certain way for me. I actually checked one on the line...the driver side switch, operated the driver side jack. Actually if they weren't labeled (R-L) and just "just rear jacks", I think it might be more acceptable. Then it makes sense that the switches exactly mimic the location of the jacks. Maybe a sticker would make more sense than re-wiring.
As for the switch...I thought it was on the top of the outside, which the slightest drop would set off the buzzer. However its actually at the knuckle...which makes sense, it would be less sensitive there. Looks threaded, so they should be able to adjust to wherever they want.
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03-30-2017, 02:09 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 8
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switch
Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens
I have some OCD tendencies, so I understand. There are certain things that have to be a certain way for me. I actually checked one on the line...the driver side switch, operated the driver side jack. Actually if they weren't labeled (R-L) and just "just rear jacks", I think it might be more acceptable. Then it makes sense that the switches exactly mimic the location of the jacks. Maybe a sticker would make more sense than re-wiring.
As for the switch...I thought it was on the top of the outside, which the slightest drop would set off the buzzer. However its actually at the knuckle...which makes sense, it would be less sensitive there. Looks threaded, so they should be able to adjust to wherever they want.
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Thanks! It should be pretty obvious then if it is the switch, or a short in the wiring the next time it comes on while driving. I'll pull over and look at the switches. What bothers me is that the second time the alarm sounded (after they readjusted the switches following the first time the alarm sounded), it was a fraction of the volume. Still noticeable, but not near as loud.
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