Valance Removal/Blind Repair

[bclemens]

I had a customer that had a blind fall. This happens more on trucks than smaller units, because they have day/night shades which are heavier. On occasion, the bouncing can pull the screws out of the clips that hold the blind onto the valance.

They wanted to fix it, but were unsure how.

You can, in theory, unclip the blind, put longer screws in the clips and put the blind back up. Its really much easier when the valance is down. And it typically only takes (4) screws.

There are two easy ones. At the bottom of the valance legs, there are two small angle brackets. Just take the screws out of the wall portion.

The two tough ones are hidden up between the blind and the wall. If you use a long extension, move the blind out of the way and you will have just enough room to get to the screws that go through the metal bracket into the roof of the valance. Take those out and the whole assembly will come off the wall.

Once you pull the valance you should easily be able to see how to get the blind out of the clips (there can be different styles). Run longer screws into the blind clips(careful not too long or you will go through the top of the valance). If you have a wood cap, you can go up to 1".

Once that is done, you have two nice metal tabs on the wall, you can set the valance on. Run the screws in the legs to hold it and then reinstall the screws into the roof of the valance.

Happy trails....saved a trip to the dealer.

(Superior penmanship brought to you by public education and a preference for typing)

[FOURWHL]

This forum needs more sketches like this!

Good info. Used it once already

[bclemens]

While it may not look like it...I used to be pretty decent in AutoCAD. Seems like a lifetime ago, but I was "head of engineering" (whatever that meant, since I carried no engineering degree) for a modular commercial builder. Designed structural, mechanical, electrical, plumbing, etc.

We built some pretty cool stuff...modular office space for an aircraft carrier retrofit (24x60' double wide that could be moved on casters). Temporary Men's/Women's restrooms for the Museum of art in Chicago for use while they remodeled theirs (art deco tile). Lab space for Batelle in Ohio to house laboratory mice. Needed to be mouse escape proof. (fun times).

Problem is, the last time I used it was AutoCAD 2000. So they don't let me touch Inventor and the other programs they use today

[FOURWHL]

Yeah autocad has evolved a bit since 2000

TBH as a practicing engineer I appreciate a good sketch as much/more than a polished CAD drawing. They both have their place but being able to quickly and accurately put a sketch together seems to be a dying art

[chroniekon]

It beats the marked up drawing I got one time for a rush job with a note attached that said "shape like drawing, beat to fit, paint to match"

[bclemens]

In that case, you should see the cardboard model I built at Sunseeker. I was trying to relay how I wanted the "wedged" mattress to work. So I built one...not to scale of course, but just to get the point across.

I should track that down...I'm thinking I missed a call from the Smithsonian

[halla]

Can you use crayon next time to highlight different sections? Lol

I have fixed three of our blinds, two of them I used a black screw through the valance with a lock nut inside. Those are holding the best and unless you are 6'5" you cant see the screws and they blend in.

[bclemens]

The first time I scanned it was black and white. I did not use my trusty red pen for NOTHING. So I had to rescan in color to show off my very draftsmany use of the dotted line and color to indicate hidden features

Notice the lower left bracket is solid...right bracket is dotted? Although I am pretty ashamed of the top brackets. Where shown, they would be even with the top of the wood cap...instead of accurately represented about an 1" lower. But hey even I make mistakes.

[Izzy3]

This is awesome..
To us M.H owners/Handymen that drawing looks like a Picasso.

Thanks for knowledge share.

[dlfishing]

Originally Posted by bclemens

I had a customer that had a blind fall. This happens more on trucks than smaller units, because they have day/night shades which are heavier. On occasion, the bouncing can pull the screws out of the clips that hold the blind onto the valance.

They wanted to fix it, but were unsure how.

You can, in theory, unclip the blind, put longer screws in the clips and put the blind back up. Its really much easier when the valance is down. And it typically only takes (4) screws.

There are two easy ones. At the bottom of the valance legs, there are two small angle brackets. Just take the screws out of the wall portion.

The two tough ones are hidden up between the blind and the wall. If you use a long extension, move the blind out of the way and you will have just enough room to get to the screws that go through the metal bracket into the roof of the valance. Take those out and the whole assembly will come off the wall.

