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Old 07-20-2016, 07:43 PM   #11
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Thanks. Hopefully mine will go away after I drained the f/w sep filter and added some Kleen. I've been filling at Flying J using either the RV or truck lanes. Truck lanes to get DEF. I not sure where else I can fill up this bear.


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Old 07-20-2016, 08:20 PM   #12
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Because mine sits sometimes for a week or so I add OptiLube xpd. It is costly but raises the cetane level and keeps the fuel from turning to jelly and clogging filters etc... Gives me piece of mind I guess.


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Old 07-20-2016, 10:47 PM   #13
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Update on my check engine light issue: actually, it is not the check engine light, it is the Malfunction Engine Light which means I have some type of emissions related issue.

Does anyone have experience retrieving codes off the M-106 dash display? I need to figure out the fault code to move forward diagnosing this thing. Thanks!


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If you can give it a good run at highway speed to clear it
alternately you can do the active regen with the switch on the dash but temps of the exhaust will exceed 1200f and say goodbye to 10-20 gals of fuel
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Old 07-29-2016, 11:09 AM   #14
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Brian--returned to VA from FL. The screws did not work. I have way to many holes the installers made when they initially tried to install the electrical cord system. I need another engineering solution to firmly attach the electrical cord system to the underneath flooring. Can you help me out with an interim solution until I get this rig to your place sometime middle of next year? Thanks Mike.


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Old 07-29-2016, 11:16 AM   #15
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I dont know how large the holes are in the wood. But have you tried a premium zinc wall plug? I have used them when the wood has been opened up and screws will not hold.

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quali...l+screw+anchor
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Old 07-29-2016, 11:28 AM   #16
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No I have not. Perhaps this might be a good interim solution. I was thinking a good engineering solution to this electrical cord system is a squared bracket structure similar to that in battery compartment. The electrical cord system is heavy. I have to use a 3/4 plywood base with 2x4s to brace it when screwing back into place. When you hit the six-0 mile marker (age), it gets just a bit more difficult using lower back to perform tasks we found a bit easier back in the day.

Thanks Halla for the advice here. Would you happen to have a good suggestion for the type of screw to use with this insert?




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Old 07-29-2016, 11:42 AM   #17
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I normally buy them at Lowes/HD. I get the ones made for 50lbs or more, the screws that come with them are decent, then I add washers.

My issue with the electric cord was the hatch to get it out, was kind of awkward. I cut one into the bottom of the storage bin, with rollers underneath, much easier and quicker now to hook up and roll up the cord.
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Old 07-29-2016, 01:48 PM   #18
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I'll have to look at one and we don't have a 36FK on the line...let me check with engineering.
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Old 07-29-2016, 04:01 PM   #19
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OK, well I don't know about "temporary fixes"...what appears to have happened on a couple of the FK's is that the backer was on the wrong side...if that makes sense. In any event, that's why they tried to use long screws.

BEST fix, is to screw a large piece of plywood (or aluminum tube/angle) to the roof of the compartment stretching from joist to joist . Then screw the cord hanger to that. Engineering actually cut me one to size and painted it black.

Just to be clear, I am not asking you to do this, it is certainly covered under warranty and can be corrected when you come in the middle of next year. If you want a temporary fix, the anchors might work...but this would work for the long haul.

I have attached a floor joist print and a small blow up of that section. You can only hit on the front and side...the other side you can, but you would have to angle them over.
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Old 07-29-2016, 08:34 PM   #20
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Thanks Brian. For now, I've braced the system with 2x4s supported underneath w/3/4 plywood. I also tried a much thicker wood screw. No luck. I'll try Halla's idea and see if it will work with the wood brace. Thanks again.


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