Electrical/12v issues.

[flocktothewall]

I just want to say thanks for all the help and guidance. Im amazed at how much knowledge it takes to own an RV. My head is still kind of spinning.

From what I gather I've solved #1 and #3 in that I splurged today and got a hydrometer. After letting the batteries sit from a charge my voltage meter read 12.62 but in testing the gravity of the batteries. 3 cells registered zero charge.

So I've concluded that the capacity had been greatly reduced and that's why we don't get to enjoy the simple pleasures we bought the coach for.

#3 seems to be related to a faulty or cheep plug and is soon to be replaced by a heavier duty one.

#2 - the WFCO controller rather than the PD 9200 is still a question and why it never enters "boost mode" is yet to be answered except perhaps because the batteries were faulty. I don't know. I'll look into that after I change the batteries.

I'm going to look into Katanapilots idea of upping the battery size to group 31. Solar is for sure in our future as well.

I'm still looking into the fridge heater. That whole post felt like Alice and Wonderland and the rabbit hole to me.

[KatanaPilot]

One of the reasons my batteries died is because of the poor crimps performed at the factory on one of the battery cables. So once you have all the batteries out of the battery box, give a tug on the terminal ends to make sure they are attached properly.

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by flocktothewall

I just want to say thanks for all the help and guidance. Im amazed at how much knowledge it takes to own an RV. My head is still kind of spinning.

From what I gather I've solved #1 and #3 in that I splurged today and got a hydrometer. After letting the batteries sit from a charge my voltage meter read 12.62 but in testing the gravity of the batteries. 3 cells registered zero charge. Attachment 108393

So I've concluded that the capacity had been greatly reduced and that's why we don't get to enjoy the simple pleasures we bought the coach for.

#3 seems to be related to a faulty or cheep plug and is soon to be replaced by a heavier duty one.

#2 - the WFCO controller rather than the PD 9200 is still a question and why it never enters "boost mode" is yet to be answered except perhaps because the batteries were faulty. I don't know. I'll look into that after I change the batteries.

I'm going to look into Katanapilots idea of upping the battery size to group 31. Solar is for sure in our future as well.

I'm still looking into the fridge heater. That whole post felt like Alice and Wonderland and the rabbit hole to me.

A coupe things; 1. your WFCO is fine, it was your batteries not allowing it to "complete" the charging cycle. Suggest you search and read up on three stage chargers, of which your WFCO in one. 2. Since you "splurged" $15 bucks for the specific gravity battery tester that showed you your problem in the end, there is no need for a NASA control panel for the occasional dry camping you may do from time to time. Buy a plug-in 12V voltage display like this one
LED Auto Car Truck Cigarette Lighter Volt Voltage Meter Monitor Tester 12V 24V | eBay , search for one that looks decent (four stage are bunk). When you get it, calibrate it against the new fully charged bats your obviously going to buy. 3. Unless MBS Sprinter chassis models have increased the stairwell box, forget about group 31 bats, unless you want to modify the space. 4. look into portable solar units, as they may fit your needs, unless you really plan on going off the grid. 5. download a 12V charge schedule for batteries so you know when you're close the the 50% discharge limit. Glad to have you aboard. Safe camping.

[Rich.M]

Group 31 AGM will fit without modification. Just watch the dimensions of the brand you select. Duracell grp 31 AGM at Sams fit my unit. Ista is using the grp 31 agm in the same battery box. Good luck and happy camping.

[Rkloud9]

Hey StillKicken! Thanks for the informative posts! Before I pop for the $200 monitor, I will try your approach. I have been thinking about the portable solar panel idea, as our coach came with a Zamp-ready plug. The portable 100 watt panel and controller kit they sell is over $500, but folds in half, is pretty much "plug and play", and would allow us to park in the shade. Do you think it is worth the price?


Bob & Cynthia
2017 SunSeeker MBS 2400W
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[ScottBrownstein]

Of course, StillKicken is right. You can get a low cost voltage meter for a couple of bucks. It will tell you that the converter is working and that the engine is charging your house bank and other things. Of course, it is only putting numbers on what your LED panel lights can already tell you but requires less interpretation that using the lights.

Solar is the way to go for long term charge management.

[bob dirt]

You don't have to buy the Zamp panel. You could built your own probably for less. The connection on your coach is the same one Battery Tender uses and cords and extensions are available all over the net. I bought the Zamp 120w setup because of the convenience. I store it in it's case on the floor between the foot of my bed and the wall when traveling. I haven't needed to charge my batteries yet when camping even when using the heat at night.

