Towing ~8k with dx3 or XL

[FOURWHL]

Originally Posted by wfo9

Yea, that is pretty much my use case. I love Colorado, but realistically only make it out there once a year or so right now. Moab is another destination I plan to hit, but think the grades will not be as extreme.

How does it handle the trailer in terms of the wheelbase and the tail bobbing....? I've done plenty of towing, but never driven anything this big before.

This thread also got me thinking about the forceHD as an option with a friendlier price point and maybe a bit less weight.

Also, does anyone know approximate leadtime on a DX3 or ForceHD factory order. Ideally, I would like to get a dx3 or maybe even force HD with the 112 chassis and motor and from reading another thread it sounds like that can be ordered. But I'm also inpatient and want to start using it ASAP LOL.

Barely even notice it’s bsck there. I wouldn’t obsess over the wheel base too much. My hitch is lower (many have raised theirs) because my trailer sits perfectly level and I barely ever drag. When I do it’s the bottom ball on the hitch so no biggie.

Driving the rig will take more getting used to than towing with it. Took me about 500 mi on the way home from TX to not get all white knuckled every time I made a pass lol. Now it’s as comfortable as driving my Jeep.

Lead times are lengthy 4-6mo I think but I’m not the one to comment on that in any official capacity

On the Force HD the thing to determine is if you want aqua hot or are ok with a furnace and if you want the whole coach on inverter or are ok with partial. Those are the biggest differences in my mind (there are some other smaller considerations)

[Gas-man]

Driving the rig will take more getting used to than towing with it. Took me about 500 mi on the way home from TX to not get all white knuckled every time I made a pass lol. Now it’s as comfortable as driving my Jeep.


Agree 100%. The drive home from the dealer was a learning curve for sure.
Now it's no problem driving it and pulling a 26 ft trailer.

[Gas-man]

my previous crawlers...

[FOURWHL]

I’m struggling to refrain from getting a trailer that’ll haul both of mine. Running out of room in the barn already

[wfo9]

Originally Posted by FOURWHL

On the Force HD the thing to determine is if you want aqua hot or are ok with a furnace and if you want the whole coach on inverter or are ok with partial. Those are the biggest differences in my mind (there are some other smaller considerations)

I'm a bit clueless at the moment. I think I know what aqua hot is (diesel fueled heating element for water and air?). I assume the alternative uses propane/electric.

I also know what inverters do in terms of power conversion from DC to AC to run off batteries, but I don't yet know what the practical differences are from whole coach inverter vs partial and how that plays with the generator when not on shore power....

Much to learn.

[FOURWHL]

So the aqua hot is hydronic (think radiant heat, but instead of in the floor the coolant lines run to heat exchangers all over the coach which then blow hot air). Alternative is a traditional furnace. Aqua hot can run off either propane or diesel. In addition to being quieter to a furnace it also is your hot water heater which results in what amounts to basically on demand hot water. I didn’t give it much thought when i bought ours but after having it I can definitely recommend it if you can swing it.

Inverter turns 12v into 110v so whenever you’re not plugged in you can run your household outlets off the batteries (TV, stereo, plugs, etc). The smaller inverter means some outlets will only be available when plugged in or on generator. In mine everything (except for air condtioning) runs off battery with the inverter.

[Orangecrush]

Originally Posted by mikew968

I currently tow 8000 lbs with a 6.7 and while it does pretty good I am looking for a DX3...thinking that will get the job done a bit better.

Originally Posted by wfo9

First off. I'm totally new to RVing.. I've never actually owned one, however I have owned just about every other money pit you can think of (race cars, off-road trucks, boats...)

I sort of know what I'm getting into from that perspective and I'm pretty self sufficient and and a quick learner when it comes to fixing things with a motor and wheels on it. But I admittedly know nothing about RVs and I'm a total newb who is more or less clueless, so I apologize in advance for possibly asking common knowledge questions. The thought of spending this much money on something I may not be 100% satisfied with is concerning....

I know I should probably start with a cheaper starter RV.. but my entire use case involves towing a 7500k trailer around with my rock crawler or on of my other vehicles on it.

I've got a million questions, but my top priority is towing and I ran across the Dynamax DX3 and it looks like it might meet our needs. What I'm questioning first, is what it will be like in terms of towing power. Is the 350hp 1K tq of the m2 106 enough or is the 112 a much better choice. I plan to spend some time in the mountains, but I will mainly be on moderate grades. I may eventually pickup up a lighter vehicle I can flat tow (jeep...) but I will still need to pull a trailer for many trips to events....

Another basic question I have is about dealers. I live in central Texas and the closest Dynamax dealer is either MHSRV near ft worth or holiday world near Houston. Anyone have experience with these two. I'm about 150mi from both.

Thanks for your time.

I'll tell you something to consider. I have a 2013 F-250 with a 6.7. It does a decent job but you can obviously tell you're pulling something that weighs 7K lbs.

I originally looked at an Isata 5 with the same 6.7. I bought the DX3 because it had a 20K towing capacity and with 350 HP and 1000 ft lbs, what's not to like?

