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Old 01-04-2017, 05:22 PM   #21
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We have a Cedar Creek 34rlsa which we added a second AC unit. It uses the same duct work that the original system uses or by sliding a vent the cool air will flow directly into the bedroom. Works great either way.
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Old 01-04-2017, 10:53 PM   #22
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We have a second air conditioner in the bedroom. You need 50 amp service and it just drops into the bedroom. The reason we got that is when the main air conditioner quits and someday it will, you still have air in the bedroom and a fan can bring it out to you in the front. We had this happen with our last camper with only one air unit. It had to be on a hot day and took two day to get someone to come out and fix it. I would go for it.
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Old 01-05-2017, 05:08 PM   #23
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My 8310 has 2 in the same ducts an have run both with a 30 a dogleg. I have the thermostats set diferently so they both don't start at the same time.
I also added a hard start kit to each one.
These both are on the same ducts.
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Old 01-05-2017, 06:20 PM   #24
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Do a search for Turbs install/with pics on his Saber!
Like Turbs I installed a 2nd (small) 30A electrical panel powered by a separate 30A power cord. I haven't actually mounted the 2nd A/C in the BR yet but while I was running the wiring I installed additional outlets in the kitchen & outdoor kitchen for electric skillets & another to power my wife's blow dryer. This all makes breakfast time run smoothly...

Most campsites we visit have 50A & 30A but we have also used 30A & 20A with correct adapters in each case. I got the small breaker boxes at either HD or Lowes and made everything pass through a "main" 30A breaker before going to separate 20A breakers.
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Old 01-05-2017, 07:42 PM   #25
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I installed a ducted 2nd AC my self. It works very well and keeps the unit very comfortable in 100+ temps.


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Old 01-28-2017, 11:38 PM   #26
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I installed my a/c on the roof (with the help of a tractor bucket). The duct kit came without bolts, I was able to get them at Lowes. How do I install the external thermostat? The a/c has a pigtail wire with about six connections.
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Old 02-04-2017, 02:45 PM   #27
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You should consider an Atwood Air Command unit. They are much quieter than other units, with a built in thermostat and variable speed fan. We installed one in our Crusader and love it.

What model unit did you use? 13K or 15K. I want to put one in my Crusader
Thanks
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Old 02-04-2017, 07:20 PM   #28
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I installed a Dometic 13,500 unit, I wanted it to match the 15K unit on the rear.


I completed the install a few minutes ago. The controller unit arrived on Thursday but no instructions.


I am not good at documenting installs especially when I have to figure it out but I will say FR provided all of the connections, sort of. The 20 AMP connection is easy but I feel the wiring is too short, I really had to yank it over to install in the control box. I am going to go back in with a piece of romex and extend the circuit back to the ceiling box and make the junction there. There is always a possibility the wire could rub the camper's metal frame and short.


The thermostat is the gotcha. The wiring provided has 4 wires, the thermostat has a 3 wire connection: a ground, power and 3rd wire. When you look at the thermostat wiring to the A/C controller there are 4 wires 12+ DC main power 12- DC to main and thermostat 12+ to thermostat and an unlabeled orange wire. The orange wire connects to the middle thermostat terminal.


The 12+ to thermostat is positive in the thermostat and the ground is to the left terminal. Now here is what got me, where is the 12V power at the A/C? After going crazy I figured out that they left an excess of wire in the ceiling that operates the interior bedroom lights, they are not on a switch so the circuit is always hot.


I cut the wire, attached the 12V+ to the positive connection, I then attached the thermostat ground, 12- and light connection to the negative (4 wires) and secured them with wire nuts. The system came on!


To finish the job I used foil tape to seal duct connections and ceiling openings, I also stuffed some pink insulation in the gaps.
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Old 02-05-2017, 10:36 AM   #29
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Update: I installed a Romex jumper from the A/C control box to the ceiling junction box, makes me feel better that the wire is not under tension and rubbing.
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Old 02-09-2017, 04:59 PM   #30
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You should consider an Atwood Air Command unit. They are much quieter than other units, with a built in thermostat and variable speed fan. We installed one in our Crusader and love it.

What model unit did you use? 13K or 15K. I want to put one in my Crusader
Thanks
We used the 13K model. Love it
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Old 07-26-2017, 12:23 AM   #31
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When we run both of our ac's, I make the main one do just the living room area, the bedroom AC on goes in there. By bedtime we switch the main AC to go through the duct work. Bed AC goes off because of noise level
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Old 07-29-2017, 06:13 PM   #32
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I put a second air unit in my Crusader. If you want the best cooling of LR unit open the celing and install air dump celing kit. My unit can handle 100 without any problem. You lose a lot of cooling efficency with an all ducted system if not insulated and installed correctly. Stay cool!!
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Old 12-11-2017, 03:19 PM   #33
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Hello y'all, Noob here.
I've been researching forever on this subject and although this thread isn't exactly new it's been ohhhh soooo very helpful to me so I'm giving it a bump, I'm so glad I found it and Thank you all.......

I have a 2015 Sabre 33RKTS and need to add a front A/C unit, The main one is in the LR ducted throughout including up to the front BR but worthless that far away. In fact it's pretty worthless from all the ducts but luckily it has the 'Master Blaster' louver on the unit itself to at least keep the LR area bearable, But of course by opening that the front bedroom gets so hot I think I could cook a pizza on the bed .......

The biggest question I had (that my local inexperienced incompetent dealers could not answer) is IF it's ok to connect it to the existing ductwork to combine both units, I still don't know IF the ductwork is ran to the location yet anyway but the output vents are within about 18" from it so perhaps I can figure something out....

I like the idea of connecting them together as it should blow more air throughout the entire ductwork system so maybe not needing to use the noisy 'Master Blaster' so much, But I'd also have the option to 'Blast' either or both when needed.....

