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Old 06-10-2016, 05:46 PM   #111
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Moving the Curt module

While the debate continues on what Forest River is or is not going to do, I want to post a couple pictures of how I moved it inside the trunk. It is very easy, took 45 minutes, cost $8 for a can of expanding foam and some tie straps. My unit is 5 weeks old and I did this the week I picked it up. I drilled a 1" hole, pulled through everything but the sealed relay, then remounted it to the plate. My unit is in service so I can't show it with the foam sealing the hole, or a splash guard I mounted in front of the module. I also mounted a splash guard in front of the relay so it will not get any direct spray. Regardless of the cause of the problems people are having with these units, I feel better having it protected inside. The second photo is upside down for some reason, but as you see in the first photo, the module is mounted to the floor of the trunk.

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Old 06-11-2016, 07:52 AM   #112
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Nice Job Joel !

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While the debate continues
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I might add another benefit to your modification is that should there be a problem it is much easier to work on it in the new location than on your back staring up at the greasy-side of the RV
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Old 06-11-2016, 10:48 AM   #113
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Having worked in industry, I agree we have to get to root cause. Not getting the root cause right will lead to a fix that won't solve the issue. There can be multiple factors at times that can make it devilishly hard to pin down. For example, there could be intermittent Curt controller internal circuit failures. Those would have to go back to Curt for analysis and diagnosis. I know it's hard but we have to give them time. In the meantime, I don't see that anyone is being refused free replacements as soon as needed. That said, I continue to feel this is an important safety issue that should be prioritized by both companies, and I suspect it is. By the way, has anyone heard of any Curt controller failures occurring on models other than Forest River?


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Old 06-11-2016, 11:00 AM   #114
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I hear what some of you are saying .... "about getting to the root of the problem" and I do fully understand that approach. However, in all of my reading about this problem - it appears that 99% of these incidents are related to driving through heavy rain and deep puddles. And ..... all of those individuals who have relocated or somehow protected their CURT units have not had any further problems.

As end-users we are relating the circumstances of our individual incidents - I think that input is invaluable to FR. If the problem is so difficult to ID, why not take our input and make a change that MAY solve the problem (relocate the unit or replace it with another system).

But do something before someone gets hurt!
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Old 06-13-2016, 01:29 PM   #115
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Add me to the list of Curt failures. I went through a bad storm a week ago Sunday and since then the left taillight stays on. I unplug the two connectors to turn it off and so far it's been over a week and the light still goes on when I plug the connectors back together. I ordered the Curt controller and connectors yesterday from Amazon and will install them as soon as possible. I have a trip to the dealer planned for Thursday of this week to put in a new GPS/Stereo system because for some reason the mapping for PA was not included in the package. And I live in PA! It works fine everywhere else.
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:09 AM   #116
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Finally got it back, taking our maiden cruise this weekend.

We finally got our 2017 Sunseeker MBS 2400WS from the repair facility. After reading all the horror stories about the trailer light controller getting wet and causing problems, I decided to take a close look at the situation and find a solution.

First off, The controller itself is a sealed unit and the only possible place for water to enter is at the wiring entrances. A little bit of RTV took care of sealing those possible water entry points.

Where the real problem lies is with the connectors that were installed on the unit and on the motorhome itself, these are not water proof connections. I suppose I could have opted for taking the connector apart giving both parts a good helping of dialectric grease and putting them back together, but I opted for carefully sealing the connections with electrical tape.

The relay, that just hangs there, is also a sealed unit but the connector that plugs into is not, a little RTV around the wiring and electrical tape around the seam where the connectors meet will cure any water entry problems there.

The two ballast resistors are sealed units and had heat shrink over the electrical connections so there shouldn't be a water issue with them. If you look closely at them you will notice that they do have heat sinks attached to them and they will get hot, so if you do enclose the curt controller, I would advise either leaving them outside the enclosure of make sure you leave lots of room around them so a wire doesn't touch them and have the insulation melt causing a short. BTW, although it doesn't appear that way in the picture, there is plenty of clearance between the wiring and the ballast resistors.

As a short term solution, I opted for moving the bracket from the factory location just in front of the bumper to attaching it to the generator mounting bracket and using the generator itself as a spray shield.

On the 2017 2400W there is an interior compartment at the rear of the coach that contains the piping for the exterior shower. The wiring is long enough and there is probably room enough in there for the Curt controller itself. Should the solution I chose not work, I will either mount a small waterproof box for the controller or move it into this area.
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:19 AM   #117
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Not waterproof?

