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Old 10-11-2012, 03:46 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by SimchaSabre View Post
SabreSam,

Please take a look at this post regarding bike rack issues: (if you haven't already seen it)
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post261138

I am also wondering what the official factory position would be on accepting a trade in of the earlier version towards the purchase of the redesigned one?

Thanks
Dear Customer,
Your question is fair, but we do not take traded in material. The new rack is not interchangable with the old rack. The new rack has a different bracket system to the Ibeam.
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:50 PM   #82
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SabreSam - need to get the TV out for the winter of our 2013 36RLQS - is there an easier way to do so other than unscrew the plate from the back of the TV? Looked behind and there doesn't seem to be a "quick release" option on the swing arm mechanism.

If not, can the TV be left in the unit if we wrap in moving blankets? Left outside in storage facility in Wisconsin winters (wind chill can get about 40 below at times!) and the TV is on the outside wall.

Please advise.
Dear Karl & Jackie,
I do suggest that you remove your TV. And you will need to remove the screws from the back of the TV. Removing it will not only extend the life of the TV, but will also discourage theives when they look through your windows in storage. I hope that helps.
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:52 PM   #83
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Anyone or SabreSam know how to tighten the kitchen fawcett. The vertical stem flops around a little, and was wondering if it needs to be tightened from under the sink ( there is absolutly no room around the supply lines) or can it be tightened from the top?

Dear Sabre Owner,
a picture of the faucet would really help. Between all the brands and model years we have used several. Post or send me a PM picture and I will get you an answer.
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Old 10-11-2012, 04:07 PM   #84
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Attachment 20257

SabreSam:

Wanted to know if there is a TV backer on this wall between dresser and ceiling?
Our unit did not come with a sticker saying otherwise and our Dealer said no when asked this question.

BUT...I'm questioning this due to the location of the cable and power outlets (ceiling) as it seems to be setup to hang a TV on this wall?
I'd expect the outlet and cable plate to be down near the dresser if it's meant to put TV on top of the dresser?
Dear Ragin Cajun,
thanks for waiting for the answer. This post applys to any Sabre model that was built with the washer dryer cabinet in the master bedroom.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...1&d=1349989310
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...1&d=1349989310

These pictures show the TV installed and removed showing the bracket. So you would want to mount your bracket in the same locations. When facing the bracket the left edge of the bracket measures 42 1/2" from the face/front of the wardrobe. The bottom edge of the bracket measures 34" from the top of the dresser.

I hope this helps. DO NOT USE LONG SCREWS OR YOU WILL GO THROUGH THE SIDEWALL.
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Old 10-11-2012, 07:17 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SabreSam

Dear Ragin Cajun,
thanks for waiting for the answer. This post applys to any Sabre model that was built with the washer dryer cabinet in the master bedroom.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...1&d=1349989310
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...1&d=1349989310

These pictures show the TV installed and removed showing the bracket. So you would want to mount your bracket in the same locations. When facing the bracket the left edge of the bracket measures 42 1/2" from the face/front of the wardrobe. The bottom edge of the bracket measures 34" from the top of the dresser.

I hope this helps. DO NOT USE LONG SCREWS OR YOU WILL GO THROUGH THE SIDEWALL.
Thanks!!!!



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Old 10-11-2012, 07:49 PM   #86
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Dear Sabre Owner,
a picture of the faucet would really help. Between all the brands and model years we have used several. Post or send me a PM picture and I will get you an answer.

here is a photo of the tap. The vertical part with the offshoot to the wand is loose, and the whole unit waggles.


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Old 10-11-2012, 08:03 PM   #87
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I have the same Faucet in my Wildcat and the handle came loose I found that just under the little Hot Cold dot is a set screw. if you loosen the set screw and remove the handle I belive there is a ring nut holding the gooseneck down if you remove that then there are two "O" rings which make the gooseneck water tight and snug You might have bad "O" rings causing the looseness.
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:51 AM   #88
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Dear Karl & Jackie,
I do suggest that you remove your TV. And you will need to remove the screws from the back of the TV. Removing it will not only extend the life of the TV, but will also discourage theives when they look through your windows in storage. I hope that helps.
SabreSame, Thanks for the info. Do you know if there is another type of arm assembly that can be purchased that might make this a little easier to release in the future? Anyone have something different that they may have after factory installed?

