Curt taillight controller

[ShermanD]

Originally Posted by Rich.M

Electrical problem originates at the Curt controller, part of the electrical system also used by trailer electrical. You can have a short due to water infiltration without towing.

I was crawling around under my 2017 Suseeker this afternoon. had to readjust the location of some wiring so I could install an extenda stay propane system. One shocking thing I did find is that when forest River splices wires they use those push on connectors. They usually aren't a problem when they are sealed properly. Trouble is the connectors they used are for interior dry locations and were never waterproofed. Tomorrows task will be getting out the tube of RTV and sealing every connector I can find underneath.

Water, Electricty, and copper wire lead to corrosion and future failure if not addressed.

[KatanaPilot]

Yesterday, I completed the Curt controller install in a weatherproof PVC box. Many thanks to a couple of the posters here who provided inspiration and ideas for my install.

I did something of a hybrid approach - the Curt controller inside the box and the load resistors and relay on the outside. I used Dow Corning DC-4 (dielectric grease) on all connections that might be susceptible to water intrusion. I kept the resistors on the outside of the box and mounted them to an aluminum plate (0.063 thick) as an additional heat sink - per the suggestion of one poster. The relay is supposed to be weatherproof, as is the connection, but I will carry a spare relay and it's about a 30 second replacement if it fails. I fabricated a small hangar for it and riveted it to the plate, as well.

I purchased a couple of Deutsch connectors (receptacles) and replaced the ends on the Curt controller with them. They are mounted through the weatherproof box and allow the factory (FR) wiring to connect to the controller without the risk of water getting through the box. This was a little more time consuming and expensive, but I think the results are pretty good.

I attached the entire assembly to the frame using high strength (175 lbs. each) cable ties passing through the aluminum plate I attached to the back of the PVC box. Although I would normally prefer to drill through and use bolts or sheet metal screws, I did not want to risk drilling into the FR frame extension. The box is protected aft of the BigFoot leveler and so I think the risk of damage to the box is very small.

Although I enjoyed fabricating the aluminum plates and enclosure, having to provide a fix for poor engineering and installation from FR really annoys me. I spend more time fixing defects, lousy build quality and bad design than camping. The line "it's part of the RV experience" wears a bit thin.

[nusslejj]

Originally Posted by KatanaPilot

Yesterday, I completed the Curt controller install in a weatherproof PVC box. Many thanks to a couple of the posters here who provided inspiration and ideas for my install...

WOW - GREAT WORK ! FR should hire you !

Two questions -

1. Did you have to purchase a crimper for the Deutsch connectors, and if so, did you go with an inexpensive one, or the expensive Deutsch crimper ?

2. Where did you get the connector mounts attached to the box - were they fabricated ?

Great job ! Now I have my work cut out for me !
Jeff

[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by nusslejj

WOW - GREAT WORK ! FR should hire you !

Two questions -

1. Did you have to purchase a crimper for the Deutsch connectors, and if so, did you go with an inexpensive one, or the expensive Deutsch crimper ?

2. Where did you get the connector mounts attached to the box - were they fabricated ?

Great job ! Now I have my work cut out for me !
Jeff

You are one of the folks that motivate me to get this stuff done! And FR can't afford me

1. Didn't need a crimper at all. Simply removed the pins from the factory Deutsch connector and installed them into the new Deutsch receptacle. The pins remove very easily once you remove the rubber plug that is installed in the pin end of the connector.

If I get a spare Curt controller, I will want to install pins on it for easy replacement on the road - so I will see if my weatherpack crimper will work, or will buy one that does. I'm a tool hound, so I usually go for the better tool if I can afford it.

2. I bought the flange mount receptacles here
They are a Deutsch part - only fabrication is drilling and cutting the appropriate sized opening in the PVC box. There are templates on the Batts Racing website for each of these connectors.

The aluminum plates were done really as an excuse to work on some of my sheet metal skills. I'm building an airplane, so I need to practice on as much non-critical fabrication as I can.

[KatanaPilot]

Attached is a picture looking aft from in front of the BigFoot stabilizer.

The second picture is of a couple of harnesses of unknown function. Judging by the location and the color of the wires, I assume this is the interface from the MB factory tow package wiring to the FR wiring for the Curt controller, taillights and tow harness. So just to be safe, I disconnected them and packed them full of dielectric grease, too.

[Philrisl]

Kahana pilot,
Nice job! I just had to replace the Curtis controller on my newly acquired 2015 Solera as the right directional and brake light wasn't working. Wish I had the time to enclose it but we are leaving on a two month trip. Instead I replaced it with the Hopkins unit.
I saw you are building an airplane. With the quality you showed with this modification you should do great on an airplane! My wife and I are working on our 7th homebuilt. Oshkosh is on our trip itinerary as we have been there for the last 30 plus years.

[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by Philrisl

Kahana pilot,
Nice job! I just had to replace the Curtis controller on my newly acquired 2015 Solera as the right directional and brake light wasn't working. Wish I had the time to enclose it but we are leaving on a two month trip. Instead I replaced it with the Hopkins unit.
I saw you are building an airplane. With the quality you showed with this modification you should do great on an airplane! My wife and I are working on our 7th homebuilt. Oshkosh is on our trip itinerary as we have been there for the last 30 plus years.

