#2 Ask the Sabre & Silhouette Factory Rep. Read Post 1 first.

[bigblue08]

Originally Posted by SabreSam

Bigblue08,
Sabres are currently built with a 1621 pin box. Per the Lippert website, part #160468 is the Roto flex to replace the 1621. I'm not sure where you would see that part number or how to check it.

Please do keep in mind the Roto flex does let the fifth wheel have more forward and back motion due to the hindge of the mech. If you are use to a fixed pin, you will see much more movement than you are use to. The rubber material in the roto flex absorbs the vibration of the "bang" front to back as where a solid pin's "bang" is vibrated thought the unit.

I hope this helps.

It does, the pinbox has a manufacturer tag on it, I will check it this weekend and make sure it is correct. I know this part came from Forest River direct as the shipping pallet they had next to my rig at PDI had a return address of Forest River on it. Thanks for you help, I have other questions but will reserve them for once this is resolved.

[jsk]

Originally Posted by SabreSam

Are you asking about a Sabre you currently own or ordering? If you own it, I need a model and vin number. Some of the comments I made are reflective of current production. Older models may not have the extended duct work.

Sent you a PM

[LaydBack]

Sabre Sam, the brochure I have says that heat and AC vents are standard in all bathrooms. I noticed on my unit that the 1/2 bath has neither. My unit would've came off line late December or early January, as my dealer got it January 10th. The last portion of my VIN is ....RU25D3007948, if that helps.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by LaydBack

Sabre Sam, the brochure I have says that heat and AC vents are standard in all bathrooms. I noticed on my unit that the 1/2 bath has neither. My unit would've came off line late December or early January, as my dealer got it January 10th. The last portion of my VIN is ....RU25D3007948, if that helps.

LB- ours is the same way. The whole bath has both (in fact, we mostly cover the heat vent because it gets toasty in there).

[LaydBack]

Originally Posted by ependydad

LB- ours is the same way. The whole bath has both (in fact, we mostly cover the heat vent because it gets toasty in there).

That is probably the closest register to the furnace, looking at where the furnace is. When I get mine, I'll be removing the furnace to add the blower only switch. I'll probably damper it down at the furnace to force air elsewhere from the source. I guess I'll get some 2" flex duct to run heat to the 1/2 bath.

[SabreSam]

Originally Posted by LaydBack

Sabre Sam, the brochure I have says that heat and AC vents are standard in all bathrooms. I noticed on my unit that the 1/2 bath has neither. My unit would've came off line late December or early January, as my dealer got it January 10th. The last portion of my VIN is ....RU25D3007948, if that helps.

Dear Laydback
I am sorry but that comment in the brochure is meant for the full bath only. I will forward your comments to the brochure department to get it corrected.

[bigblue08]

Originally Posted by SabreSam

Bigblue08,
Sabres are currently built with a 1621 pin box. Per the Lippert website, part #160468 is the Roto flex to replace the 1621. I'm not sure where you would see that part number or how to check it.

Please do keep in mind the Roto flex does let the fifth wheel have more forward and back motion due to the hindge of the mech. If you are use to a fixed pin, you will see much more movement than you are use to. The rubber material in the roto flex absorbs the vibration of the "bang" front to back as where a solid pin's "bang" is vibrated thought the unit.

I hope this helps.

Thank you for putting my mind at ease. I checked today and the tag matches the model you posted. I do believe I am going to have to adjust the pinbox as the way they mounted it is causing my fifth wheel plate to pitch forward. That could be the cause of some of the feelings while towing.

[Cyoul8r]

Hi Sam,
I'm getting ready to have a second AC installed in the bedroom of my 2012 Palomino Sabre 32RCTS. I plan on getting the Penguin II 13.5K unit. I pulled the shroud off the roof vent and see that there is already duct work and bracing there. Then I took off the plate on the ceiling where the 120v wires are and everything looks fine. I have a Dometic thermostat already installed on the wall and it is connected with three wires, but I can't find those wires (the other ends) anywhere near where the AC goes. Can you tell me where I should be looking?
Thank you

[SabreSam]

Originally Posted by Cyoul8r

Hi Sam,
I'm getting ready to have a second AC installed in the bedroom of my 2012 Palomino Sabre 32RCTS. I plan on getting the Penguin II 13.5K unit. I pulled the shroud off the roof vent and see that there is already duct work and bracing there. Then I took off the plate on the ceiling where the 120v wires are and everything looks fine. I have a Dometic thermostat already installed on the wall and it is connected with three wires, but I can't find those wires (the other ends) anywhere near where the AC goes. Can you tell me where I should be looking?
Thank you

I will try and get an answer Monday .