Well, here's the problem. The weight difference between an Isata 5 and a DX3 brings my 1000 ft. lbs of torque probably equivalent to a smaller unit. When I took my DX3 for a test drive, I couldn't believe how fast/quick it was. When I started pulling my trailer (total weight approx. 7-8K loaded) I could definitely tell a difference.

My friend with 400/1200 in a class A pusher runs up the hill much faster than I can.

Don't get me wrong, it'll work but going up steep hills, you'll drop down to 35-40 mph. I tend to have a heavy foot and clearly I need more in the 600/1500 range. I've been looking at tuners but I don't think that will help with towing.

If you want more HP/TQ, you'll have to step up to something like a Newmar that increases HP/TQ with each model upgrade.

Having said all this, while I'm a little disappointed in the power part of the DX3 when pulling a trailer, I would still buy it again. I can deal with slowing down up a steep hill for the few hills I climb because the DX3 is a fantastic unit.


Mark

[Orangecrush]

Originally Posted by FOURWHL

I’m struggling to refrain from getting a trailer that’ll haul both of mine. Running out of room in the barn already

When I ordered my trailer, I tried every configuration to get both my rzr and jeep in the trailer at the same time. It simply wouldn't work, (even with a stacker), The only way was to buy a 30'+ trailer and for the few times I would want to tow both, it's not worth the hassle. So now it's one or the other...


Mark

[wfo9]

Originally Posted by Orangecrush

I'll tell you something to consider. I have a 2013 F-250 with a 6.7. It does a decent job but you can obviously tell you're pulling something that weighs 7K lbs.

I originally looked at an Isata 5 with the same 6.7. I bought the DX3 because it had a 20K towing capacity and with 350 HP and 1000 ft lbs, what's not to like?

Well, here's the problem. The weight difference between an Isata 5 and a DX3 brings my 1000 ft. lbs of torque probably equivalent to a smaller unit. When I took my DX3 for a test drive, I couldn't believe how fast/quick it was. When I started pulling my trailer (total weight approx. 7-8K loaded) I could definitely tell a difference.

My friend with 400/1200 in a class A pusher runs up the hill much faster than I can.

Don't get me wrong, it'll work but going up steep hills, you'll drop down to 35-40 mph. I tend to have a heavy foot and clearly I need more in the 600/1500 range. I've been looking at tuners but I don't think that will help with towing.

If you want more HP/TQ, you'll have to step up to something like a Newmar that increases HP/TQ with each model upgrade.

Having said all this, while I'm a little disappointed in the power part of the DX3 when pulling a trailer, I would still buy it again. I can deal with slowing down up a steep hill for the few hills I climb because the DX3 is a fantastic unit.


Mark

I'm actually re-thinking my overall use case a bit. Although I will still be towing my crawler around at times that should be in moderate grades.

For the trips in the mountain or across the country.. I'll probably just buy a jeep JL TOAD and flat tow it. That should help ease the pain a bit only pulling ~4k. I would love a big power house coach, but 250k is about the end of my budget right now although I might be able to stretch it to an XL. A used class A might be better, but for some reason I'm attracted to the truck chassis from a mechanical and packaging perspective. Although I'm just going on gut feel and don't really have any experience with RVs to back it up with any facts.

[RV Randy]

I also tow almost 8k trailer in Colorado. I have zero pitching or bucking. You feel the weight but it doesn't affect the handling. 45mph on the long steep grades, the rest of the time it just cruises at 1700 rpm nice and smooth.

[Orangecrush]

Originally Posted by wfo9

I'm actually re-thinking my overall use case a bit. Although I will still be towing my crawler around at times that should be in moderate grades.

For the trips in the mountain or across the country.. I'll probably just buy a jeep JL TOAD and flat tow it. That should help ease the pain a bit only pulling ~4k. I would love a big power house coach, but 250k is about the end of my budget right now although I might be able to stretch it to an XL. A used class A might be better, but for some reason I'm attracted to the truck chassis from a mechanical and packaging perspective. Although I'm just going on gut feel and don't really have any experience with RVs to back it up with any facts.

I traded in a 2015 Newmar Ventana diesel that was 400HP. I liked the Newmar but LOVE the DX3. You won't regret it at all, like I said, the few times I have to slow down to 40 mph, I can live with. She'll pull along like nothing is back there.

Mark

[RV Randy]

Originally Posted by Orangecrush

I'll tell you something to consider. I have a 2013 F-250 with a 6.7. It does a decent job but you can obviously tell you're pulling something that weighs 7K lbs.

I originally looked at an Isata 5 with the same 6.7. I bought the DX3 because it had a 20K towing capacity and with 350 HP and 1000 ft lbs, what's not to like?

Well, here's the problem. The weight difference between an Isata 5 and a DX3 brings my 1000 ft. lbs of torque probably equivalent to a smaller unit. When I took my DX3 for a test drive, I couldn't believe how fast/quick it was. When I started pulling my trailer (total weight approx. 7-8K loaded) I could definitely tell a difference.

My friend with 400/1200 in a class A pusher runs up the hill much faster than I can.

