Curt taillight controller

[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by nusslejj

You really improved on the FR solution, and also did a great job documenting it with narrative and pictures !

I think FR should have laughed and said "try again" when the current wiring MESS was presented to them as a solution to the previous wiring design (which btw I hear was located inside the coach). I wouldn't let FR off the hook because someone 'else' designed it. It is after-all, their product and ultimately their decision how to do things.

I have one question now that I see the details of what we have to work with - since you had about 1' of slack in the wiring, what do you think about drilling a hole into the storage pod, and moving the components 'inside', and somehow protecting them within the storage area as opposed to a waterproof box on the 'greasy side' of the rv ? You would be able to comment better than anyone else (including FR).

Again, Great Job !

X2. Only bad part is now I have another project. Would like to use the MH more and work on it less.

Sure hope the FR folks that monitor this forum use this information as feedback for a potential running change to fix a known issue.

[Rkloud9]

We are presently in the final days of our first trip, and in the first 9 days it rained pretty much every day, sometimes "with a passion". About 2 days in the running lights started going on an off randomly (turn signals, brake lights still worked normally). This condition continued for about a week. When it got dry I covered the controller and connections with a heavy duty plastic bag and surrounded the whole mess with 2" wide Gorilla Tape. The flashing continued for another day or two, but all has been normal the last 3 days. It also has not rained. I will ask the dealer to replace the unit when we get back... Really like the repair shown in the previous posts.


Bob & Cynthia
2017 SunSeeker MBS 2400W
Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by KatanaPilot

X2. Only bad part is now I have another project. Would like to use the MH more and work on it less.

Sure hope the FR folks that monitor this forum use this information as feedback for a potential running change to fix a known issue.

Every day, twice on weekends

[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by bclemens

Every day, twice on weekends

Good to hear that. Please provide details to us owners when FR makes the change to the MBS chassis so we can properly modify our MH to prevent the failure - since it seems to be a given that the failure will occur.

[MNtraveler]

Originally Posted by Wrightwood

On our 2016 2401R the Curt controller and components were (poorly) zip tied to an aluminum plate just in front of rear bumper on the drivers side. The choice of location couldn't be worse for these components to stay dry.









Fortunately there was enough cable to move everything forward a foot or so and place inside a plastic box mounted under the rear corner basement storage area. (I always use stainless mounting screws and washers for any repairs or upgrades to the MH)



Used a piece of plastic cutting board material to mount the components after drilling and tapping. (one of my all time favorite materials to work with - buy the cutting board material at Sam's Club for $8 or $10. Heat resistant, drill it, tap it, sand it, file it or saw- great product to use). The Curt controller had to be zip tied to the plastic board as there were no mounting holes. Used a 1.25" fitting to get all the plugs and wires through. Easily tucked everything into box and held in place.

Cut a piece of 1/4" foam, wrapped and inserted around wires as a seal then used silicone for a final seal.

OMG no, that's probably where mine is! That's a very elegant solution. Thanks for posting this.


Land of 10,000 Lakes
2016 Forester MBS 2401R

[MNtraveler]

Originally Posted by A32Deuce

It is a shame the factory doesn't take the trouble to do this but having read here that they were sold a bill of goods by the curt salesman, it kind of explaines why it is how it is. You sound like a lot on the forum, see something can be changed/fixed do it!

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk

It's an explanation, but not an excuse. Notwithstanding the bogus demonstration by Curt, we still have a series of critical electrical components exposed to the elements on the underside of the chassis. We also have a key electrical component installed in contradiction to the manufacturer's written instructions. This truly should be a recall for all units affected. It is an unfortunate safety issue when turn signals, brake lights and/or taillights fail, and as shown in this very thread, this can happen without the driver knowing it. This means we could be driving down the highway in the dark of night with no taillights or brake lights and not know it.


Land of 10,000 Lakes
2016 Forester MBS 2401R

[KatanaPilot]

Trust, but verify.

It's the coach manufacturer's responsibility to make sure that components they install are suitable for the task. Specifications are one thing, but the coach manufacturer needs to insure that what they install will perform as designed - since they may not be installed per the component manufacturer's recommendations or the conditions the component will see (like road salt) may not have been properly tested.

So I hope there will be a running change implemented soon and we will be made aware of what that is.

Don't hold your breath on a recall, although I think if enough of us contacted NHTSA, it might encourage FR to re-engineer this installation.

[MNtraveler]

Yup, crawled under there today and that's where it is! 😱


Land of 10,000 Lakes
2016 Forester MBS 2401R

[Wrightwood]

Originally Posted by nusslejj

I have one question now that I see the details of what we have to work with - since you had about 1' of slack in the wiring, what do you think about drilling a hole into the storage pod, and moving the components 'inside', and somehow protecting them within the storage area as opposed to a waterproof box on the 'greasy side' of the rv ? You would be able to comment better than anyone else (including FR)

Yes it could be routed into either the rear driver side or rear center basement storage compartments. It would mean drilling a 1.25" - 1.5" hole into the plastic storage compartment, seal the entrance point and you'd still need to mount the components in a box to keep them from being tore apart by shifting equipment in the basement.

In addition to the components being subject to moisture, attaching brake and tail lighting electronics to a piece of aluminum with zip ties is not an acceptable manufacturing technique. As MNtraveler brings up, this is a driving safety issue. This is not a malfunctioning slide out or toilet.

[Wrightwood]

We received our MBS 2401R in Feb so it's possible during the delivery trip from the plant to California the RV was driven in rain. The RV has never been driven in the rain during the 1500 miles we've put on it.

