Winterizing with antifreeze and fresh water tank.

fishyknitter · 12-08-2019, 04:10 PM

I have a 2019 Isata 3 24FW. I'm about to winterize and the owner's manual recommends to add enough antifreeze to be above the minimum fill in the fresh water tank (if I use that method). How do I know what that amount is? How many"gallons" of antifreeze?

**Mr. Dan** · 12-08-2019, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishyknitter

I have a 2019 Isata 3 24FW. I'm about to winterize and the owner's manual recommends to add enough antifreeze to be above the minimum fill in the fresh water tank (if I use that method). How do I know what that amount is? How many"gallons" of antifreeze?

Are you positive your owner's manual tells you to put antifreeze IN your fresh water tank? That's highly frowned upon on this forum.

fishyknitter · 12-08-2019, 04:58 PM

Yes I'm sure I read the "fill above minimum" part.

SeaDog · 12-08-2019, 05:13 PM

I would recommend you drain the potable water tank and water heater plus bypass and only run antifreeze thru the water delivery lines allow pink stuff to go down the drains into the gray and black tanks(they should be emptied for winterizing) don't forget the outside shower and sprayer on the toilet if you have one. JMHO

**Flybob** · 12-08-2019, 05:13 PM

I would never add antifreeze to the FW tank. It will require about 3-4 times the amount of doing it correctly as well as being very difficult to clean out. If you have a winterizing system, use it if not I would purchase one and install it. Simple install. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Permane...SIN=B0006JJ588

cavie · 12-08-2019, 05:14 PM

do not put antifreeze in your FW tank. Us a bypass kit. $15.00 2 gal of antifreeze

**bikendan** · 12-08-2019, 06:13 PM

The OP has a Dynamax Motorhome so I'm sure it doesn't need an add-on bypass winterizing kit.

fishyknitter · 12-08-2019, 09:25 PM

I'm so appreciative of the helpful replies! After bypassing and draining my water heater, I followed the recommended method using my air compressor. I have a small (24ft) RV so it didn't take long to blow out the system and add antifreeze to the drains and p-traps. I'm learning! Merry Christmas!

WFD · 12-09-2019, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishyknitter

I'm so appreciative of the helpful replies! After bypassing and draining my water heater, I followed the recommended method using my air compressor. I have a small (24ft) RV so it didn't take long to blow out the system and add antifreeze to the drains and p-traps. I'm learning! Merry Christmas!

Now that you have completed your task, you probably understand why everyone was saying don't add antifreeze to the fresh water tank. Had you done that to fill it above the minimum fill line, it would have taken several gallons to accomplish that, plus you would be flushing that tank forever in order to get rid of it all. Totally unnecessary...keep coming back and keep learning all about your systems! Enjoy!

**Mr. Dan** · 12-09-2019, 09:03 AM

Double check that you completely blew out the toilet valve. It takes about a tablespoon of water to freeze and split it. I have the T-shirt!

5picker · 12-09-2019, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WFD

Now that you have completed your task, you probably understand why everyone was saying don't add antifreeze to the fresh water tank. Had you done that to fill it above the minimum fill line, it would have taken several gallons to accomplish that, plus you would be flushing that tank forever in order to get rid of it all. Totally unnecessary...keep coming back and keep learning all about your systems! Enjoy!

EXCEPT....
Now the OP doesn't have antifreeze in their plumbing lines, only the drains and P-traps.

There are those of us that believe from seeing elbows and valves break and from the many posts here about things breaking when not using antifreeze, that adding antifreeze to the plumbing lines is an important part of winterizing.

I agree... adding the antifreeze to the fresh tank is NOT a good idea.

There are other ways to accomplish this.

The factory has started to add winterization ports to many R/Vs in recent years (to keep from adding antifreeze to the fresh tank) and there are aftermarket kits that plumb into the pump available too. Hand pump kits are out there as well.

Through the MANY discussions here on whether to add antifreeze to the plumbing or just blow out with air, the opinion is somewhat divided and only the person doing the winterizing can make the decision best for them once they have ALL the options.

