Curt taillight controller

[nusslejj]

Originally Posted by nusslejj

That would be one reason why I would purchase it directly from FR.

Thanks,
Jeff

I guess I never looked for a Motorhome VIN. Where do I find it ?

Thanks !

[nusslejj]

Originally Posted by DaveJordan

A couple of things...

First, the Curt controller looks essentially identical to the controller on my 2015 24R, which is included in the recall. The controller looks right and the way it's mounted to the metal plate looks right, and the ancillary bits - resistors, wiring, etc. - all look right. I'd be more than surprised if someone other than the factory did the installation.

That said, however, I did check the chassis VIN number against mine and it appears that your chassis, at least, is earlier than mine. Do you have the motorhome VIN number (should be something like "4X4MDSZ22FFxxxxxx")?

Dave

I agree - it is 'highly unlikely' someone would have gone to the effort to change from the old 'inside' model to the 'outside' bumper model. I called the dealer and the previous owner - it never happened.

I looked on the Hopkins website, and they have no such 311-0041-154 model listed or searchable. I'm trying to get in touch with a 'good' FR Dealer to get the FR price. Probably won't be able to get one, as they are likely allocating them all for customers that have good FR documentation that says they have a curt controller. I'm apparently not one of them.

[nusslejj]

I know a FR dealer about 5 hours from home that is top-flight - great prices, great service, and calls me back right away. He just told me that if I'm not currently having an issue with the CURT controller, that the best thing we can do to avoid the problem entirely is relatively simple -

1. Take both plugs apart and FILL them with dielectric grease.
2. Spray liquid electrical tape around the wires that enter the curt controller - on both sides.

He says he has had a number of failures come in for service. The plugs and/or the area where the wires enter the sides of the controller get shorted out with water and ruin the controller. FR has it wedged so tight against the bumper that it can pull the wires/plugs apart. Because it is practically behind the rear wheel, it will get very wet.

Liquid electrical tape and dielectric grease are cheap and easy to find.

[nusslejj]

I just received an update from FR - the original build-sheet indicates my unit was built with the new-style combiner - apparently mine was a prototype... gee, great...

They will ship me the new style combiner at no charge, and want the old one back (they can have it ).

Jeff

[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by nusslejj

I have a 2015 Solera 24R with the Curt tail-light controller. I did not get a recall notice, so I called FR and have been exchanging emails and phone conversations. I purchased the unit 1-year old, and verified that no work was done on the tail-light module by the previous owner.

FR tells me that it came with an 'older' design (not) according to their records, and so it would not be part of the recall. However, they cannot produce information that says anyone changed anything !

FR also cannot tell me where they painted it, as I have been asking where to get touch-up paint. Their records indicate a paint-shop that did not paint my FR, as the paint codes are not from that paint shop.

It is clear that for whatever reason FR does not have good records on my unit, but they are trusting their records that I don't have a CURT Controller, or some 'rogue' dealer installed it.

FR Quote: "I’ve talked to several people about this. That coach was supposed to come with the old style converter with the fuse panel. I have no notes in our system showing that we instructed the a dealer to put the taillight module on the back bumper. Therefore the original owner must have had the coach retrofitted with this. So this coach will not be added under the recall because this coach is supposed to have the old style converter. The older style converter is not a part of the recall. You are more than welcome to order the new Hopkins converter from your nearest authorized dealer."

The attached URL shows a picture the CURT controller that came with my 24R.

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AthDbJ0kaDaPi30ghLy4PsoHUhcI

Does anyone know exactly what model Hopkins converter is being used, as it appears FR's poor paperwork on my unit is going to force me to fix it myself, and that really pisses me off !

That a first class Berkshire-Hathaway owned company like Forest River, with their best-in-class quality control, process control and configuration documentation control - can't determine which controller you have.

[nusslejj]

Don't ask me how I got it, but I got it. I was told that I have to return the old one (don't know why).

Now to figure out the best way to mount it. I'm not going to mount it on that blasted aluminum plate wedged into such a tight area. I'm leaning toward an earlier post that used a plastic work-box screwed in the vicinity of the original location - on the greasy side of the RV. I could cut a notch in the top of the workbox under the lid, then re-seal the notch. That would certainly be much easier than cutting a 1 1/2" hole in the side and then trying to seal it up again.

Once I land on a final design (based on some very good work by others), I'll post it.

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AthDbJ0kaDaPjAP1ygIzpSgKbh8n

[Rari]

It is clear to me there needs to be a lawsuit here. I cant get anyone to fix mine and I cant use my RV because of no lights. I suspect if enough people contacted a lawyer this might be fixed. As for me I want another unit that can replace this one , maybe a Chevy duramax. This is unacceptable.!

[nusslejj]

Originally Posted by Rari

It is clear to me there needs to be a lawsuit here. I cant get anyone to fix mine and I cant use my RV because of no lights. I suspect if enough people contacted a lawyer this might be fixed. As for me I want another unit that can replace this one , maybe a Chevy duramax. This is unacceptable.!

