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Old 12-01-2015, 03:29 PM   #51
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Re-read post #45. That is why the controller is used. Either a control board or the Curt controller is used to mate the two.
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Old 01-01-2016, 10:37 AM   #52
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What do you think about these two ideas --

1) Put the CURT module in a large ziplock bag while it is wired to the RV, then just fill the bag with spray foam. It should be completely sealed when it dries.
2) Lowes/Home Depot sell a 3" wide sticky-backed rubber tape used to seal windows/doors to new construction. When the tape touches itself it is completely stuck. You could 'wrap' the CURT with it and press it down around the outside/wires and it should effectively be waterproofed.
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Old 01-05-2016, 11:21 PM   #53
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What do you think about these two ideas --

1) Put the CURT module in a large ziplock bag while it is wired to the RV, then just fill the bag with spray foam. It should be completely sealed when it dries.
2) Lowes/Home Depot sell a 3" wide sticky-backed rubber tape used to seal windows/doors to new construction. When the tape touches itself it is completely stuck. You could 'wrap' the CURT with it and press it down around the outside/wires and it should effectively be waterproofed.
That's a creative approach that I suspect would work well. I've read elsewhere that the controller should not be fully enclosed to allow some air flow, nevertheless I wrapped mine up in a Ziploc prior to re-installing. I'm carrying a spare as well, so I figure I can test this "fully sealed" approach out with little risk of not having tail lights on a trip. Cheers!
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Old 01-06-2016, 07:25 AM   #54
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Here is a question for you Dukeboone

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That's a creative approach that I suspect would work well. I've read elsewhere that the controller should not be fully enclosed to allow some air flow, nevertheless I wrapped mine up in a Ziploc prior to re-installing. I'm carrying a spare as well, so I figure I can test this "fully sealed" approach out with little risk of not having tail lights on a trip. Cheers!
I have not looked at mine yet, although I know it is in front of the back bumper. How much work is it to swap the CURT controller with another ? I'm guessing you have to re-do those two big gray connectors - which would take quite some time ?

I will be buying a spare from Amazon RSN, but may also have to buy the grey connectors depending on what you have to say !

Thanks !
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Old 01-06-2016, 02:28 PM   #55
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I don't have enough of an understanding of what the controller does do know whether a different make or model of controller would be a worthy substitute. When I approached the repair on mine, I wanted to replace with the exact same module so I could verify my theory that it was indeed the source of the problem. Furthermore, I purchased the same connectors so I effectively wasn't modifying the RV since it's under warranty and at the time wasn't 100% certain swapping the controller would solve the problem. Worst case scenario I could have undone my repair and restored everything exactly the way it was and take it in for warranty service. The connectors themselves seem adequate for an exterior application and while the module is supposed to be installed in a protected location I suspect the missing gasket on one of my connectors might have created the problem to begin with. My 400 mile drive home from taking delivery at the dealer was complete with mountain driving and a deluge of rain, so all that moisture could have easily infiltrated the connector lacking the requisite gasket. HTH
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Old 01-06-2016, 03:15 PM   #56
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Sorry - I was not clear when I said "another"

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I don't have enough of an understanding of what the controller does do know whether a different make or model of controller would be a worthy substitute. When I approached the repair on mine, I wanted to replace with the exact same module so I could verify my theory that it was indeed the source of the problem. Furthermore, I purchased the same connectors so I effectively wasn't modifying the RV since it's under warranty and at the time wasn't 100% certain swapping the controller would solve the problem. Worst case scenario I could have undone my repair and restored everything exactly the way it was and take it in for warranty service. The connectors themselves seem adequate for an exterior application and while the module is supposed to be installed in a protected location I suspect the missing gasket on one of my connectors might have created the problem to begin with. My 400 mile drive home from taking delivery at the dealer was complete with mountain driving and a deluge of rain, so all that moisture could have easily infiltrated the connector lacking the requisite gasket. HTH
When I said "another" I should have said "a new one" - i.e., exactly the same model. I'm interested in the amount of work it took you to swap the existing CURT with a new CURT. If it has everything to do with the 4-pin and 6-pin connectors, then I suppose you could have a spare already wired ?

Thanks for the help,
Jeff N.
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Old 01-06-2016, 04:02 PM   #57
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When I said "another" I should have said "a new one" - i.e., exactly the same model. I'm interested in the amount of work it took you to swap the existing CURT with a new CURT. If it has everything to do with the 4-pin and 6-pin connectors, then I suppose you could have a spare already wired ?

Thanks for the help,
Jeff N.
Oh, OK. Sorry for the confusion. It was rather easy and I don't consider myself a wiring/electrical wizard. I did have the forethought to read the instructions for the connectors very closely and took my time to make sure I not only attached the connectors correctly but also matched up the wires correctly as it doesn't appear that it can be undone very easily if at all.

I simply cut the wires on the controller to the desired length (leaving some extra for margin of error), stripped the wire ends, placed the aluminum fittings on the wires and then inserted them into the plastic connectors. All in all it was probably a 15 minute job.

Cheers!
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Old 01-06-2016, 04:11 PM   #58
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DId you have to crimp the wires ?

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Oh, OK. Sorry for the confusion. It was rather easy and I don't consider myself a wiring/electrical wizard. I did have the forethought to read the instructions for the connectors very closely and took my time to make sure I not only attached the connectors correctly but also matched up the wires correctly as it doesn't appear that it can be undone very easily if at all.

I simply cut the wires on the controller to the desired length (leaving some extra for margin of error), stripped the wire ends, placed the aluminum fittings on the wires and then inserted them into the plastic connectors. All in all it was probably a 15 minute job.

Cheers!
Those 4-wire and 6-wire plugs look like the wires have to be crimped - if so, did you purchase a crimper that works with them ?

Thanks !
Jeff N.
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Old 01-06-2016, 04:44 PM   #59
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I have a wire multi-plier that has several crimping options but found it easiest to fold the two tabs over the wire with a set of needle nose pliers.
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Old 01-06-2016, 08:45 PM   #60
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Response and Update

When I replaced mine I used splice butts and did one wire at a time, it took about 20 minutes I would estimate. I put mine in a gray pvc box and drilled a couple holes at the bottom so that if moisture ever came into the box it would run out.

I do think the pvc box may have been over kill, the main thing is to stop the direct spray of water from the wheels. A ziploc bag that was suggested would be tough because there are three bundles of wires coming from two different directions. The black rubber sticky sheets you get in the home improvement stores would be good, I would put something in the center section like paper so the stick is just around the perimeter on the aluminum plate it is mounted to.

Update: We just drove 2000 miles to NYC, Washington DC and Philadelphia last week (half of it in rain) and the problem seems to be solved. Brake lights and running lights working as they should.
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