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Old 06-20-2016, 06:38 AM   #121
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So is it the location or the controller?

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Originally Posted by dukeboone View Post
Well "so far so good" was a fleeting sentiment. Unfortunately my second Curt controller failed this weekend and had to whip out my spare in order to drive home with brake lights and turn signals. When I installed the first replacement I "sealed" the unit and the connectors in plastic, granted the job wasn't super fantastic. Nevertheless, it lasted through quite a few miles of deluge. Interestingly it would appear the original Curt controller (the first one that failed) which has been sitting in my garage since last fall is working again. When I got home today, I plugged in the original briefly and everything seemed to work. I then plugged in #2 that failed this weekend and got the phantom light and no brakes/signals. So I went back to my spare (#3) for the time being. I may opt for the fully potted controller now and a better solution for sealing the controller and the connectors.
I realize most of our opinions are just that and not a true failure analysis - but are you convinced that the location and the presence of moisture is what is causing your failures? My guess is your "new" controller also got wet through the plastic bag? The "old" controller dried out and started working again.

This week I am working on moving mine to a weatherproof box, but leaving the relay and heat sink load resistors on the aluminum plate. The plate will be mounted to the cover of the weatherproof box so as to no longer be zip tied to the bumper. This way the resistors will not be trapped inside the box and transfer heat to the controller. The aluminum plate will also be a heat sink. I will carry a spare relay just in case and pack the terminals with dielectric grease (Dow Corning DC4). My thought it to use receptacle assemblies though the box so I don't have to re-wire anything.

Sure would be good to hear something from FR on a solution to this potential safety issue. They can expend resources on an improved pantry and do so very quickly, but something that really matters seems to take way too much time. Is it just me?
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Old 06-20-2016, 09:43 AM   #122
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With all the compliments, complaints, and suggestions we've upgraded our Curt controller. I'm waiting on our electrical engineer to get back with me on a model number and the differences. I will report back when I find out.


Edit*




The retail part number is Hopkins Tow Solutions part # 46370

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Old 06-20-2016, 11:39 AM   #123
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More information needed please

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Originally Posted by Joshua Cavitt View Post
With all the compliments, complaints, and suggestions we've upgraded our Curt controller. I'm waiting on our electrical engineer to get back with me on a model number and the differences. I will report back when I find out.


Edit*




The retail part number is Hopkins Tow Solutions part # 46370

It is good to know that FR is making some kind of change. I still have a couple of questions -

1. Is this a running change going forward?
2. Was the Curt controller issue due to location? In other words, did FR determine that it was not water/weatherproof and needed to be given the mounting on the rear bumper?
3. Is FR going to provide/sell an "upgrade" kit to owners with the Curt controller? While we certainly can buy the Hopkins controller ourselves, it does not appear that is is easily compatible with the Deutsch connectors already installed on many of our MBS motorhomes.

I would like to think that we will not be on our own to either weatherproof our Curt controllers or come up with some other solution with the Hopkins.
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Old 06-20-2016, 01:37 PM   #124
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1. Yes
2. No, in fact, our Electrical engineer took a controller and let it sit in water for a couple days and then cut it open with no internal water damage.
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Old 06-20-2016, 07:09 PM   #125
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What happened to response #3?

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Originally Posted by Joshua Cavitt View Post
1. Yes
2. No, in fact, our Electrical engineer took a controller and let it sit in water for a couple days and then cut it open with no internal water damage.
Can I assume from your edit of your response and deleting item number 3 - that FR is contemplating some sort of upgrade/retrofit kit for the hundreds of us with Curt controllers?

If FR is going to provide dealers with a retrofit kit from Curt to Hopkins for warranty claims, then one might assume such a kit would be available to the end users as well.
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Old 06-21-2016, 07:16 AM   #126
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Originally Posted by KatanaPilot View Post
Can I assume from your edit of your response and deleting item number 3 - that FR is contemplating some sort of upgrade/retrofit kit for the hundreds of us with Curt controllers?

If FR is going to provide dealers with a retrofit kit from Curt to Hopkins for warranty claims, then one might assume such a kit would be available to the end users as well.
Hopkins model 46370 is new according to customer support. It would have to be ordered from eTrailer, as it does not seem to be available anywhere else. It 'appears' it has the same or similar wiring to the CURT controller - 6 on one side, 4 on the other. It may be a relatively easy swap-out unless there will also be a change to the physical location.

Question: do you have to purchase the costly crimper in order to wire the Deutsch plugs ?
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Old 06-21-2016, 07:20 AM   #127
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Water intrusion into the Deutsch plug is what caused my tail/brake lights to stay on. Do we really want to keep that connector?
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Old 06-21-2016, 08:46 AM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KatanaPilot View Post
Can I assume from your edit of your response and deleting item number 3 - that FR is contemplating some sort of upgrade/retrofit kit for the hundreds of us with Curt controllers?

If FR is going to provide dealers with a retrofit kit from Curt to Hopkins for warranty claims, then one might assume such a kit would be available to the end users as well.
I didn't have a definitive answer for this and posted too soon. When I get a clearer answer I will get back to you.
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Old 06-22-2016, 11:42 AM   #129
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On my second controller. Curt tech rep states both controllers are good and problem is fr wiring on my 2016 2400ws. Controllers work perfect when operating rv, running lights are energized intermittently when parked and not running. Water not an issue as controller is sealed with box. Any help??
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Old 06-22-2016, 01:05 PM   #130
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The two power resistors are tie wrapped loosely to the metal plate and needs to be hard screwed to plate with heat sink compound applied between resistors and plate to be an acceptable heat sink. Current installation is useless for this purpose.
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