**bclemens** · 12-09-2019, 09:20 AM

We just got done adding a "take up tube" to all models. The trucks always had it....the 3 series has the "Anderson Valve" for winterizing....but I think what happens is most people "drain the lines first"...then there is not enough suction with all that air in the lines to draw the antifreeze into the Anderson valve.

So...for the Anderson Valve, you should not drain the lines. But put a cut off hose from the Anderson valve to the antifreeze jug. Then run the pump from there. That way you keep the suction pressure. However, that is why I asked to add a take up tube as well...to try and keep things consistent across all models or if you drain first...you can use the take up tube right at the pump. I still get a little concerned about the lines from the inlet to the pump...but low point should take care of those.

Also why I asked to have the water heater bypass the same on both. We have one on both...but the 3 series is not the "H" style you always see. It was simplified with a (2) valve system with one being a 3-way. But almost every image you see out there is the "H" style.

5picker · 12-09-2019, 09:56 AM

Brian, I commend you for your forward thinking.

Knowing the "H" style of bypass is the most common and seeing you wrestle with wanting something standard is encouraging to know the R/V industry is putting some thought into things.

And while I agree the "H" style of bypass is the most common.... ultimately... making sure the CUSTOMER is trained on what THEY have, via the proper literature or Customer Orientation at the dealer level, is paramount.

At this point, I believe Dynamax is head and shoulders above the other divisions in that regard.

**bclemens** · 12-09-2019, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5picker

Brian, I commend you for your forward thinking.

Knowing the "H" style of bypass is the most common and seeing you wrestle with wanting something standard is encouraging to know the R/V industry is putting some thought into things.

And while I agree the "H" style of bypass is the most common.... ultimately... making sure the CUSTOMER is trained on what THEY have, via the proper literature or Customer Orientation at the dealer level, is paramount.

At this point, I believe Dynamax is head and shoulders above the other divisions in that regard.

lol...I'm glad you mention documentation and training as we are in the process of updating 100% of our data to be "brand specific".

I'll need to figure out a way to reward the "major contributors". maybe some Dynamax hats or demo products when we get them. See http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...-a-198894.html

Jacksonjack1 · 12-09-2019, 07:20 PM

I have a 2015 Dynaquest 320xl. I couldnt figure out where the hookup was to draw antifreeze through mine. I ended up blowing it out with air but it would be nice if someone could direct me to the location where I can pump antifreeze.

Minthillbill · 12-09-2019, 07:35 PM

Just be sure you leave ALL faucets open so they drain too. The previous owner did not resulting in a blown faucet

Tundra 2014 · 12-09-2019, 09:54 PM

Open your low water drains and drive it around the block. Getting anti-freeze out of FW tanks takes several fills and emptying. Blow out lines and empty grey tanks. Dump some Anti-free in drains and toilet. Put low water caps back on. Drain water heater.

jdebevec · 12-10-2019, 09:01 AM

The water heater on our I-5 is under the bed, enclosed with paneling. There's no (easy) way to access it without a sawzall... so I don't know if there's a bypass plumbed into it. I could make a panel that I could take on and off, but does anyone know for sure if there's a bypass before I start cutting? I'm thinking that someone ran out of screws and just used a nail gun when the bed was built.
I've been winterizing with an air compressor because Truma says not to run antifreeze through the water heater. But I think that sooner or later I'll miss something or forget to drain a line and then wish I had used antifreeze.

cavie · 12-10-2019, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jacksonjack1

I have a 2015 Dynaquest 320xl. I couldnt figure out where the hookup was to draw antifreeze through mine. I ended up blowing it out with air but it would be nice if someone could direct me to the location where I can pump antifreeze.

The antifreeze connection goes between the pump and the FW tank. T fitting, open close valve and a 2' hose.

cavie · 12-10-2019, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdebevec

The water heater on our I-5 is under the bed, enclosed with paneling. There's no (easy) way to access it without a sawzall... so I don't know if there's a bypass plumbed into it. I could make a panel that I could take on and off, but does anyone know for sure if there's a bypass before I start cutting? I'm thinking that someone ran out of screws and just used a nail gun when the bed was built.
I've been winterizing with an air compressor because Truma says not to run antifreeze through the water heater. But I think that sooner or later I'll miss something or forget to drain a line and then wish I had used antifreeze.

cut a 3" or 4 " hole and see what behind it.

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