[Cyoul8r]

I'll look forward to your reply. Thanks!

[SabreSam]

Originally Posted by Cyoul8r

I'll look forward to your reply. Thanks!

Dear Cyoul8r,
did you also submit this question on the Forest River / Palomino website? My Service Manager said he alreay provided the answer to that customer.

[speedcat]

Sam,

We met at the Louisville show while awaiting the delivery of our factory ordered QBOK. We took delivery this past Saturday. Our PDI was "surface" only and after inspecting at home we found some fit/finish errors and or items that should be of better quality prior to leaving the factory. I am not complaining and will follow up with the dealer to fix under warranty. I just want to bring them to your attention so you can provide feedback to the factory.

1) Dime size hole in the roof fabric at the passenger side roof/front cap corner. Looks like it just was missed when sealing. I covered with duct tape.
2) Central Vac cannister/bag access is behind the basement wall about 2-3". Hidden by plastic cover with one screw and not flush with basement wall as seen in most quality units.

3) Screw(s) securing table leg recepticle in main slide installed "crooked" and grooving into wood surface of the slide floor underbelly. Pic's show screws and underside of slide floor from the outside. I removed the screws. How should the damage to the slide underbelly be repaired?
Attachment 24586

Attachment 24587

We love our QBOK and the overall product. I hope this type of feedback is useful. Thanks for all you do!

[SabreSam]

Dear Speedcat,
As you know, I'm on it. I'm sorry about the problems. We will be speaking to have these issues addressed.

Sabresam

[sundazzler]

Hi Sabre Sam & thanks for being there. We love our 2010 31-RETS Sabre & have had no major problems. Viewed from the exterior one of our slides now looks a little different from the other; the wood floor is now showing below the bead of silicone on the slide ends - see photo attached, not much, but it appears to be sagging ? We are worried about moisture getting in since this stuff puffs up when it gets wet, and rain can drip down to this edge, so after taking this photo we have added more silicone to seal it.

We just met a Canadian with the same problem, actually his looks worse, and he was told to take his 2011 unit back to the factory, but he is from Alberta so is considering a DIY fix screwing in additional sheetmetal screws with washers from the outside, rather than make the long trip.

Our 'drop' isn't causing any problems.....yet......but there does appear to be some friction somewhere causing a few flakes of the floor to come off (probably when bringing the slide in)......see photo. Would appreciate your advice before this gets any worse. Everything is still supported along the back of the slide under the windows behind the armchairs, it is just on the ends that we now see the floor & things seem to be drooping a bit.

We are on the West Coast. Again, it's not a major problem yet, we have no leaks & the slide works OK. We have extended warranty but not sure if they would cover this, if it did get worse that is. Have you seen this problem elsewhere ???

Happy Trails everyone.......

[lightSABRE]

I talked to our technician as he recently installed an A/C in the bedroom. He said to reach around with your hand in the ceiling they may be tucked back a little bit but they will be there.

[SabreSam]

Originally Posted by sundazzler

Hi Sabre Sam & thanks for being there. We love our 2010 31-RETS Sabre & have had no major problems. Viewed from the exterior one of our slides now looks a little different from the other; the wood floor is now showing below the bead of silicone on the slide ends - see photo attached, not much, but it appears to be sagging ? We are worried about moisture getting in since this stuff puffs up when it gets wet, and rain can drip down to this edge, so after taking this photo we have added more silicone to seal it.

We just met a Canadian with the same problem, actually his looks worse, and he was told to take his 2011 unit back to the factory, but he is from Alberta so is considering a DIY fix screwing in additional sheetmetal screws with washers from the outside, rather than make the long trip.

Our 'drop' isn't causing any problems.....yet......but there does appear to be some friction somewhere causing a few flakes of the floor to come off (probably when bringing the slide in)......see photo. Would appreciate your advice before this gets any worse. Everything is still supported along the back of the slide under the windows behind the armchairs, it is just on the ends that we now see the floor & things seem to be drooping a bit.

We are on the West Coast. Again, it's not a major problem yet, we have no leaks & the slide works OK. We have extended warranty but not sure if they would cover this, if it did get worse that is. Have you seen this problem elsewhere ???

Happy Trails everyone.......

Dear customer
I would remove the old caulk and apply a wide bead that would cover the entire edge. Some will paint the wood edge before caulking.