I would think that after time, the screw holes will not be as supportive when being removed and then put back in.
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:24 AM   #89
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I have the same Faucet in my Wildcat and the handle came loose I found that just under the little Hot Cold dot is a set screw. if you loosen the set screw and remove the handle I belive there is a ring nut holding the gooseneck down if you remove that then there are two "O" rings which make the gooseneck water tight and snug You might have bad "O" rings causing the looseness.

Yes, I had previously loosened the set screw, and lifted the body of the faucet, but the ring nut seems to be very tight, to loosen or to tighten. I didnt want to force it in case i damaged something, so thats why I enquired here before I went any further.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:03 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl & Jackie
SabreSame, Thanks for the info. Do you know if there is another type of arm assembly that can be purchased that might make this a little easier to release in the future? Anyone have something different that they may have after factory installed?

I would think that after time, the screw holes will not be as supportive when being removed and then put back in.
Dear Karl and Jackie
We do not offer anything like that. I'm sorry.
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:33 AM   #91
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Yes, I had previously loosened the set screw, and lifted the body of the faucet, but the ring nut seems to be very tight, to loosen or to tighten. I didnt want to force it in case i damaged something, so thats why I enquired here before I went any further.

Thanks for your help, but I figured it out. Once I discovered that the faucet is a Phoenix, I went to their website and found a drawing. The center piece is held down by a large nut under the flat part of the fixture. The fixture is held down by two nuts on either side. All I needed to do was loosen the two underneath side nuts, lift the complete fixture, and there was the ring nut. Voila...
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Old 10-20-2012, 03:58 PM   #92
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Hi Sam
I am looking at the above mentioned fiver and was wondering if I would have to get a slider hitch for my truck. I have a extended cab GMC 2500Hd d/max 4x4. Thanks for the answer
Shem
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:40 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shem
Hi Sam
I am looking at the above mentioned fiver and was wondering if I would have to get a slider hitch for my truck. I have a extended cab GMC 2500Hd d/max 4x4. Thanks for the answer
Shem
Short bed?


Short bed yes
Long bed no
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Old 10-20-2012, 06:34 PM   #94
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Hi Sam
I am looking at the above mentioned fiver and was wondering if I would have to get a slider hitch for my truck. I have a extended cab GMC 2500Hd d/max 4x4. Thanks for the answer
Shem
My extended cab Silverado 2500 HD D/A has what they call standard bed which is 6" 6" long. I sold my Reese slider because I never used it. Slipped a B&W Patriot hitch in the rails and it is the best decision I have made. I have a 2012 Sabre 31 RETS-6.
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:44 PM   #95
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i too have the 31 rets-6 with a 2500hd with standard bed (6'6"). i have yet to use my slider, but i bought mine for the peace of mind it gave me. you know, that just in case moment. the added price between slider and non slider was less than the price of my insurance deductible. another plus is i dont have to listen to my freinds chuckle either if i were to introduce trailer to back of cab. that would be my biggest plus

they would chuckle for a long long time.
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:58 AM   #96
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Hi,
I am in the process of purchasing a 2013 Sabre 32 RCTS. I noticed it is not equipped with a hitch box cover. I was told by my salesman that some have it and some don't. Is the cover an option or is it standard? It is listed in the Sabre catalog (item 14 page 15) as a feature.
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:51 AM   #97
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FYI: Our 32RCTS did come with it and it was not something that we had to specify when we ordered it. I did have to do a little finagiling to get it back on after I retro fitted Mor/Ryde pin box upgrade.
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:01 PM   #98
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Our 32RCTS-6 also has the came with the hitch box cover. Interesting.
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:26 PM   #99
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Thanks for the info regarding the hitch box cover. I will definately let my dealer know that everyone I have talked to with the same unit has the cover. Also I did a lot of photo searches and did not find one Sabre without a cover.
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:53 PM   #100
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As a matter of fact. the pin box cover of just one of many "small" product differentiators that attracted us toward the Sabre and away from other Brands!
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