Windows shake like they're gonna fly off

[jdebevec]

I've searched the forum to see if anyone has this same problem, but came up with nothing.
The frameless windows in our 2018 I-5 DB seriously shake, or vibrate in and out when you get up to highway speed. With the window fully closed, the glass flexes in and out in the center at a high rate of speed from the buffeting of wind. So when you are going down the road, the glass itself makes noise, there's a lot of wind noise, and you can even see through the gaps. It gets so bad it seems like they're going to just rip off the side and land in Kansas.

I've checked the adjustment of all the windows, and the glass makes firm contact with the rubber seals all the way around when stopped. The crank stays closed tightly, no issues there. Even cranking it shut as tight as you can (up to the point of breaking the crank) the glass still flexes.

I've finally resorted to taping the windows shut to the rubber seal with industrial strength tape. No more shaking and noise... but of course I can't use the windows.

All of the windows are doing this, on both sides of the coach. I haven't taken it to a dealer yet, I like to troubleshoot on my own first and go to a dealer as a last resort. I've seen several posts about double pane windows, but short of replacing all of my windows does anyone have any ideas?

[bclemens]

Contact customer service rep and get it to a dealer.

Dynamax - Manufacturer of Luxury Class C & Super C Motorhomes

I had this on a Solera back when I was at Sunseeker and we used Hehr windows. When a single glass pane gets too big (ours are actually smaller than what I had the issue with at Sunseeker), the glass can actually flex. Especially if there is positive pressure in the motorhome. I suspect that if the AC is on you can be creating that positive effect...we don't have the vents in the back of the cab. It doesn't always happen BUT, once it starts, I personally think it weakens the pane and now its just plain flexible.

Hehr's solution was to send a thicker pane of glass and trim. Drill out (3) rivets, place the new glass, re-rivet. done Solved 100% of the issues.

Flash forward to today...LCI has no desire (they also own Hehr now) to make that change and claims it is not their issue.

We have redesigned many of those windows to have a smaller vent section (9" vent). That seems to have corrected the issue.

The other thing you can do, if looking at local fix or temp fix, is adding more rubber seal under the pane. Or a larger trim/seal in front of the pane. That prevents the wind from getting underneath the glass to add to the positive pressure in the motorhome. Once the buffeting wind starts it, you are increasing the air pressure inside, which then just push the window out more.

Sort of like when you open a rear window in a car, but not the front.

[ES_FR]

jdebevec,

Thank you for being a part of the Dynamax family.

Please accept our sincerest apologies for any inconveniences that you have experienced with your new Isata 5. Your satisfaction is very important to us; accordingly, we invite you to contact Dan Dobecki in our Customer service department through the following personalized and direct link: Dynamax RV Direct Service Contact - Forest River, Inc..

This direct link is provided for your convenience in order that we may resolve your concerns as quickly as possible. We will strive to respond to you within 24 hours of receiving your correspondence.

Respectfully,
Forest River

[bclemens]

lol....looks like I'm even faster than our Bots

[caseymyers]

You never sleep, those BOTS are down for maintenance at night.

[FOURWHL]

I always knew he was part robot....

[woo10-210]

Awning windows use a torque operator to open the vent. The operator has arms that should extend the full width of the vent glass. Sometimes shorter arms are used to limit the opening distance, or maybe the wrong arms were applied, and this prevents the outer edges of the glass from being able to be properly tightened against the seal and frame. Most RV glass is 1/8" tempered and, as Brian mentioned, it is very flexible.

Without seeing the window I'm just guessing this may be the cause but check the arms to see if they're going the full width of the vent panel. If not, the operator can be swapped for one with longer arms. Another option is to bond a stiffener rail to the glass just above the awning arm slide channel to limit the glass flex.

[bratbros]

Interesting....I had a bathroom window mysteriously shatter and disappear on one of the first camping trips I took with my I5 30FW about a year ago. I turned it in on my insurance since the shattered glass scratched one of the cargo compartment doors and the new window was over $500+labor to replace. Could this have been what happened? I haven't had a problem since.

[bclemens]

We haven't had that issue with a bathroom window as it is much smaller.

[dannko]

Do you have a 35DB?

If so, is it the emergency escape window by the dinette?

If so, yes that window looked like a bass kick drum on the road and caused a pulsating noise inside. It's because the emergency latch would not clamp it down tight enough for a seal and the glass itself is rather large. On our one and only trip it let air in and we thought it would break the entire time when driving over 55. I put tape on it to seal it, but it still pulsated.

Mine was replaced with a completely different window, fixed glass like above the couch with the crank out awnings below.

[Whalenss]

Originally Posted by jdebevec

I've searched the forum to see if anyone has this same problem, but came up with nothing.
The frameless windows in our 2018 I-5 DB seriously shake, or vibrate in and out when you get up to highway speed. With the window fully closed, the glass flexes in and out in the center at a high rate of speed from the buffeting of wind. So when you are going down the road, the glass itself makes noise, there's a lot of wind noise, and you can even see through the gaps. It gets so bad it seems like they're going to just rip off the side and land in Kansas.

I've checked the adjustment of all the windows, and the glass makes firm contact with the rubber seals all the way around when stopped. The crank stays closed tightly, no issues there. Even cranking it shut as tight as you can (up to the point of breaking the crank) the glass still flexes.

I've finally resorted to taping the windows shut to the rubber seal with industrial strength tape. No more shaking and noise... but of course I can't use the windows.