[Jtant]

SabreSam we are such a blessed group to have a caring individual in the corp who really tries to do something himself about customer satisfaction rather than just pay it lip service or write policy for others to carry out. That being stated I would like some help with a couple of issues. We just picked up our 281RLDS and look forward to many great trips in it. First, I mailed in the extra year warranty with a $150 check several weeks ago and the check still has not cleared my bank nor have I heard anything about it. Secondly, in my walk through I was told to just take the two easy chairs place them back to back and wrap the tie down straps around them placing one of them directly in front of the door. I asked about the clip on the floor but the question was kind of dodged. Can I get a diagram of how Forest River recommends the chairs be secured for travel. Thanks for all you do everyday. Sincerely jtant

[sundazzler]

Originally Posted by SabreSam

Dear customer
I would remove the old caulk and apply a wide bead that would cover the entire edge. Some will paint the wood edge before caulking.

OK we will do this, silicone will seal the edges at this point in time. But, if the bottom of the slide continues to scrape off chunks like this, then silicone will not help at all, will it.

We are not fulltimers, about 3 to 4 months a year, and we are wondering why this is happening and will it get much worse. Is the support under the big slide different from the smaller chair slide ??

The Canadian guy was also going to replace the nice heavy sofa with a much lighter one since he suspected weight is a contributing problem on his big slide problem. We are not heavy people, just have two swivel chairs and don't 'plonk' ourselves down. We don't use and don't want to fuss with slide supports, and have read conflicting opinions on them.

We will re-silicone the edges, and will monitor this, but if it sinks or bows further and we continue to lose chunks/flakes of the floor when bringing in the slide, there is definitely something wrong with the construction, and the longer we wait the harder a proper fix will be to implement, no matter who does it. We don't think it will be handled by our extended warranty since their 'weazel-wording' would preclude this.

Thanks for any additional advice you can offer us. If you have seen this before, and it usually doesn't get much worse, we won't worry so much.

[mwebber78]

Originally Posted by sundazzler

Hi Sabre Sam & thanks for being there. We love our 2010 31-RETS Sabre & have had no major problems. Viewed from the exterior one of our slides now looks a little different from the other; the wood floor is now showing below the bead of silicone on the slide ends - see photo attached, not much, but it appears to be sagging ? We are worried about moisture getting in since this stuff puffs up when it gets wet, and rain can drip down to this edge, so after taking this photo we have added more silicone to seal it.

We just met a Canadian with the same problem, actually his looks worse, and he was told to take his 2011 unit back to the factory, but he is from Alberta so is considering a DIY fix screwing in additional sheetmetal screws with washers from the outside, rather than make the long trip.

Our 'drop' isn't causing any problems.....yet......but there does appear to be some friction somewhere causing a few flakes of the floor to come off (probably when bringing the slide in)......see photo. Would appreciate your advice before this gets any worse. Everything is still supported along the back of the slide under the windows behind the armchairs, it is just on the ends that we now see the floor & things seem to be drooping a bit.

We are on the West Coast. Again, it's not a major problem yet, we have no leaks & the slide works OK. We have extended warranty but not sure if they would cover this, if it did get worse that is. Have you seen this problem elsewhere ???

Happy Trails everyone.......

Actually there are a few brands that had this issue - basically it's becuase the floor material wasn't wrapped from the bottom up to the underside of the walls. In some construction, they used a OSB style floor decking but didn't finish the ends, they put a aluminum trim rail, screwed into the wall with some caulking. Not a very good way to seal a floor edge! I'd remove that trim strip and assess the damage. You may be ok, but from the underside I'd use some course screw deck screws and drive them up into the wall footer. I'd paint the entire wood edge on both sides of your slide with an anti-wicking paint. It may take a few good coatings to make it water proof. After that, use a good RV caulking like Proflex and cover the ends and any seams, install the trim again and call it good. I'd be concerned if when you remove the screws you find rusted hardware, that means the water has traveled. Then it's a different conversation and perhaps you should contact the factory about this.

[sundazzler]

Originally Posted by mwebber78

Actually there are a few brands that had this issue - basically it's becuase the floor material wasn't wrapped from the bottom up to the underside of the walls. In some construction, they used a OSB style floor decking but didn't finish the ends, they put a aluminum trim rail, screwed into the wall with some caulking. Not a very good way to seal a floor edge! I'd remove that trim strip and assess the damage. You may be ok, but from the underside I'd use some course screw deck screws and drive them up into the wall footer. I'd paint the entire wood edge on both sides of your slide with an anti-wicking paint. It may take a few good coatings to make it water proof. After that, use a good RV caulking like Proflex and cover the ends and any seams, install the trim again and call it good. I'd be concerned if when you remove the screws you find rusted hardware, that means the water has traveled. Then it's a different conversation and perhaps you should contact the factory about this.

Thanks so much MWebber78 for your good advice.....not sure if we can get the trim strip off w/o removing the slide.....but maybe we can get it off enough to check for rust damage. All good info, thanks, would hope to get some assistance from SabreSam on this too.