If you are wandering around Camp Scholler and see a Forester MBS with a silver Honda Fit in tow with Florida plates, stop in and say hello.

I'm building an RV-10 and it's my first homebuilt. Big project, but we live in an airport community and there is lots of expertise here.

[Philrisl]

We will be in the ultralight camping from Friday before the show until the end. Solara towing a red Harley Electra glide Ultra. Touch base at floatfly0(at)gmail.com

[Philrisl]

Where are you located in Florida? I am in Deltona, fly out of Deland (DED).

[KatanaPilot]

We live in Destin and also have a home south of Atlanta on a fly-in community.

[KatanaPilot]

Upon replacement of a backup bulb - which was intact but the base was severely corroded - I discovered another potential failure point in the taillights. The wires that feed the taillights are routed through holes that were drilled (I assume an annular cutter, not a drill) through a metal square tube. The edges that were left were rough and are a good place for the wires to chafe, short or ground out. I filed down the edges and installed a rubber grommet to protect the wires. You may want to check yours, as well.

[Mikegjax]

I had put mine in plastic conduit when I discoverd the samem

[Polariste]

I just replaced the Curt controller on our Sunseeker MBS 2016 with the model Tekonsha, Modulate HD Plus model 119191. This model is patted (circuit in epoxy resin). Since I am new at this, I just want to make sure that my lights are working fine.

When you turn your lights on do all four lights are turned on?
When you hit the brakes do all four lights go on?
When you use the flasher the two lights are flashing (same side).

I don't remember how they were working before this is why I am asking the questions. One thing that got me to question my work is a label that was attached to the unit (see picture).
Can anyone help me with this? Thank you.
__________________

[dukeboone]

Originally Posted by Polariste

When you turn your lights on do all four lights are turned on?
When you hit the brakes do all four lights go on?
When you use the flasher the two lights are flashing (same side).

Yes, the running lights illuminate all four red lights as do the brakes and hazard lights. The turn signal illuminates the two on side. HTH

Cheers

[rkreusel]

Joshua ..... any updates regarding an upgrade kit? My unit failed and was replaced with the same unit. I have protected it somewhat (sealed in a freezer bag and taped up out of the way) and gone through several heavy rain and puddle situations without it failing again. But, I am worried that it may fail again. Wondering if you may have more info from FR about this. Thanks!

[Polariste]

Thank you Dukeboon, I will sleep better tonight!

[rkreusel]

Received following email two days ago from the NHTSB: (Looks like FR is shooting for a beginning recall date of August 18th.) Thanks to all of you who filed reports with the NHTSB - FR really left us no choice!

RECALL Subject : Rear Light Failure due to Water Intrusion

Report Receipt Date: JUN 27, 2016
NHTSA Campaign Number: 16V465000
Component(s): EXTERIOR LIGHTING
Potential Number of Units Affected: 1,999

All Products Associated with this Recall

Details

4 Associated Documents

Manufacturer: Forest River, Inc.
SUMMARY:

Forest River, Inc. (Forest River) is recalling certain model year 2015-2017 Forester motorhomes manufactured June 10, 2014, to May 25, 2016, Sunseeker motorhomes manufactured April 4, 2014, to May 25, 2016, 2015-2016 Solera motorhomes manufactured February 28, 2014, to September 17, 2015, and 2016 Isata motorhomes manufactured October 30, 2015, to May 26, 2016. Water may leak into the electrical module that controls the vehicle taillights, brake lights, turn signal lights, clearance lights and marker lights, making the lights inoperative. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 108, "Lamps, Reflective Devices, and Associated Equipment." CONSEQUENCE:

If the rear brake lights fail to illuminate, following motorists may not realize that the vehicle in front of them is stopping. Inoperative taillights, clearance lights and marker lights will make the vehicle less visible to others. Either condition can increase the risk of a crash. REMEDY:

The remedy for this recall is still under development. The recall is expected to begin August 18, 2016. Forester, Solera, and Sunseeker owners may contact Forest River customer service at 1-574-206-7600. Isata customers should call 1-574-262-3474. Forest River's number for this recall is 51-06012016-0206. NOTES:

Owners may also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to Home | Safercar -- National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA).

[KatanaPilot]

Thanks for being persistent and being concerned for our safety.

Of course, now I've protected our controller in a weatherproof box and hopefully won't have any issues.

I'll be curious to see the fix developed.

[Polariste]

Finally, a solution to our problems, a little late but better than never. I just can't wait to see the solution to this common problem. I fixed mine last week but I still have to install a splash guard in front of this aluminium plate.

[bclemens]

I still don't think water is the root cause. If it was, a water proof box would have been an easy fix. I think in testing, we had some fail before they ever got off the line (chalked it up to bad parts). Until I see all the data, it appears that maybe the Curt controller had issues, cracked and let water in (which may expedite the failure)...I anticipate the fix will be a different controller and maybe install location to be safe.