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Old 05-01-2016, 09:11 AM   #11
Join Date: Nov 2013
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Well there you go. Normally at home we plugged our old trailer into a generator. Many times we plugged it into the outdoor receptacle on the house but never had problems with the gfci.

This time I hadn't pulled the generator and gotten fuel yet so I just used the same receptacle. Since we were only using lights and occasionally moving a slide in of out I wasn't too worried about pulling any real amp load.

So now I'll just always run it off the generator at home to eliminate the gfci issue.

Since it's the maiden I don't have a surge/electrical protector yet. My old surge protect was a 30 amp unit. I'm sure that everyone has everything installed and ready on their maiden but I'm just a slacker in that respect crunchman.

Scott is right, the reason I was a bit confused is because nothing is popping here at the campground. The breakers don't trip at the pedestal, and nothing is amiss on my panel. With nothing changing except adding a 50/30 converter plug I'm not sure where the problem is.

Hammer I would love to check with my meter but I brought along a just about every other tool but somehow failed to bring along my meter! I guess I'll just go back to chasing down all my water leaks and save the electrical for another day.

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Old 05-01-2016, 09:28 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by wentcamping View Post
Well there you go...
My bet is that the 50 amp receptacle has a weak or bad neutral connection. That is the only way you could lose power without popping anything. The same neutral is used for both sides of the 50 amp.

Obviously the 30 amp receptacle doesn't have a bad neutral connection. Your adapter is using your 50 amp plug anyway, so the problem can't be on your side!


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Old 05-01-2016, 09:33 AM   #13
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Are you positive the unit doesn't have a factory installed surge or power protector?

I have nothing else to offer, but my trailer is plugged into a 15A GFI outlet and has been for the last week here at the house. We've used both the 12V and 120V systems with no issues, and we use this outlet every time before we leave to start the fridge on electric.
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Old 05-01-2016, 11:56 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by RSchleder View Post
The thing your missing is at HOME, you said you plugged into a GFE protected home circuit. You CANNOT put your trailer into a GFE protected outlet as the trailer already has a GFE protected outlets in it. Can't plug into a GFE home outlet and expect your GRE protected trailer to work correctly. IE- GFE into GFE doesn't work!!!!!

In the absence of anything wrong, "series" GFE's work just fine.

We plug our TT into a GFE outlet on the exterior of our house....momma then uses a vacuum plugged into the GFE in the TT.

No problemo.
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Old 05-01-2016, 12:16 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Toddupton View Post
I don't think he meant he was plugged in to a gfci at home. I believe he meant the gfci in the coach was tripping. Need a meter to start testing some points.
OP specifically stated the gfci protecting the outdoor outlet.
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Old 05-01-2016, 03:51 PM   #16
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I have found sometimes the compground breakers are weak. Also the 30 amp is a different breaker. good luck
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Old 05-01-2016, 04:57 PM   #17
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My money is on the campground 50 amp at the pedestal. With the high number of uses and a lot of older campgrounds out there it's common.
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Old 05-01-2016, 07:00 PM   #18
Join Date: Apr 2016
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50A dropping after 3-5 seconds and GFCI

This is an interesting one so I am going to jump in and give you my thoughts on this.
I like this forum because it lets me help people and I learn even more than I help.
I am not an expert on trailers, but I have one now and I am learning.
I only have a Stealth SS-2216 Limited 27í toy hauler pulled with my 2008 Sequoia that I put my Goldwing and my wifeís scooter into.
We plan to see as much of the USA as possible.
We are doing a ~10,000 mile trip from San Diego to Alaska in June and July this year.
I am an electrical engineer and I have designed and built many electrical systems in high tech world in the past 40 years and I have done a few houses too, but I am learning about trailer electrical.

I interpret this posting as the house outside GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt) tripping and I do not think it is related to the 50A service dropping within 3-5 seconds at the camp site. And yes they have a limited qty of trips before they die.
GFCI trips when there is any current flowing through the ground connection causing a differential between Ground and Neutral. It detects even 4-5 mA (1/1000th of an amp) of imbalance in the current flow between L1 and Neutral(Common) that travels through the Ground connection. So you can have GFCI to GFCI path that will work if you have solid ground connections to both. But it is even more sensitive to trip with 2 GFCIís as there is more opportunity for ground path differences.

I think this is not related to the 50A dropping after 3-5 seconds. The campsite power pedestal is usually fed by one main 4-wire 50A service and has a subpanel with a 30A and a 50A outlet with 30A and 50A circuit breakers that tap from the same source. If this is the case then if the 30A service is working from the main 50A service, then that main has to be on and OK. It is most likely a defective 50A CB or connection within the 50A tap off of the main. The 50A CB not tripping does not mean that the CB is good.

I hope this helps.
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Old 05-01-2016, 07:12 PM   #19
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Circuit breakers are not really designed to be switches, but in a campground they can be turned on and off several times a week and not always gently. In addition they are subject to moisture and insects. I would suspect the pedestal if the 30A service is working well. This is a good reason to have a good surge protector/ circuit protection device. It is also the reason why you can have problems at a campsite that worked fine when you were in the same site 5 weeks ago.

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Old 05-02-2016, 08:30 AM   #20
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There's no reason to ever forget to bring a multimeter with you in your rig. Watch in magazines and newspaper ads for a Harbor Freight coupon where they're giving away a multimeter with any purchase and buy a $0.49 snap-off blade knife, usually kept at the register. If you can't wait for the freebee coupon, the meters range in price from $2.99 to $4.99 depending on the current sale price.

As an aside, I just burned out three of them (out of a much larger stock I have) by running over 13A through the meter while it was set on the 200ma scale. This was not intentional and was caused by an intermittent short in the DC power distribution box I was working on. The box was drawing around 35ma then suddenly would start drawing over 13A then would mysteriously return to 35ma. It took a while but I did finally track down the problem. I had placed the box, without its mounting brackets on top of my (closed) computer and the bus bar attachment bolts on the back of the case were being shorted by the, unknown to me, conductive black paint on the back of the screen. When installed, those attachment bolts will be protected by the wall and will be inaccessible so I never thought of insulating them.


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