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Originally Posted by ShermanD View Post
We finally got our 2017 Sunseeker MBS 2400WS from the repair facility. After reading all the horror stories about the trailer light controller getting wet and causing problems, I decided to take a close look at the situation and find a solution.

First off, The controller itself is a sealed unit and the only possible place for water to enter is at the wiring entrances. A little bit of RTV took care of sealing those possible water entry points.

Where the real problem lies is with the connectors that were installed on the unit and on the motorhome itself, these are not water proof connections. I suppose I could have opted for taking the connector apart giving both parts a good helping of dialectric grease and putting them back together, but I opted for carefully sealing the connections with electrical tape.

The relay, that just hangs there, is also a sealed unit but the connector that plugs into is not, a little RTV around the wiring and electrical tape around the seam where the connectors meet will cure any water entry problems there.

The two ballast resistors are sealed units and had heat shrink over the electrical connections so there shouldn't be a water issue with them. If you look closely at them you will notice that they do have heat sinks attached to them and they will get hot, so if you do enclose the curt controller, I would advise either leaving them outside the enclosure of make sure you leave lots of room around them so a wire doesn't touch them and have the insulation melt causing a short. BTW, although it doesn't appear that way in the picture, there is plenty of clearance between the wiring and the ballast resistors.

As a short term solution, I opted for moving the bracket from the factory location just in front of the bumper to attaching it to the generator mounting bracket and using the generator itself as a spray shield.

On the 2017 2400W there is an interior compartment at the rear of the coach that contains the piping for the exterior shower. The wiring is long enough and there is probably room enough in there for the Curt controller itself. Should the solution I chose not work, I will either mount a small waterproof box for the controller or move it into this area.
That is an interesting observation. According to the Deutsch catalog - Deutsch DT Series of environmentally sealed connectors

They are supposed to be sealed, so if they are not - maybe the sealing gaskets were removed or fell out?
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Old 06-14-2016, 02:39 PM   #118
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My own theory on my personal Curt controller failure is that moisture got in through the connector that was missing the red gasket. When I replaced the unit I made sure the gaskets were in place and also used some electrical grease. So far so good.
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Old 06-19-2016, 09:04 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShermanD View Post
We finally got our 2017 Sunseeker MBS 2400WS from the repair facility. After reading all the horror stories about the trailer light controller getting wet and causing problems, I decided to take a close look at the situation and find a solution.

First off, The controller itself is a sealed unit and the only possible place for water to enter is at the wiring entrances. A little bit of RTV took care of sealing those possible water entry points.

Where the real problem lies is with the connectors that were installed on the unit and on the motorhome itself, these are not water proof connections. I suppose I could have opted for taking the connector apart giving both parts a good helping of dialectric grease and putting them back together, but I opted for carefully sealing the connections with electrical tape.

The relay, that just hangs there, is also a sealed unit but the connector that plugs into is not, a little RTV around the wiring and electrical tape around the seam where the connectors meet will cure any water entry problems there.

The two ballast resistors are sealed units and had heat shrink over the electrical connections so there shouldn't be a water issue with them. If you look closely at them you will notice that they do have heat sinks attached to them and they will get hot, so if you do enclose the curt controller, I would advise either leaving them outside the enclosure of make sure you leave lots of room around them so a wire doesn't touch them and have the insulation melt causing a short. BTW, although it doesn't appear that way in the picture, there is plenty of clearance between the wiring and the ballast resistors.

As a short term solution, I opted for moving the bracket from the factory location just in front of the bumper to attaching it to the generator mounting bracket and using the generator itself as a spray shield.
Just got back from our maiden voyage. Left Wednesday morning and drove 250 miles through the rain, sometimes heavy, sometimes light but steady spray coming up off off the road. Never had a problem with the lights at all. Hopefully the changes I made solved the wet controller problem others have been having.
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Old 06-19-2016, 11:29 PM   #120
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Well "so far so good" was a fleeting sentiment. Unfortunately my second Curt controller failed this weekend and had to whip out my spare in order to drive home with brake lights and turn signals. When I installed the first replacement I "sealed" the unit and the connectors in plastic, granted the job wasn't super fantastic. Nevertheless, it lasted through quite a few miles of deluge. Interestingly it would appear the original Curt controller (the first one that failed) which has been sitting in my garage since last fall is working again. When I got home today, I plugged in the original briefly and everything seemed to work. I then plugged in #2 that failed this weekend and got the phantom light and no brakes/signals. So I went back to my spare (#3) for the time being. I may opt for the fully potted controller now and a better solution for sealing the controller and the connectors.
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