Don't get me wrong, it'll work but going up steep hills, you'll drop down to 35-40 mph. I tend to have a heavy foot and clearly I need more in the 600/1500 range. I've been looking at tuners but I don't think that will help with towing.

If you want more HP/TQ, you'll have to step up to something like a Newmar that increases HP/TQ with each model upgrade.

Having said all this, while I'm a little disappointed in the power part of the DX3 when pulling a trailer, I would still buy it again. I can deal with slowing down up a steep hill for the few hills I climb because the DX3 is a fantastic unit.


Mark

My previous class A had the 6.7 and probably weighed 5k less, so the additional weight of the DX3 soaks up some of 8.9's HP and torque increase. But it still tows better than that particular class A did, better stopping power too with the Jake brake versus the exhaust brake. Better ride and handling too IMO. And when the time comes, much easier to service and repair. I've heard, the 6.7 is basically a throw away engine when it needs a rebuild whereas the 8.9 can be rebuilt almost endlessly. Not a factor on most RVs but something to think about.

And, the DX3 chassis engine/trans/brakes/suspension( not just the hitch) are rated to safely tow 20k, the 6.7s are usually 10k.

[Orangecrush]

Originally Posted by RV Randy

And, the DX3 chassis engine/trans/brakes/suspension( not just the hitch) are rated to safely tow 20k, the 6.7s are usually 10k.

Which I find funny considering that a 6.7 in a Ford F350 dually is rated to pull 26K lbs.

Mark

[RV Randy]

But an F350 does not weigh 30,000 pounds, so that consumes a lot of the capacity.

[Orangecrush]

Originally Posted by RV Randy

But an F350 does not weigh 30,000 pounds, so that consumes a lot of the capacity.

I understand, I was making the point that how such a smaller truck had more of a towing capacity than our huge DX3's. I thought it was weird.

Mark

[formerFR]

Originally Posted by wfo9

...but I don't yet know what the practical differences are from whole coach inverter vs partial and how that plays with the generator when not on shore power....

there's really no such thing as a 'partial' inverter, they are ALL inverters, but it's what the factory hooks it up to(breaker panel, wise) as to what you are referring to as 'partial' vs 'whole coach'.

Some smaller inverters are installed simply to power the RESIDENTIAL FRIDGE, since it is 120v, and requires power even when there is no Shore Power or Generator power. Sometimes the factory will add a secondary 'outlet' somewhere within the coach, or they may also provide the wiring to the outlets that power the TVs, etc., but sometimes it's not 'all' of the outlets in the coach.

Larger inverters are more for the 'whole coach' as they have enough output to provide the Fridge and all the other outlets... so you don't really see any difference when you are traveling, or dry-camping, without Shore Power or Generator....most everything continues to work from the Inverter(the exceptions are air conditioners and water heater, etc.)

As for how these inverters 'work' with the generator, regardless of whether you have a small inverter or a large one, the Generator is acting just like Shore Power - providing 120v power to the whole coach, including the air conditioners and the battery Charger(part of the Inverter in many cases), AND all the things that run off the inverter, as the Inverter is now just 'passing thru' the power to it's circuit own breakers as well.

I suppose that our Palazzo is wired as a 'whole coach' Inverter system, as the Magnum ME2012 Inverter/Charger is wired to a subpanel, with circuit breakers that provide power to all 4 outlet circuits(every outlet in our coach, including microwave, tvs, fridge, etc... one of these circuits also runs thru a GFCI outlet in the bathroom, providing protection to the others on the same circuit, such as at the kitchen counter, and the outside storage bay.
The other items in the breaker box, such as the two Air Conditioners, each on 20amp breakers, the water heater, the block heater, and the battery Charger, are only powered when you are either on the Generator or plugged into Shore Power - their draws are too large for the Inverter.

[LTZ470]

I'm still getting a HUGE amount of pitching on the Louisiana and Texas roads especially at Bridge Transitions...fells like the suspension is way soft or over loaded...towing only a Jeep with tow bar no trailer...

[RV Randy]

Originally Posted by LTZ470

I'm still getting a HUGE amount of pitching on the Louisiana and Texas roads especially at Bridge Transitions...fells like the suspension is way soft or over loaded...towing only a Jeep with tow bar no trailer...

Are you sure your rear air suspension is airing up fully,? Did you leave the rear air dump switch on accidentally? Something is not right if you are experiencing that with just a toad

[LTZ470]

Originally Posted by RV Randy

Are you sure your rear air suspension is airing up fully,? Did you leave the rear air dump switch on accidentally? Something is not right if you are experiencing that with just a toad

We are going to check that at and confirm ride height is correct...

Been using rear dump since 2006 on my M2 106, it would damage the bags and you would hear all kinds of popping in the rear if you tried to turn with them dumped...

Yeah, it's either these road beds are porpoised too much or this suspension is lacking somewhere, could be a bad batch of shocks? They look OK no blown seals or any visible signs of failure....

[FOURWHL]

Mine will buck a few times (once or twice) over bad bridges or RR crossings. Is yours doing it more than that? You may be onto something if the shocks aren’t dampening correctly