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Old 04-04-2016, 10:03 AM   #21
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My friend who just picked his up straight from the factory very recently - was installed in exact same place as mine / same method.


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Old 04-04-2016, 02:34 PM   #22
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This would be a great opportunity for FR to step up, acknowledge there is an issue, develop a fix (hopefully one that can be retrofitted) and provide that information to us.

For me, I like the idea of the pvc box, although in the interest of simplicity, I may just install weather pack connectors (I have some and they are waterproof) and spray the controller with Corrosion X.
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Old 04-07-2016, 09:17 AM   #23
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My 2014 24R does not have the CURT Controller. It has a fairly large circuit board located to the rear of the fresh water tank near the pump.

With the key set to on or position one my rear left turn signal only lights the center LED in both of the left fixtures . If I start the engine the left rear stops flashing and the remaining LEDs are very dim. Jumped power from the right light and all works well.


Has anyone replaced the circuit board with a CURT controller and if so did you replace the entire circuit board. Looks like the board does other things than just the tail and trailer lights.

Any info. would be appreciated.
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Old 04-07-2016, 10:03 AM   #24
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Problem solved! Found a partially blown10 amp fuse, replaced same and all is well. When I did the fuse continuity check it showed the fuse was good. On closer visual inspection I could see a slight discoloration of the strip. Apparently the fuse was producing high resistance with power demand.

Much relieved. Hope this info. may help others.
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Old 04-07-2016, 12:42 PM   #25
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Mike -Glad to hear you got it solved. Lots of discussion of the earlier (pre-Curt) module you and I have:
Running lights GONE
Someone came up with a slick "emergency fix" to get tail and running lights (if not towing a toad or trailer) - the most reported failure mode with the "old" module. He got a trailer plug and connected the power terminal to the running lights terminal (with a fuse). Vehicle running lights "on" when plugged in; have to unplug it to turn them off. I now carry a plug with me "just in case".
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Old 04-07-2016, 01:57 PM   #26
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Weatherproofing the Curt Controller ???

Has anyone made changes in an effort to weatherproof the controller and the various connections? My controller (model # S0601U-R1) looks to be pretty well sealed, but I'm sure it's not completely waterproof. I was thinking about putting it into a waterproof box, but there's very little space available in it's current location. The controller is about 2-1/4 by 3-3/4 by a bit less than an inch high (not counting the wires coming out of both ends). It's mounted on a metal plate with perhaps an extra inch in the height direction. I think it would be very difficult to find a box that would be big enough to hold the controller, but small enough to fit in the space.

I'm thinking of just covering all of the cracks and wire holes with some sort of sealant - maybe a caulk or a foam.

Has anyone found a box that fits? Or tried the sealant approach?

Thanks

Dave
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Old 04-07-2016, 01:59 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLeising View Post
Mike -Glad to hear you got it solved. Lots of discussion of the earlier (pre-Curt) module you and I have:
Running lights GONE
Someone came up with a slick "emergency fix" to get tail and running lights (if not towing a toad or trailer) - the most reported failure mode with the "old" module. He got a trailer plug and connected the power terminal to the running lights terminal (with a fuse). Vehicle running lights "on" when plugged in; have to unplug it to turn them off. I now carry a plug with me "just in case".
Thanks for the reminder on the emergency fix. I talked to Travis at FR today and he says the old stile modules are still available from FR, but must be ordered through a dealer. He also said you can't just replace the old with the new Curt due to a different wiring harness that is now used.

Hopefully this one will hold up for awhile.
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Old 04-07-2016, 03:04 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveJordan View Post

Has anyone found a box that fits? Or tried the sealant approach?
I was thinking about this box. Homedepot locally sells it for about the same price. You would have to cut open both sides a bit for the wires, then use a sealant.

Robot Check
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Old 04-07-2016, 04:36 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by nusslejj View Post
I was thinking about this box. Homedepot locally sells it for about the same price. You would have to cut open both sides a bit for the wires, then use a sealant.

Robot Check
I looked at that box - looks like the box is pretty waterproof - and thought about it some more. I've decided to skip the box and just try sealing things with a non-corrosive sealant. It seems like there are two problems with the box...first, I'm not sure it'll fit in the space available...and second, even if it does, you still have to seal where the wires go through the box.

I think I can apply a sealant over the line between the two halves of the Curt box and around each of the wire entry points...it should keep things dry...I hope.

Dave
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Old 04-07-2016, 07:18 PM   #30
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Dave. The number on the label (S0601U-R1) is simply a label that Curt uses, and has no significance with respect to the model of the taillight controller module. I learned this first by googling the number and getting junk, then searching Curt's website and getting nothing, and finally calling their tech support and speaking to a very fine man named "John" who explained they had no unit at that designation. It was a label name... He couldn't identify what my controller was at that time, although the following day he followed up with me to indicate that forest river outsources the connections. I was very impressed that he had gone to that much trouble! And now you know...the rest of the story! Grin
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