All of the windows are doing this, on both sides of the coach. I haven't taken it to a dealer yet, I like to troubleshoot on my own first and go to a dealer as a last resort. I've seen several posts about double pane windows, but short of replacing all of my windows does anyone have any ideas?

What Brian C says. The window in the over the can bunk area would flex in the middle when there was a strong cross wind creating a loud wind noise. Dealer service installed a thicker rubber seal that fixed the problem. I have a earlier production 2017 I5 DS.

[jdebevec]

I did try sticking a strip of automotive trim (colored blue to match of course) just in front of the leading edge of one of the windows. It didn't help.

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Contact customer service rep and get it to a dealer.

Dynamax - Manufacturer of Luxury Class C & Super C Motorhomes

I had this on a Solera back when I was at Sunseeker and we used Hehr windows. When a single glass pane gets too big (ours are actually smaller than what I had the issue with at Sunseeker), the glass can actually flex. Especially if there is positive pressure in the motorhome. I suspect that if the AC is on you can be creating that positive effect...we don't have the vents in the back of the cab. It doesn't always happen BUT, once it starts, I personally think it weakens the pane and now its just plain flexible.

Hehr's solution was to send a thicker pane of glass and trim. Drill out (3) rivets, place the new glass, re-rivet. done Solved 100% of the issues.

Flash forward to today...LCI has no desire (they also own Hehr now) to make that change and claims it is not their issue.

We have redesigned many of those windows to have a smaller vent section (9" vent). That seems to have corrected the issue.

The other thing you can do, if looking at local fix or temp fix, is adding more rubber seal under the pane. Or a larger trim/seal in front of the pane. That prevents the wind from getting underneath the glass to add to the positive pressure in the motorhome. Once the buffeting wind starts it, you are increasing the air pressure inside, which then just push the window out more.

Sort of like when you open a rear window in a car, but not the front.

We have this same issue in our I5 35DB and have since day one. It's really only "bad" if there is a cross wind. The larger dinette windows and windows behind the couch are the major problem children....of course, they are the largest windows, so it stands to reason.

It doesn't seem to matter if the AC is on creating positive pressure or if I run both vent fans at full-tilt with no AC in the hopes to create some amount of negative pressure. If there is a cross-wind, we are going to watch those windows chatter like crazy!

If LCI says that it's not their fault or their product, then what do they think the root cause is? Does a thicker pane of glass, in the necessary sizes, exist in the LCI catalog?

Are you suggesting to add MORE seal under the glass or are you suggesting to remove the existing seal and replace with a thicker one? Can you suggest a product/part number?

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by dannko

Do you have a 35DB?

If so, is it the emergency escape window by the dinette?

If so, yes that window looked like a bass kick drum on the road and caused a pulsating noise inside. It's because the emergency latch would not clamp it down tight enough for a seal and the glass itself is rather large. On our one and only trip it let air in and we thought it would break the entire time when driving over 55. I put tape on it to seal it, but it still pulsated.

Mine was replaced with a completely different window, fixed glass like above the couch with the crank out awnings below.

The emergency window in the dinette of a 35DB is the worst of the worst when it comes to this problem! I've cut out a small piece of balsa wood and glued it in place where the lever hit the frame. This gives the lever a tad more well, leverage to close the window a tad tighter. Still doesn't solve the problem though.

Did the dealer replace that window for you under warranty?

[dannko]

yes, Dynamax took out the escape window and replaced with picture window with two small awnings underneath, absolutely no problems with this setup and we prefer the awnings. You can open those in rain. Now I have to fix the front AC since it's warmer than the rear, I see daylight in the return air, so some aluminum tape and seal it up.

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by dannko

yes, Dynamax took out the escape window and replaced with picture window with two small awnings underneath, absolutely no problems with this setup and we prefer the awnings. You can open those in rain. Now I have to fix the front AC since it's warmer than the rear, I see daylight in the return air, so some aluminum tape and seal it up.

Interesting.....two small awnings _underneath_ the windows? Any pictures?

[bclemens]

It’s not an awning. We just shorten the section that opens. Just reach out to service, let them know your issue and they can get you the proper window. Or if you are bringing it out, just add that to the list. Make sure they get a current copy however. We have lots a people arrive, after we scheduled in their service time from their original list, and are upset that we can’t get to the items they never told us about.

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by bclemens

It’s not an awning. We just shorten the section that opens.

Ah, gotcha. So, they become a split window along a horizontal dividing line somewhere? In other words there is an upper glass portion that is fixed and a lower glass portion that opens?

Originally Posted by bclemens

Just reach out to service, let them know your issue and they can get you the proper window. Or if you are bringing it out, just add that to the list. Make sure they get a current copy however. We have lots a people arrive, after we scheduled in their service time from their original list, and are upset that we can’t get to the items they never told us about.

You guys need to work on your mind reading skills.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by BLT4SPD

Ah, gotcha. So, they become a split window along a horizontal dividing line somewhere? In other words there is an upper glass portion that is fixed and a lower glass portion that opens?



You guys need to work on your mind reading skills.

Tell me about it.

And yes. Split window.

[BLT4SPD]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Tell me about it.

And yes. Split window.

So, still a LCI 3000 series window I assume? Does it become a 300SVD with a single large pane above and two vent windows below?

I guess pictures of DANNKO's install would answer my questions.