Thanks to yous I'm now confident I can tie it in to the existing ductwork IF reasonably possible with positive results.
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Old 12-11-2017, 04:39 PM   #34
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There is an easy way to tell, on the inside of the camper remove the plastic cover under the roof vent, that will give you access to see if there are ducts in the ceiling that are capped off ready to be hooked up.


Yes, you can connect them to the ducts. You will need to wire a thermostat to it placed in the bedroom. There is a panel and controller assembly made for this application. I like the system ducted together, when watching TV I we can run the bedroom unit and at night we run the living area. When we arrive at a site and the camper is hot both units work if you have a 50 AMP hookup. You do have a 50 AMP don't you. Also, is your camper 2nd A/C prepped with a circuit breaker and 12V cables waiting to be hooked up? If not the task just got a lot harder.
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Old 12-11-2017, 06:04 PM   #35
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Yep that's my next step to see IF the ducts extend to the vent hole by removing the trim, Sadly it's at the dealer now for warranty work. But after their ignorance on the matter and prices I won't be having them do it now anyway, So I'll have to wait til I get it back...

Oh yeah I forgot to mention that it does already have a second factory installed thermostat in the bedroom (it does nothing right now), And of course the 120v cover plate near the vent claiming it's pre-wired for the A/C. But I haven't really paid attention as to whether it has a second A/C breaker, Yikes!!

Yes it is 50amp service, I would assume it's got 12v to the vent hole just in case someone would want to put a fantastic vent up there. Do I need 12v up there for an A/C? And I don't know what this panel and controller you speak of is?
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Old 12-11-2017, 06:11 PM   #36
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Welcome from Washington State via AZ.
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Old 12-11-2017, 07:14 PM   #37
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Yep that's my next step to see IF the ducts extend to the vent hole by removing the trim, Sadly it's at the dealer now for warranty work. But after their ignorance on the matter and prices I won't be having them do it now anyway, So I'll have to wait til I get it back...

Oh yeah I forgot to mention that it does already have a second factory installed thermostat in the bedroom (it does nothing right now), And of course the 120v cover plate near the vent claiming it's pre-wired for the A/C. But I haven't really paid attention as to whether it has a second A/C breaker, Yikes!!

Yes it is 50amp service, I would assume it's got 12v to the vent hole just in case someone would want to put a fantastic vent up there. Do I need 12v up there for an A/C? And I don't know what this panel and controller you speak of is?
Awesome on the 50 AMP. You need the 12V to power the thermostat, I pulled mine from the light circuit, the factory left extra wire there for that reason.

As for the breaker, since you are prepped for a 2nd A/C I am 99% sure the breaker is there. The ceiling box is the junction box with the 110 AC wire.
You need to make sure the thermostat is compatible with the A/C controller when the time comes.
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Old 12-12-2017, 11:35 AM   #38
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Welcome from Washington State via AZ.
Thank you, Sounds like you're doing the snowbird thing. What part of AZ are you in? I spent 2 months down there last year and have plans to do it again come January, Although I kept on the move quite a bit last year but I'll start again in Quartzsite and go from there. Gotta go to the Parker 425 Baja again too, Vroom Vroom
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Old 12-12-2017, 12:25 PM   #39
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Awesome on the 50 AMP. You need the 12V to power the thermostat, I pulled mine from the light circuit, the factory left extra wire there for that reason.

As for the breaker, since you are prepped for a 2nd A/C I am 99% sure the breaker is there. The ceiling box is the junction box with the 110 AC wire.
You need to make sure the thermostat is compatible with the A/C controller when the time comes.
Ok great.... It'll be interesting when I pull the vent trim to see what the ducting looks like and IF there's a 12v hot wire handy along with the thermostat wires, Hopefully the factory did their job on all that. I do feel pretty confident about a second A/C circuit and breaker too, The more I think about it the more it seems like I did see one labeled '2nd A/C' in the breaker box. But my memory is getting old so still not 100% sure on that LOL ....

About the thermostat being compatible, That was another hurdle and I've spent hours reading/researching on what's what. I found out it's not like the olden days as to where a mechanical thermostat works with anything (except for the household full voltage heaters of course) but here's what I've found, Both of my factory installed thermostats are the Dometic 3313192 as pictured. And the compatibility list is quite lengthy but I have matched it with a few possibilities, I'm kinda zeroing in on the Briskair line.....

But I AM still a little foggy on the control boards for these thermostats or something like that??? Or maybe that is part of the A/C unit?? And then I was going to complicate everything by going with a unit with the heat strip, but kinda backing away from that idea now since this thermostat doesn't have that option. But it does have the furnace option that I won't be using, Wondering if I can wire a heat strip up from that???......

The newly hired pimple faced kid (been there for 3 weeks) at the CW dealership parts counter said I'd need a new controller board ($260) for both existing thermostats???? He also said it's an 8 hour job at $100 an hour to install, So the grand total would be around $2200 LOLOL....That ain't happening with me
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Old 12-12-2017, 12:46 PM   #40
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Thank you, Sounds like you're doing the snowbird thing. What part of AZ are you in? I spent 2 months down there last year and have plans to do it again come January, Although I kept on the move quite a bit last year but I'll start again in Quartzsite and go from there. Gotta go to the Parker 425 Baja again too, Vroom Vroom
We are doing a modified Snowbird. We got our first 5er in August and got the opportunity to house sit in Fort Mohave so DW decided that since I want to head back north in mid March and she wanted to have our VW Beetle to run around in this time we would leave the RV sitting on it’s summer pad.

We just got back from Brenda where the DW’s cousin has a park model that they winter in.

Are you coming in for the tent show? Being 73 & 75, not sure we want to do that much walking. Still it is the biggest... LOL
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