Super C drive characteristics

[Rumline]

Today I paid a visit to my local dealer who had a 2015 DX3 on the lot. I took it for a test drive, having never driven anything close to that size before. I was vert proud to not run over any little old ladies or hit any telephone poles. But seriously the steering was very touchy, like the front wheels would move a degree or so extremely easily. I was driving on a mostly straight two-lane country road that isn't the most even, and I had a hard time keeping it going straight. Constant little adjustments. When it came time to execute a turn the steering got progressively more stiff to about the level of turning effort that I'd expect, but that was with maybe 3/4 of a turn on the steering wheel.

Is this normal for these rigs to behave that way? If not, is this something that is straightforward to adjust?

I liked that trucks coming the other way at 55-60 mph just feet away did not jostle the rig at all. I guess that's what >20k lbs will do for you, heh.

If anybody has any anecdotes from when you learned to drive your Super C or pearls of wisdom for newbies I'd love to read them.

[Scrapper]

Super C and larger units are definitely not going to drive like your car, pickup or full size van. Remember, with a class C you are driving a medium duty truck usually used to haul cargo. Class A's are more like a Greyhound bus.

[mikew968]

If you were on a 2 lane crowned road the unit might feel darty. Probably need to drive in the interstate. Mine is rock solid with a consistent steering feel.

[FOURWHL]

Sounds like it could use an alignment. A little toe in does wonders for stability on big tires. Whether it's an RV or a Jeep. That said, yes it's more involved keeping one of these on the road than a passenger car.

[CSWVK]

We installed a Safe-T-Plus RV Steering Stabilizer on our 2018 DX3 and was a nice improvement on country roads. We also have a heavy duty steering stabilizer one on our Jeep toad.

[ETF]

I had the opposite experience. We moved up to the DX3 from another 30 foot Class "C" that was a nightmare to drive. On every trip you had to drive and steer every foot of the way. I tried changing tire pressures and redistributing weight but nothing helped. It was exhausting to travel anywhere and it got buffeted and pushed all over the place on the freeway. Every trip was a white knuckle experience.

The DX3 on the other hand is a joy by comparison. It doesn't drive like a laser but after I got the tire pressures sorted out it is pretty darned solid on the road. You know that you're not driving a Fiat 500 but it is very manageable.

[jkoenig24]

My 2015 DX3 did NOT have the Bilstein front shock absorbers as an OEM item. I believe they were $1000 option that had to be ordered in advance. I added them in year two (or was it year three?) and, they made for a much improved ride. Sadly, at that time, Bilstein did NOT have a replacement for the rear shocks. Front Bilsteins might be OEM these days.

[FOURWHL]

Originally Posted by ETF

I had the opposite experience. We moved up to the DX3 from another 30 foot Class "C" that was a nightmare to drive. On every trip you had to drive and steer every foot of the way. I tried changing tire pressures and redistributing weight but nothing helped. It was exhausting to travel anywhere and it got buffeted and pushed all over the place on the freeway. Every trip was a white knuckle experience.

The DX3 on the other hand is a joy by comparison. It doesn't drive like a laser but after I got the tire pressures sorted out it is pretty darned solid on the road. You know that you're not driving a Fiat 500 but it is very manageable.

I think you hit it on the head with the fact that a lot has to do with what you're comparing to. I have lifted jeep on big tires, it drives as good or better than my jeep. My wife coming from an Audi was surprised how much input was required.

[Rumline]

Thanks for the replies. I definitely expected it to handle "differently" but found it odd for the steering wheel to be so fickle in the center. It did it at any speed, even on perfectly flat roads closer to town. The vehicle that this steering most reminds me of is my mom's old Honda Civic. Like they thought it was more "sporty" to have no inertia to the wheel from center.

Originally Posted by CSWVK

We installed a Safe-T-Plus RV Steering Stabilizer on our 2018 DX3 and was a nice improvement on country roads. We also have a heavy duty steering stabilizer one on our Jeep toad.

Thanks for that. If the coach we end up buying has this same issue I will look into adding one, if an alignment job doesn't fix it.

[FFred]

"I will look into adding one, if an alignment job doesn't fix it"

You will need a truck alignment shop , not an auto shop.

The rear and front wheels are part of a truck alignment..

[AWF1945]

Before buying, or adding anything to the steering components I would have Freightliner inspect the front end completely. Just my two cents.

[halla]

There is a facebook post about adjusting the lash on the trw steering

[KRedburn]

x2 with FFred


Most truck alignments set toe at 0. This is for longevity of the tire when an OTR is doing many many miles per year.

Most shops align for toe in when there are "steering issues". This is done for easier turning. Toe in should be no more than 1/16 total IMO.

I personally have my vehicles (both MH and personal trucks/cars set at 1/16 total toe out. This is 1/32" each side relative to the thrust (rear) alignment. What this does is helps with straight line stability. I have done this for over 40 years driving including semi trucks. I have experienced absolutely no adverse affects on the wearablity of tires.

Just my 2 cents worth.

[sconnors11]

Originally Posted by KRedburn

x2 with FFred


Most truck alignments set toe at 0. This is for longevity of the tire when an OTR is doing many many miles per year.

Most shops align for toe in when there are "steering issues". This is done for easier turning. Toe in should be no more than 1/16 total IMO.

I personally have my vehicles (both MH and personal trucks/cars set at 1/16 total toe out. This is 1/32" each side relative to the thrust (rear) alignment. What this does is helps with straight line stability. I have done this for over 40 years driving including semi trucks. I have experienced absolutely no adverse affects on the wearablity of tires.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Really? "Toe out' not "Toe in"??

[mikew968]

Toe out causes the vehicle twitchiness. Toe in creates stability. Toes out make turning in easier