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Old 05-18-2016, 07:13 AM   #11
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I notice that everything in your post is based on measured battery voltage, which is not a good method of determining battery state of charge. My bet is that you have some bad batteries since you do get 14.1 when driving, which should push some charge into them, but clearly you don't have good battery capacity.

That being said, your converter should give you more than 13.6. After plugging in for days you had 8 volts...that is not a good sign.

Cigarette lighter connectors are notorious for heating and they have far less amperage capacity than most think. They get hot all the time since they don't connect all that well. I do wonder why the TV was drawing all that much current to melt the plug. as others have said, it is more than likely unrelated to your battery problem.

Losing .05 volts every two hours is indicative of either a large current draw or batteries that have little capacity. Remember when you measure the voltage of a battery after resting for a while it is somewhat indicative of the state of charge of the battery but says absolutely nothing about the remaining capacity of the unit to supply current. Sounds like yours have little capacity left.
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Old 05-18-2016, 07:27 AM   #12
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One more thing- to consider-
All the above suggestions are good.

The hourly drop in voltage MIGHT also be your refrigerator drain.
Some refers on LP mode also have an "environmental heater" that is
supposed to warm the strip of metal between the freezer door and fresh food
doors. This heater is typically 12v powered.
There has been much discussion here about this.
Some refers have the heater AND a switch to shut it off.
Some have the heater and no option to shut it off.
Some don't have the heater at all.
If you have the heater it is a battery hog and needs to be shut off or disconnected when boon docking.

Good luck!
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Old 05-18-2016, 10:07 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by flocktothewall View Post
The plug melting just happened. My assumption is that it was the higher voltage.

If not what would cause a plug to overheat like that? Vibration down the road? It's a cigarette plug that the tv is powered by - would road vibrations cause a short or something like that?
The 12 volt TV wall plug is, pardon me, a piece of crap. You can call the company, tell them it melted, they'll be all apologetic, and then they'll send you another piece of crap wall plug.

I suggest that you find a heavier duty plug - maybe something like this:
Amazon.com: K40 K403CBPP 2-Wire 15A 3-Pin CB Power Cord with 12V Cigarette Lighter Plug: Automotive
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Old 05-18-2016, 10:47 AM   #14
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[QUOTE=Rich.M;1198263]A typical evening with refridge on propane, led lights 4 hours, brief pump use and 2 hours fantastic fan will usually draw us down from 12.7-8 to 12.3-4. Your batteries should not be dead overnight. /QUOTE]


Our typical night is fridge on propane. That's it. Flashlights all around. And the batteries die. My DW was thrilled we went from roughing it to - still roughing it - not using the lights and all.

Thanks all for the valuable feedback. I think now the tv plug was unrelated and just coincidental. I was able to pull the plug apart and the fuse inside had blown, but it must have just keep my getting current. That happened once in my truck - I'll attribute it to a bad plug and replace with a better one.

I don't have an ammeter yet so I can't measure amperage draw but I plan on getting one to see what the draw is while its "resting" and go fuse by fuse to see what vampires I have.

Our Dometic Fridge has very little options. On/off and auto/gas. No other switches. I've seen on other posts in this forum it draws anywhere from .25 1 amp/hour.

Last night after our 4 hour road trip home the batteries measure at 12.8 but as soon as I turned one LED light on they dropped to 12.4 and quickly dropped .01v every few seconds.
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Old 05-18-2016, 11:03 AM   #15
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[QUOTE=flocktothewall;1198442]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich.M View Post
A typical evening with refridge on propane, led lights 4 hours, brief pump use and 2 hours fantastic fan will usually draw us down from 12.7-8 to 12.3-4. Your batteries should not be dead overnight. /QUOTE]


Our typical night is fridge on propane. That's it. Flashlights all around. And the batteries die. My DW was thrilled we went from roughing it to - still roughing it - not using the lights and all.

Thanks all for the valuable feedback. I think now the tv plug was unrelated and just coincidental. I was able to pull the plug apart and the fuse inside had blown, but it must have just keep my getting current. That happened once in my truck - I'll attribute it to a bad plug and replace with a better one.

I don't have an ammeter yet so I can't measure amperage draw but I plan on getting one to see what the draw is while its "resting" and go fuse by fuse to see what vampires I have.

Our Dometic Fridge has very little options. On/off and auto/gas. No other switches. I've seen on other posts in this forum it draws anywhere from .25 1 amp/hour.

Last night after our 4 hour road trip home the batteries measure at 12.8 but as soon as I turned one LED light on they dropped to 12.4 and quickly dropped .01v every few seconds.
When you measured voltage right after a road trip, that could just be surface charge, not reflecting the true charge state of the battery. You have to wait a while for that. Unless you had the alternator disconnected from the battery, but then it wouldn't have charged up to 12.8.

Battery State of Charge Using a Voltmeter | All About Lead Acid Batteries

Battery Specific Gravity Test: Battery Hydrometer Test
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:04 PM   #16
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The Jensen TV plug melting is an known issue, I replaced with a more heavy duty plug end. Nothing to do with voltage, it is just a POS.

The WFCO to PD9200 must have been a running change in 2015 models since luckily, I got the PD9200. I say this since the WFCO was not nice to the battery in my old RPOD.
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Old 05-18-2016, 04:01 PM   #17
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The strip of metal between the freezer and fresh food door will feel warm
to the touch if you have the battery sucking heater.
If it's cold and damp you don't have the heater.
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Old 05-18-2016, 05:43 PM   #18
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Back to the fridge...if you have a Dometic, do this easy mod. I did and it made a difference (still sounds like your batteries are toast though - water them up lately?)




http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/domet...ls-291269.html
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Old 05-19-2016, 09:57 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khocke View Post
Back to the fridge...if you have a Dometic, do this easy mod. I did and it made a difference (still sounds like your batteries are toast though - water them up lately?)




http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/domet...ls-291269.html
Is the dehumidifier on Dometic frigs used on the MBS chassis. Is, there a way to tell by model number, etc.
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Old 05-19-2016, 10:07 AM   #20
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If you have the heater- you can tell simply by putting your finger on the
strip of metal between the freezer and fresh food doors.
If it's warm you have the heater.
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