Call the FR Tech Support folks and plead your case. They should send you one. Fairly easy to swap the two if you want to mount it the same way. I suspect the formal solution will be just that - swap the Curt Controller with the new controller.

One thing I have learned from this process - if you are fortunate enough to have a good dealer within driving distance, consider yourself very very lucky. This is not just a FR issue, it is industry-wide (unless you buy a Prevost or a Monaco).

[Rich.M]

Yes very easy swap if they can send you the replacement with the pig tails attached. Literally 2 screws and 2 zip ties. 15 minutes or less.

[nusslejj]

Originally Posted by Rich.M

Yes very easy swap if they can send you the replacement with the pig tails attached. Literally 2 screws and 2 zip ties. 15 minutes or less.

In can confirm they do send a complete unit - pigtails installed.

[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by nusslejj

In can confirm they do send a complete unit - pigtails installed.

I recall one of the FR reps on this forum telling us the issue is not necessarily moisture related and that the Curt controller installed by FR was promoted by Curt as being weatherproof. I took that to mean that FR really did not have a handle on the root cause of the issue triggering the recall.

That all being said, do we know for sure that the Hopkins controller being sent out as a replacement solves the issue?

My gut tells me that either unit needs to be located outside of the path of tire spray - ideally in a weatherproof enclosure.

[A32Deuce]

The controller isn't the only problem. Some had a relay fill with water and others had connecters with the seals missing. I think placement of it all is the problem. Remove from outside the vehicle.

[nusslejj]

I'm in the process of relocating the controller/relay/etc. with the new controller. I plan on locating a new waterproof box tomorrow. The problem I see is the wire bundle is about 12" long, and has a 'Y' in it. Ideally I'd like to pull it up into the rear storage area of my 24R and mount the box to the wall, but I do not see an easy path to doing so. I know it originates from above the bumper, but it is a very tight, inaccessible location.

The big relay is an issue for relocation, as it does not appear to come apart, and the base would require a large hole to be drilled in the rear storage pod. If I didn't have the relay to thread through a small hole, I still have the 'Y' to take apart, and don't want to disturb any more than I need to.

I suspect I'll be mounting the box to the bottom of the storage pod - not ideal, but will still work fine.

I agree that it all should be 'inside' the RV, and wonder why FR decided to move it from where the older version was - in a more idea location.

Here is a picture of my work-in-progress -
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AthDbJ0kaDaPjAfA8hjLRrn36LB0

[photo35man]

Nussiejj

Hi
Still have not had my unit repaired yet but I was wondering where you purchased that water-tight box. If you could please give me the link or the name of the company that makes that box, I would appreciate it.

I am going to try to get FR to send me the replacement unit and then have my dealer install it in the box once I purchase one.

Thasnks again
Bill

[kysunseekermbs]

It is a 6x6 pvc electrical conduit box and lid that you can get from lowes - Home Depot. It is in the electrical / conduit aisle.


2016 Sunseeker W MBS

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[nusslejj]

Originally Posted by photo35man

Nussiejj

Hi
Still have not had my unit repaired yet but I was wondering where you purchased that water-tight box. If you could please give me the link or the name of the company that makes that box, I would appreciate it.

I am going to try to get FR to send me the replacement unit and then have my dealer install it in the box once I purchase one.

Thasnks again
Bill

I got this box and grid from Amazon. It is a bit larger than the Home-Depot style box, a bit more expensive, and the grid makes it easier to mount the components, then screw it into the base.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by photo35man

Nussiejj

Hi
Still have not had my unit repaired yet but I was wondering where you purchased that water-tight box. If you could please give me the link or the name of the company that makes that box, I would appreciate it.

I am going to try to get FR to send me the replacement unit and then have my dealer install it in the box once I purchase one.

Thasnks again
Bill

If you read back over the entire thread, you will find several "repairs" done by members to try and eliminate, or at least mitigate, the issue caused by moisture, a defective controller, poor location or whatever the root cause(s) may be.

I am still using the original Curt controller in a weatherproof PVC box, with some fabricated aluminum parts as shown in my post here

My "solution" was a hybrid approach based on the great work of several other posters in this thread.

[sailski]

After reading a few of these threads and receiving the new Hopkins controller. I relocated everything attached to the aluminum plate into a outside compartment above on my 2401W. It was fairly simple to disconnect the components and remove the screws holding the mounting plate. Drill a hole through the floor in the compartment and thread the wiring through. Fasten the plate inside the compartment and remount the components. Then fill the hole with black exterior expanding foam.
Now water can't get in and screw things up again.

[SSmbs]

Sailski
Are you talking about the compartment where the Dyson is located? Did you have to put an extension on the wiring harness?

[photo35man]

Thank to all who replyed to my question on the water tight plastic box. As stated I am still waiting for FOREST RIVER to come up with the solution or the parts for this repair.

Sailski

I too would like to know if you are talking about the compartment where the DYSON was located and if you had to extend the wiring. If I go ahead with this modification and have a tech do the work it would be great to know any further details / pictures of your modification.

Thanks again to all
Bill