Once you pull the valance you should easily be able to see how to get the blind out of the clips (there can be different styles). Run longer screws into the blind clips(careful not too long or you will go through the top of the valance). If you have a wood cap, you can go up to 1".

Once that is done, you have two nice metal tabs on the wall, you can set the valance on. Run the screws in the legs to hold it and then reinstall the screws into the roof of the valance.

Happy trails....saved a trip to the dealer.

(Superior penmanship brought to you by public education and a preference for typing)

Thanks, I need to fix my bedroom as well. The drawing helps a lot.
I'm a Civil Engineer ( retired) and I couldn't have depicted it any better.

[halla]

The screws that hold the blinds in place are only about a 1/4" long. I drilled through the top of the valance and put flat head bolts through to hold them. You cannot see the bolt heads on top (used black bolts) and they have less chance of vibrating out. I used a pretty thin bolt.

[halla]

https://www.amazon.com/Comdox-500pcs...ad+socket+head

[Jim34RL]

Originally Posted by bclemens

I had a customer that had a blind fall. This happens more on trucks than smaller units, because they have day/night shades which are heavier. On occasion, the bouncing can pull the screws out of the clips that hold the blind onto the valance.

They wanted to fix it, but were unsure how.

You can, in theory, unclip the blind, put longer screws in the clips and put the blind back up. Its really much easier when the valance is down. And it typically only takes (4) screws.

There are two easy ones. At the bottom of the valance legs, there are two small angle brackets. Just take the screws out of the wall portion.

The two tough ones are hidden up between the blind and the wall. If you use a long extension, move the blind out of the way and you will have just enough room to get to the screws that go through the metal bracket into the roof of the valance. Take those out and the whole assembly will come off the wall.

Once you pull the valance you should easily be able to see how to get the blind out of the clips (there can be different styles). Run longer screws into the blind clips(careful not too long or you will go through the top of the valance). If you have a wood cap, you can go up to 1".

Once that is done, you have two nice metal tabs on the wall, you can set the valance on. Run the screws in the legs to hold it and then reinstall the screws into the roof of the valance.

Happy trails....saved a trip to the dealer.

(Superior penmanship brought to you by public education and a preference for typing)

I know this is for the DYNAMAX issue but I had one of my window blinds fail also on my CEDAR CREEK. I need to replace a failed bracket (one is on ordered).

I spent about an hour trying to reinstall my Roller Shade. (I had to watch my language as I struggled to re-install this roller shade. Grandkids where present)

My DW took to the internet and Google this problem; Up came your post and some others. Once I was able to figure out that the valances are attached to the roller shade supports everything was able to be resolved in less than 15 min's.

I am a retired mechanical engineer and I pride myself on being able to resolve issue like these. But I was at my wit's end on this one.

P.S. PRO-E would have provide a very nice 3-D model for you to show off.

[Waterops1]

Originally Posted by bclemens

While it may not look like it...I used to be pretty decent in AutoCAD. Seems like a lifetime ago, but I was "head of engineering" (whatever that meant, since I carried no engineering degree) for a modular commercial builder. Designed structural, mechanical, electrical, plumbing, etc.

We built some pretty cool stuff...modular office space for an aircraft carrier retrofit (24x60' double wide that could be moved on casters). Temporary Men's/Women's restrooms for the Museum of art in Chicago for use while they remodeled theirs (art deco tile). Lab space for Batelle in Ohio to house laboratory mice. Needed to be mouse escape proof. (fun times).

Problem is, the last time I used it was AutoCAD 2000. So they don't let me touch Inventor and the other programs they use today

I'll bet you would have a blast and do some goid stuff on Solid Works!

[OldCoot]

These will help with re-stringing them.

[Jakieboy]

We recently had a failure of the clips holding our dual shade/blinds in our Cardinal 3250 Fifth Wheel. The plastic clips hidden behind the valances simply broke, leaving the blind assembly on the floor behind our recliner chairs once we reached our destination. Anyone know where I can purchase replacement clips?? I am hesitant to go back to our dealer, because the parts/service departments there are totally clueless!!

[Kenny kustom]

My blind fell/was pulled down.
1/4” screws are not enough.
I drilled right through the top, and put a nut/bolt.
Much more gooder.