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Old 04-07-2016, 07:19 PM   #31
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The Curt unit number, as per Dukeboone is 56146.
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Old 04-08-2016, 07:45 AM   #32
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I think I can apply a sealant over the line between the two halves of the Curt box and around each of the wire entry points...it should keep things dry...I hope.Dave
Dave - what about extending the entire panel to the inside rear storage compartment ? I'm thinking there are maybe 10-12 wires you would have to extend. Install a rubber grommet into the bottom of the rear storage compartment tray - pass wires through in a protective sheathing and screw the same exact plate to the wall - facing the wall for protection. I think that is where FR should have put it - INSIDE THE RV.

I'll be going up to our 2015 24R this weekend and will scope it out to get an idea of the level of work and whether it makes any sense.

Jeff
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Old 04-08-2016, 07:56 AM   #33
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I'll be going up to our 2015 24R this weekend and will scope it out to get an idea of the level of work and whether it makes any sense.

Jeff[/QUOTE]
Jeff, on my 2014 24R the light controller (not CURT) is located out of the elements in the water tank/pump compartment just to the rear of the pump. Is your controller located in a different location? Just curious.
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:54 AM   #34
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Yes - the 'new' FR design using the CURT controller mounts it behind the rear bumper on the drivers side. It is exposed to the elements, and can easily get all the road debris and liquids the tires can throw up there. When FR decided to replace the controller with the CURT, they should have used the existing location - which I think is far better than outside, behind the bumper and in the path of road debris and water. The plate the CURT is mounted to does not shield it very well. This is a surprisingly bad design and I hope FR will correct it for new purchases.

In the meantime, we are all brainstorming the best solution. I'm leaning toward moving the CURT inside. A mini soldering torch, heat-shrink tubing, 4-5 colors of wire, and maybe 1-2 hours of labor should get it done.

I'll know more what I want to do this weekend.

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Old 04-08-2016, 03:24 PM   #35
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I think that is where FR should have put it - INSIDE THE RV.

I'll be going up to our 2015 24R this weekend and will scope it out to get an idea of the level of work and whether it makes any sense.

Jeff
Yeah, they probably should have put it inside. I think it's a bit of work to move it, but it could be done. The connections to my controller go through two Deutsch plugs / sockets, a six pin version on one side and a four pin version on the other. These connectors are available here:

Deutsch DT Series Connectors

One interesting possibility is that they sell the connectors pre-wired with arbitrarily long pig tails. You could buy two more plugs and two more sockets and get one side of each wired up with appropriately long wires, Run the wires to your desired location, attach the previously unconnected end of the wires to the appropriate connector, and just plug the controller in at it's new location. They'll even color coordinate the wires! (They're a bit pricey - the six pin connector goes for about $60 with 8 foot wires...)

Anyway, I'm still on the track of adding more sealant around the box. The box certainly appears to be pretty well sealed to begin with - I've got it off the motorhome and close inspection shows no gaps or openings. I suspect that the two halves of the case are glued together - no obvious way to get it apart.

Ah well.

Dave
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Old 04-08-2016, 03:36 PM   #36
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I think the combination of Jeff's and Dave's ideas is the best. Keeps the factory connectors intact, does not involve splicing and gets the "waterproof" Curt controller out of the elements.

Great brainstorming guys. I'd be working in this today, but I'm traveling down under for a few weeks. Most of the "caravans" down here are right hand drive Sprinter based. Very few designs with slide outs, but they do have a smaller shell placed on the chassis.
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Old 04-08-2016, 04:19 PM   #37
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Dave - that is a great find. Extending both with a pre-built 4-ping and 6-pin extension is a very good solution. I would bet you only need 3' or 4', which may cut the cost a bit.
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Old 04-21-2016, 12:40 PM   #38
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Remounting Curt controller

On our 2016 2401R the Curt controller and components were (poorly) zip tied to an aluminum plate just in front of rear bumper on the drivers side. The choice of location couldn't be worse for these components to stay dry.









Fortunately there was enough cable to move everything forward a foot or so and place inside a plastic box mounted under the rear corner basement storage area. (I always use stainless mounting screws and washers for any repairs or upgrades to the MH)



Used a piece of plastic cutting board material to mount the components after drilling and tapping. (one of my all time favorite materials to work with - buy the cutting board material at Sam's Club for $8 or $10. Heat resistant, drill it, tap it, sand it, file it or saw- great product to use). The Curt controller had to be zip tied to the plastic board as there were no mounting holes. Used a 1.25" fitting to get all the plugs and wires through. Easily tucked everything into box and held in place.

Cut a piece of 1/4" foam, wrapped and inserted around wires as a seal then used silicone for a final seal.



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Old 04-21-2016, 12:54 PM   #39
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It is a shame the factory doesn't take the trouble to do this but having read here that they were sold a bill of goods by the curt salesman, it kind of explaines why it is how it is. You sound like a lot on the forum, see something can be changed/fixed do it!

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Old 04-21-2016, 04:42 PM   #40
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Great work WrightWood !

You really improved on the FR solution, and also did a great job documenting it with narrative and pictures !

I think FR should have laughed and said "try again" when the current wiring MESS was presented to them as a solution to the previous wiring design (which btw I hear was located inside the coach). I wouldn't let FR off the hook because someone 'else' designed it. It is after-all, their product and ultimately their decision how to do things.

I have one question now that I see the details of what we have to work with - since you had about 1' of slack in the wiring, what do you think about drilling a hole into the storage pod, and moving the components 'inside', and somehow protecting them within the storage area as opposed to a waterproof box on the 'greasy side' of the rv ? You would be able to comment better than anyone else (including FR).

Again, Great Job !
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