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

Of course, StillKicken is right. You can get a low cost voltage meter for a couple of bucks. It will tell you that the converter is working and that the engine is charging your house bank and other things. Of course, it is only putting numbers on what your LED panel lights can already tell you but requires less interpretation that using the lights.

Solar is the way to go for long term charge management.

ScottB, I have found that a chart along with the plug-in12 volt socket meter (after graduating it to a known full charge) which displays in tenths, for all practical purposes, is much more accurate than my four light idiot panel.

RKclound9; On solar, i'd let others who have gone portable, speak to that topic. Just sayin'

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by Rich.M

Group 31 AGM will fit without modification. Just watch the dimensions of the brand you select. Duracell grp 31 AGM at Sams fit my unit. Ista is using the grp 31 agm in the same battery box. Good luck and happy camping.

Good to know, thanks. I wonder if apples to apples, AGM's in their respective group size to lead acids' have in some instances, smaller overall case size. Never thought to compare.

[MNtraveler]

Originally Posted by flocktothewall

I just want to say thanks for all the help and guidance. Im amazed at how much knowledge it takes to own an RV. My head is still kind of spinning.

From what I gather I've solved #1 and #3 in that I splurged today and got a hydrometer. After letting the batteries sit from a charge my voltage meter read 12.62 but in testing the gravity of the batteries. 3 cells registered zero charge.

Nothing like a definitive test result to give clear direction on what to do!

[flocktothewall]

Originally Posted by Rich.M

Group 31 AGM will fit without modification. Just watch the dimensions of the brand you select. Duracell grp 31 AGM at Sams fit my unit. Ista is using the grp 31 agm in the same battery box. Good luck and happy camping.

Just picked up the same batteries from Sams Club today. Got a new 12v plug coming in the mail from Jenson.

[Rich.M]

It's a tight squeeze , need to slide the first battery in all the way over and bring the loosened strap around the 1st corner before second battery in. They do fit, but I haven't tried to get them out.

[flocktothewall]

Originally Posted by KatanaPilot

One of the reasons my batteries died is because of the poor crimps performed at the factory on one of the battery cables. So once you have all the batteries out of the battery box, give a tug on the terminal ends to make sure they are attached properly.

Wouldn't ya know it? I barely pull it and it came right out.

[KatanaPilot]

Originally Posted by flocktothewall

Attachment 108487
Wouldn't ya know it? I barely pull it and it came right out.

Good to see process control is alive and well at FR.

[flocktothewall]

UPDATE: Bought new group 27 batteries after this thread. All worked well. Now after a few months the batteries will only show 12.48 volts after being plugged into shore power for weeks.

The converter WFCO 2855 shows 13.52 volts to the battery but yet they won't get above 12.48.

I called my dealers tech support like and the RV tech said don't worry about it that is an adequate charge.

Any Input?

[MNtraveler]

12.48V is roughly 90% charged. The >13V charging current is to push the charge in. The battery will never go to that level. See chart.






Land of 10,000 Lakes
2016 Forester MBS 2401R
Nights camped 2016: 29; RV to date: 32

[Flybob]

A fully charged battery ( after some rest) is shown below.


Approximate state-of-charge \Average Open circuit voltage

specific gravity
100% 1.265 12.65
75% 1.225 12.45
50% 1.19 12.24
25% 1.155 12.06
0% 1.12 11.89

[kysunseekermbs]

Originally Posted by flocktothewall

I just want to say thanks for all the help and guidance. Im amazed at how much knowledge it takes to own an RV. My head is still kind of spinning.


.

So true! I have friends regularly ask if they can rent it and I tell them it would take a two day class and then I would have to provide 24hr phone support. Some things we learn by breaking them first!


2016 Sunseeker W MBS

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[Mikegjax]

Originally Posted by kysunseekermbs

So true! I have friends regularly ask if they can rent it and I tell them it would take a two day class and then I would have to provide 24hr phone support. Some things we learn by breaking them first!


2016 Sunseeker W MBS

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

Just say NO!!!!

[flocktothewall]

My concern is that the batteries no longer reach a voltage above 12.48 volts. Even after being charged for weeks.

So I'm effectively only getting 80% out of them.

The question I ask is where or what is causing that? Converter is charging why wouldn't batteries charge? I have a hydrometer and no cells are bad... defective battery or something else?