Nice trip from N Virginia to FL. Arrived late in the evening. Engine light came on last night about 50-80 miles from my last fuel stop. Glad I purchased a engine fuel filter and a fuel/water separator filter before leaving on this trip. Besides the engine light, I learned four new things I need to repair:
1. The windshield leaks when raining. Not sure how to fix except to take the windshield out and redo the mounding. See pictures:
2. When I opened the electrical door to connect the electrical lines, one side was hanging down. the one screw was laying on the bottom. I checked how to fix it this morning. Seems I just need to screw in two new screws. After checking further, I noticed no hole in the other screw hole. No wonder this side fell down, it was missing a screw.
3. My lovely bride asked me to fix the dryer this morning. What's wrong with it? It makes a lot of noise in the front when on, and something is hanging over the knob. Minor fix. The stabilization bar was installed incorrectly.
4. Entry door instrument panel is coming apart. Wondering if anyone's knows if I can screw this in versus taking it apart and re-glueing it?
5. Checked my refrigerator Slim, my top bracket is screwed in. Thanks for the info.
What was the issue with the carpeted bar...came loose, or installed sort of backwards like in the picture?
Do you have a picture of the entry panel?
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No. I just looked at one online. The harness comes up from the bottom and into the back of the plug. Should be able to pop a screw into the outside corner and be safe.
I shot this picture over to engineering...they put that frame because the wall is not deep enough to plug the harness into the back of the switches effectively. My first thought is, why not make the wall deeper? (so they'll be working on that soon). However for you unit...screws should be just fine.
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I was at NAS Penn for a wedding some time ago. It was amazing. I was hoping to see what an amazing trip you had, how awesome the beaches etc were. Sorry to hear it had a few headaches. Still an awesome place.
Funny thing though. That wedding cleared out at 7PM leaving a bunch of us Canadaina wondering were everyone went. We stayed and partied playing the Tragically Hip all night. Fun trip though !!
Brian-roger on the screws in each corner. We can adjust the frame later.
We are at Blue Angeles at Correy Station.. On the beach. 93 degrees with a breeze. Water is 80 degrees. Clean place.
The country store here stocks only four essential items: beer, ice, bait and ice cream. Any thing else, you have to head out to the commissary. I have not been to the commissary yet.
Update on my check engine light issue: actually, it is not the check engine light, it is the Malfunction Engine Light which means I have some type of emissions related issue.
Does anyone have experience retrieving codes off the M-106 dash display? I need to figure out the fault code to move forward diagnosing this thing. Thanks!
I had an emission check light. After it sat for a few months over winter. I called a dealer while we were in Florida and they pulled the code up in their software. Luckily mine was a build up from sitting, after day two it went off and has not come back on.
Thanks. Hopefully mine will go away after I drained the f/w sep filter and added some Kleen. I've been filling at Flying J using either the RV or truck lanes. Truck lanes to get DEF. I not sure where else I can fill up this bear.
Because mine sits sometimes for a week or so I add OptiLube xpd. It is costly but raises the cetane level and keeps the fuel from turning to jelly and clogging filters etc... Gives me piece of mind I guess.
Update on my check engine light issue: actually, it is not the check engine light, it is the Malfunction Engine Light which means I have some type of emissions related issue.
Does anyone have experience retrieving codes off the M-106 dash display? I need to figure out the fault code to move forward diagnosing this thing. Thanks!
Mike
2016 Force HD
If you can give it a good run at highway speed to clear it
alternately you can do the active regen with the switch on the dash but temps of the exhaust will exceed 1200f and say goodbye to 10-20 gals of fuel
r
Brian--returned to VA from FL. The screws did not work. I have way to many holes the installers made when they initially tried to install the electrical cord system. I need another engineering solution to firmly attach the electrical cord system to the underneath flooring. Can you help me out with an interim solution until I get this rig to your place sometime middle of next year? Thanks Mike.
I dont know how large the holes are in the wood. But have you tried a premium zinc wall plug? I have used them when the wood has been opened up and screws will not hold.
No I have not. Perhaps this might be a good interim solution. I was thinking a good engineering solution to this electrical cord system is a squared bracket structure similar to that in battery compartment. The electrical cord system is heavy. I have to use a 3/4 plywood base with 2x4s to brace it when screwing back into place. When you hit the six-0 mile marker (age), it gets just a bit more difficult using lower back to perform tasks we found a bit easier back in the day.
Thanks Halla for the advice here. Would you happen to have a good suggestion for the type of screw to use with this insert?
I normally buy them at Lowes/HD. I get the ones made for 50lbs or more, the screws that come with them are decent, then I add washers.
My issue with the electric cord was the hatch to get it out, was kind of awkward. I cut one into the bottom of the storage bin, with rollers underneath, much easier and quicker now to hook up and roll up the cord.
I'll have to look at one and we don't have a 36FK on the line...let me check with engineering.
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OK, well I don't know about "temporary fixes"...what appears to have happened on a couple of the FK's is that the backer was on the wrong side...if that makes sense. In any event, that's why they tried to use long screws.
BEST fix, is to screw a large piece of plywood (or aluminum tube/angle) to the roof of the compartment stretching from joist to joist . Then screw the cord hanger to that. Engineering actually cut me one to size and painted it black.
Just to be clear, I am not asking you to do this, it is certainly covered under warranty and can be corrected when you come in the middle of next year. If you want a temporary fix, the anchors might work...but this would work for the long haul.
I have attached a floor joist print and a small blow up of that section. You can only hit on the front and side...the other side you can, but you would have to angle them over.
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Thanks Brian. For now, I've braced the system with 2x4s supported underneath w/3/4 plywood. I also tried a much thicker wood screw. No luck. I'll try Halla's idea and see if it will work with the wood brace. Thanks again.
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