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Old 02-18-2016, 10:59 AM   #61
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It really just didn't have enough power for the 15k BTU A/C with heat pump. The 13 worked ok. The really issue is availability. Take it from someone that is TRYING to offer the option. We ordered the first batch about 4 months ago and I have yet to see the first one. Also adds weight.
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Old 02-18-2016, 11:12 AM   #62
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Well that's a troubling comment considering I just bought one. More info, please.
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Old 02-18-2016, 01:38 PM   #63
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You should be fine. They only sold them with the 13.5k. That one is fine.
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Old 02-18-2016, 02:04 PM   #64
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So for Brian I think I asked this right after I bought my 16R. Is it OK to run he set with a/c while driving? Am getting set for a trip to Texas.

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Old 02-18-2016, 02:19 PM   #65
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I don't see why not...everyone else does
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Old 02-18-2016, 06:38 PM   #66
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So...if the diesel option is going away are the Sunseekers and Foresters getting a larger LP tank like the Isata 3? And if so can it be retrofitted?
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Old 02-18-2016, 07:32 PM   #67
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The diesel generator was a great option for frequent dry camping. We initially passed up Solera due to the lp generators short run time and purchased upon its return in 2014. Our diesel gen starts every time with the hatz diesel engine onan used. The Ac would occasionally trip the generator with compressor start up. I solved that problem by adding the hard start capacitor made by dometic for the ac unit. Our Solera ac did not come with a start capacitor. Other than that ,no power issues at 150 hrs gen use. We dry camp in florida and need to run the ac on generator frequently. It has been a comfort to know I call refill with easy to find diesel. I personally would not purchase the coach without the diesel gen. We do run occasionally while driving for Ac and to power my 14 yr old sons Ps4, it keeps him from getting bored on long drives.
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Old 02-18-2016, 09:13 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by Rich.M View Post
The diesel generator was a great option for frequent dry camping. We initially passed up Solera due to the lp generators short run time and purchased upon its return in 2014. Our diesel gen starts every time with the hatz diesel engine onan used. The Ac would occasionally trip the generator with compressor start up. I solved that problem by adding the hard start capacitor made by dometic for the ac unit. Our Solera ac did not come with a start capacitor. Other than that ,no power issues at 150 hrs gen use. We dry camp in florida and need to run the ac on generator frequently. It has been a comfort to know I call refill with easy to find diesel. I personally would not purchase the coach without the diesel gen. We do run occasionally while driving for Ac and to power my 14 yr old sons Ps4, it keeps him from getting bored on long drives.

That's great info. Any idea how I can tell if I have that capacitor on my 2016 2400r?
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Old 02-18-2016, 09:26 PM   #69
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If FR would switch to the Atwood Air Command A/C, at least in conjunction with the very expensive diesel generator option, I think the lower output of the QD3200 vs the standard 3600 watt LP unit would not be a problem. I'm replacing the noisy and current hungry Dometic unit with an Atwood unit - I know FR has done so on at least one unit under warranty due to this issue.

Dometic has reportedly stopped installing the hard start capacitor on this model. Costs all of $20 at retail, probably half that for FR given the quantities they order. Should at least be a part of the (former) diesel generator option.
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Old 02-18-2016, 09:38 PM   #70
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You will need to get on a ladder and go on the roof. Remove the large screws holding the cowel on the unit. It is just a cover and lifts easily. On one side there is a metal box with one screw , it contains the electrical parts. Open the door on that box. The electrical diagram is on the inside of door. The diagram shows an option for the dometic hard start capacitor. I did not have one. Write down the serial number of your ac unit while you have the cowel off. There are 2 kits , get the one for your unit. The capacitor plugs right in. You may need to research on the dometic site and wTch a youtube video. Takes minutes to install, make sure power is off and you understand how to discharge the run capacitor. I think the part was about $35 for the dometic brand ( maintain waranty) on amazon. Unit never failed to start since install.
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Old 02-19-2016, 07:29 AM   #71
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You will need to get on a ladder and go on the roof. Remove the large screws holding the cowel on the unit. It is just a cover and lifts easily. ...
In fact - every A/C would benefit from the hard-start kit. Many campgrounds we have visited have poor power, and often there isn't enough current to start the RV's A/C when connected to the campground power pedestal.
KatanaPilot mentioned how noisy the Dometic A/C unit is. I AGREE ! I have been in other RV Class C brands and never noticed their units being as noisy as my 2015 24 R. I also think a lower-profile unit would help reduce drag on the RV.

We would all agree that an easier-to-start, lower-profile, quieter A/C unit would be a great improvement.

Question 1: If you had an extra $750, what would that replacement be ?
Question 2: would it work with the wall thermostat ?
Question 3: would a 13,500 btu unit be too small on a really hot day ?
Question 4: how do you determine it would be quieter ?

Did you know there is a huge difference between an 11' 4" RV and an 11' RV when trying to get it into 12' garage door, because the door doesn't really go all the way up ?
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Old 02-19-2016, 11:24 AM   #72
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Here is what I would wish for...

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Originally Posted by nusslejj View Post
In fact - every A/C would benefit from the hard-start kit. Many campgrounds we have visited have poor power, and often there isn't enough current to start the RV's A/C when connected to the campground power pedestal.
KatanaPilot mentioned how noisy the Dometic A/C unit is. I AGREE ! I have been in other RV Class C brands and never noticed their units being as noisy as my 2015 24 R. I also think a lower-profile unit would help reduce drag on the RV.

We would all agree that an easier-to-start, lower-profile, quieter A/C unit would be a great improvement.

Question 1: If you had an extra $750, what would that replacement be ?
Question 2: would it work with the wall thermostat ?
Question 3: would a 13,500 btu unit be too small on a really hot day ?
Question 4: how do you determine it would be quieter ?

Did you know there is a huge difference between an 11' 4" RV and an 11' RV when trying to get it into 12' garage door, because the door doesn't really go all the way up ?
The Atwood is only $150 more at retail as of today. They have a proprietary thermostat that comes with the ceiling assembly, but also includes a remote control. The Atwood 15K unit draws about the same current (maybe a little less) than the Brisk Air II 13.5K unit. Atwood's 13.5K unit can be run on a single (not paralleled) Honda 2000i - so it should be no issue on the QD3200 generator. It's quieter because the independent testing indicates it is.

I would wish for chassis upgrades with the rest of the $$$ and would have paid more - HID lights, fog lights, factory TPMS (probably my first choice), upgraded dash/steering wheel controls. Call it a Forester MBS Platinum edition.

Attached is an extracted pdf file from Atwood for comparison.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Pages from New Products 2014.pdf (2.92 MB, 25 views)
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Old 02-19-2016, 11:47 AM   #73
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We run only Atwoods on the Dynamax product including the Isata 3 Series. I agree that they are quieter and seem to cool more efficiently.
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Old 02-19-2016, 06:42 PM   #74
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We just picked up our new Forester 2401W and I plan to spend the next few weeks setting it up and "camping" in the driveway and will let you know what I think. One question I have already is about the motorized stair. Is there a way to keep it out and not retracted when the door is closed? Right now it is out when I open door and then retracted when I close the door and I'm sure I'm going to fall out someday soon if I come out too fast. Certainly there must be a way to keep it out when we are camping at a site?
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Old 02-19-2016, 07:04 PM   #75
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There is a switch in the bank next to the stair well that will keep the step out. Should be the next (3 rd) to last one toward the inside of the coach.
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Old 02-20-2016, 12:18 PM   #76
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What he said^^^
It will roll up when the engine starts even if the switch is "off"
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