My proactive mod was prompted by reading various posts about Curt taillight controller failures not because of a failure. After completing a simple mounting into a watertight electrical box the brake, turn and taillights all worked properly. (no stress was put on any wiring during the mod)

This past week while packing up and preparing to return home after a trip we did a brake, turn signal and taillight test and was surprised to see the taillights failed to come on. Fortunately the return trip home was during daylight hours.

After trouble shooting today I found that the brown output wire was intermittent just inside the Curt controller. Since it's a sealed assembly there's no way to get inside to make a repair. Ordered a new one on Amazon for $21 as I didn't want to waste time on getting it fixed or replaced under warranty.



So add another Curt taillight controller failure to the list.
This is indeed a safety issue that needs attention by FR!

[aspengirl]

Does anyone know where this controller is located on the 2012 Solera 24M? Our blinker, on the driver's side, blinks rapidly. There are no burned out bulbs, or fuses, and we've even had the Mercedes dealership look at it when we were there for another reason. They couldn't resolve the rapid blinking. Perhaps there is corrosion on the controller, and though my husband has looked for the controller, he has been unable to find it. If someone can lend some advice, it'd be greatly appreciated!!!

[Mikegjax]

You probably don't have a curt controller. On the 24R the light controller is in the same area as the water pump. It is a circuit board with several fuses. I had a light issue and it was a partially blown fuse.

[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by Wrightwood

We received our MBS 2401R in Feb so it's possible during the delivery trip from the plant to California the RV was driven in rain. The RV has never been driven in the rain during the 1500 miles we've put on it.

My proactive mod was prompted by reading various posts about Curt taillight controller failures not because of a failure. After completing a simple mounting into a watertight electrical box the brake, turn and taillights all worked properly. (no stress was put on any wiring during the mod)

This past week while packing up and preparing to return home after a trip we did a brake, turn signal and taillight test and was surprised to see the taillights failed to come on. Fortunately the return trip home was during daylight hours.

After trouble shooting today I found that the brown output wire was intermittent just inside the Curt controller. Since it's a sealed assembly there's no way to get inside to make a repair. Ordered a new one on Amazon for $21 as I didn't want to waste time on getting it fixed or replaced under warranty.



So add another Curt taillight controller failure to the list.
This is indeed a safety issue that needs attention by FR!

Don't hold your breath. There are clearly a lot of posts about this issue and there are a couple of FR folks that read this forum, but I haven't heard a peep from them acknowledging the problem nor indicating a redesign is in the works.

Bueller? Anyone?

[aspengirl]

Originally Posted by Mikegjax

You probably don't have a curt controller. On the 24R the light controller is in the same area as the water pump. It is a circuit board with several fuses. I had a light issue and it was a partially blown fuse.

Our water pump is under the bathroom sink which is in the back of our 24M. We have photos from that area and don't see a light controller there. I'm not saying it isn't there, I'm just saying we don't see it. How do you know if a fuse is partially blown? I didn't know there was such a thing.

[JLeising]

On our 2012 Solera "S", the control module (not a Curt) is accessed behind a panel in the sewer/water/electrical hookup compartment. Hidden behind a panel above the sewer lines, I believe.

[Mikegjax]

Originally Posted by aspengirl

Our water pump is under the bathroom sink which is in the back of our 24M. We have photos from that area and don't see a light controller there. I'm not saying it isn't there, I'm just saying we don't see it. How do you know if a fuse is partially blown? I didn't know there was such a thing.

The element in the fuse was open but touching. When a continuity test was performed it read good. Visually it looked ok. Put some current to it and it would heat up and open.
Rare occurrence, but has happened to me more than once over the years.

[nusslejj]

Originally Posted by KatanaPilot

Don't hold your breath. There are clearly a lot of posts about this issue and there are a couple of FR folks that read this forum, but I haven't heard a peep from them acknowledging the problem nor indicating a redesign is in the works.

Bueller? Anyone?

I am completely baffled how FR thought the Curt mounting solution was acceptable. I have used Curt controllers for years on different SUV's, but I have NEVER, and would NEVER mount it under the vehicle/outside. I mount them INSIDE.

Today I will be buying a spare, and the expensive connectors as well. Sometime this summer I will spend the hours required to move it INSIDE. There goes $59.16. It's a damn shame I have to do this to insure my family is safe in this vehicle.

Hey FR - THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE ! YOU HAVE TO DO A RECALL ! LET'S GET GOING ON A RECALL BEFORE SOMEONE GETS HURT !

[cousin01]

Originally Posted by aspengirl

Does anyone know where this controller is located on the 2012 Solera 24M? Our blinker, on the driver's side, blinks rapidly. There are no burned out bulbs, or fuses, and we've even had the Mercedes dealership look at it when we were there for another reason. They couldn't resolve the rapid blinking. Perhaps there is corrosion on the controller, and though my husband has looked for the controller, he has been unable to find it. If someone can lend some advice, it'd be greatly appreciated!!!

Rapidly blinking blinker indicator on the dash usually (used to?) mean a burned out bulb on that side.

fyi - on the 2011 and Soleras of that vintage the light control module is located behind a carpeted panel above the black and gray water panel.

usual failure mode is no running lights. failed relay on the board. not easily repairable without disassemble and de-soldering of the control board assembly.

[MNtraveler]

Originally Posted by Mikegjax

You probably don't have a curt controller. On the 24R the light controller is in the same area as the water pump. It is a circuit board with several fuses. I had a light issue and it was a partially blown fuse.

Mike, are you SURE that's the Curt controller? Did you look behind the rear fender? (I mean, if it says "Curt" in it, that's a dead giveaway!)


Land of 10,000 Lakes
2016 Forester MBS 2401R

[MNtraveler]

Question for the group: Does the Curt controller also run power to the lights for the 7-pin trailer connection, or are those wired separately to the RV electrical system?


Land of 10,000 Lakes
2016 Forester MBS 2401R