Winterizing for temperate climates

[milkman55]

This is my first RV and first winter approaching. I live in a warm climate (San Antonio) that rarely sees freezing temperatures, but it does freeze occasionally. Typical freeze would be just in the night time and my hit 25f in the extreme, but usually 28-32f.

My RV is stored indoors year round and I have 15 amp service in my secure bay. Since the buildings enclosed, I wouldn't think you can run the gas furnace? It's an extremely large building about 400 ft x 60 ft, approx 20 ft ceiling. I have a 14x44 ft bay with the Isata 3 and a Miata. I will check with the building owner about the furnace, but can anticipate a NO answer.

I was thinking about a small space heater turned way down to only come on when it's 40f or below (we wear shorts year round . Would I also need something in the bays (we never have anything in the tanks when stored). I can certainly open the low point drain and drain the Truma water heater. What am I forgetting?

I would like to use the RV on warm periods even in the winter. Most of our state parks are open year round. I am retired so can go places during the week and hate to give up the winter months.

Anybody do something similar in a warmer climate?

[ependydad]

Personally, I would just blow out the lines with an air compressor. 10 minutes tops and you can do it before you leave a campground to take it back to storage.

[llr]

If it is inside and only below freezing overnight it won't freeze, the building needs to drop below freezing before the camper will and I can't believe the building could cool that fast

[rsdata]

Typical freeze would be just in the night time and my hit 25f in the extreme, but usually 28-32f.

I would doubt that even those temps, unless they held steady for 24-48 hours would be enough to freeze up inside or even below the camper ( and then not even freeze up HARD). But buy yourself a cheap compressor, store it in the garage and blow out the water lines.

[milkman55]

With the Truma constant hot water, will the compressor blowout cover the Truma as well without separate draining?

[NMWildcat]

We are in southern NM. We also have an on demand water heater. I just blow out all the lines (no antifreeze mess), and yes that also covers the water heater. Never had a problem in over 40 years.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by milkman55

With the Truma constant hot water, will the compressor blowout cover the Truma as well without separate draining?

The Truma is not like other on demand water heaters. It is more of a hybrid because it has a mixing chamber....but just open the drain and you're good. Its the big yellow lever.

From their website.

"Simply open "Easy Drain Lever" – winterization done"

From their owners manual....
Winterizing the appliance
To winterize the appliance, drain all water from the appliance (“Draining the water and cleaning the water inlet filter” on page 15).
Once the water has been drained, the appliance is protected against freezing conditions.

[steve32409]

and that would be a " no " on any type of combustion by gas or propane inside any building for heat or power .

[milkman55]

For those that live where it rarely freezes, do you leave your low point drain valves and the faucet valves open all winter after draining? I have drained everything and drained the Truma WH and poured pink stuff in all the drain P traps.

I am also storing indoors in an unheated warehouse type setup made specifically for RVs. I do have 15 amp 110 service and have thought about an electric heater on low.

We are supposed to get down to a low of 30f for the next 60 hours, but not below freezing continuously.

[NMWildcat]

I just blow out all my lines with compressed air and then put antifreeze in the drains. And yes, I leave the low point valves open, but don't bother with the faucets.

[RV Randy]

Even if you live where it never freezes, if the RV is going to sit for an extended time I would drain all water sources. Otherwise you get algae growing in there unless the water is heavily chlorinated. Once you do get algae growth, you have to dose & flush the water system numerous times with Clorox to get rid of the smell and the after taste.

[Delco Bobby]

Originally Posted by milkman55

For those that live where it rarely freezes, do you leave your low point drain valves and the faucet valves open all winter after draining? I have drained everything and drained the Truma WH and poured pink stuff in all the drain P traps.

I am also storing indoors in an unheated warehouse type setup made specifically for RVs. I do have 15 amp 110 service and have thought about an electric heater on low.

We are supposed to get down to a low of 30f for the next 60 hours, but not below freezing continuously.

On my first motorhome the dealer service dept. left the low point drains open after winterizing. That bothered me but they said to leave them open.

Since then I do the winterizing and leave the drains open for 2 or three weeks. I use the motorhome during that period so I feel any residual water is eventually drained. The I close the drain valves.

If anyone sees a problem with my method I would like to hear it.

Bobby